Nissanman

...and also here.

Image is misleading, non-representative and otherwise ZIP to do with the advertised item:finger: The 260Z has a simple cartridge insert, all that other claptrap belongs elsewhere:ermm:

From these pics. the valve cover hose connects to a "T" piece adjacent the Air Regulator valve: -

Body sealer does not a mechanical joint make. If there is panel flex happening, that needs to be remedied before any cosmetic is applied. A few tiny tack welds along the seam THEN a body filler. If you have any recourse with your body man I'd take it up:mad:

I've got a condensed FSM for the Holden version of the RB30. If you need me to scan you any parts let me know. The Holden version is basically identical to the Nissan engine fitted to the R31 Skyline barring the omission of the text NISSAN on the parts:rolleyes: Badge engineering at its' best;) Edit: Here is a link to two files I have uploaded to Rapidshare. R33 Repair Manual and a bonus file. These were on a CD that I got on eBay. Unfortunately they are NOT search able but you are welcome to download them if you find them useful. Use the "export links" text to download. R33

If the distributor is now electronic and no longer a points type then the original points capacitor is redundant.

Whaaaaat?

An RB30 is good. With an RB25DE[T] head on it is even better;) The RB30 was a Japanese engine sourced for the 1986 Holden Commodore in the Oz market. A great engine, don't get me wrong, BUT, it was a single cam, 12 valve engine with a dodgy optical distributor. Take its' head off and replace it with a twin cammer 24 valve head and BELOW AND HOLD, a very nice combination:love: The RB series is renown for robustness and the typical Nissan compatibility across the range allows you to build a hybrid very easily. e.g. the RB30 block has a cast in boss exactly where you need to drill for the timing belt idler pulley mount required for the twin cam conversion:classic: As a bonus, when you get the head off an RB30, the pistons have a 4 valve cutout! So obviously the engine was originally designed for a 4 valve head!

45mm overall.

Have a look here.

Some images for you:)

Like he said^^^^^ If you can give us the pinouts it could probably be replaced with one conventional automotive relay. e.g. this Hella relay is a double bunger which might be what you need:) Nissan relays are entirely unique in their construction and pinouts making replacement a pain if you don't have a Nissan P/N.

Well, it seems you're on the right track:) Glad to hear it is something "simple".

Try looking here.

The crank/cam relationship is dictated by the number of cam chain links between the two, i.e. it is an assembly step. That doesn't mean it can't be easily corrected but it does involve some strip down to check and/or adjust the cam pulley position. There should be 42 links between the crank pulley timing reference mark and the mark on the cam pulley, counted on the tension side, exhaust/inlet side of the engine. The Advance/Retard adjustment range on the distributor only affects the spark timing in relationship to the crankshaft position, it won't and can't remedy the crank/cam physical relationship.

Don't try to remove the clutch master rod, it is usually held in by an internal circlip. The clevis pin itself should have either a split pin or an "R" clip through it. Just remove that and you should be able to slip the clevis pin to one side and remove it.

You might be able to fit some semi circular nylon bushes to each end of the return spring. Most modern cars have just that. They prevent the spring from wearing grooves in the anchor points. But my money is on a well worn clevis pin or clevis as mentioned. There is probably a flat or grooves worn in the pin that causes the annoyance:rolleyes: Not difficult to check, just remove the retaining pin and slip the little sucker out.

The crank/cam relationship may very well be 1 or maybe 2 teeth out. So typical if a non L series aware mechanic did the job:stupid: Had this very experience on an L28, wouldn't do zip over 5000rpm, hit a brick wall:angry:

It should be coloured and that indicates the rating. My S30 FSM shows the link as "B" which translates to Black. Try this for a reference: - FUSE LINKS If you want you can upgrade to a more convenient method of protection by using a Maxi-fuse or encapsulated fuse links: - FUSE LINK UNITS MAXI FUSES

First step is to unload the motor and see if it turns a lot quicker. Disconnect the arm on the motor shaft to see how it performs with no load. If it is still sluggish then the brushes or motor bearings need attention, If it speeds up appreciably then the linkage needs attention. Threads deal with this, it can be a lengthy job but as already mentioned, you will be impressed once the job is done;)

Are you after the complete transmission or just the flex plate? I've got some L6 flex plates which are spare. Since I'm in pay-it-forward mode you can have one for shipping only. Probably would fit in a Pizza box so they may deliverROFLROFLROFL

TC is another TLA LOL It is a Two Letter Acronym for Tension Compression rod. It is that rod that is bolted to the LCA and the chassis. I agree, the pics. don't show any obvious damage but the wheel looks like it's off the team:ermm:

LCA is a TLA. A Three Letter Acronym for Lower Control Arm

That sort of impact can easily bend the LCA since the radius rods face to the rear. The chassis end of the radius rod could also be impacted. I doubt that the steering side rod would be damaged but you never know!

Oh dear! From the drivers seat be it LHD or RHD, the LHT goes to the LHS. At least my rack has that set up and the parts haven't been swapped to my knowledge.