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About jiman

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 22205

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  • Joined: 01/08/2011

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    Columbus, Ohio

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  1. awesome, so i guess i will just go with a 2+2 clutch kit and flywheel on my base. that's what i was assuming as well becasue the light weight ones have holes for both sizes of clutches, which means that they must be the same size. and the forks are the same, so the clutch kit must work for both.
  2. well after some research it looks like i might have the 2+2 flywheel. makes sense because its too big? anyways, i can not find any stock flywheels for the base 280z. and i dont have the money for a light one. any one have any suggestions?
  3. i think maybe its a flywheel for a 2+2. If I get a clutch kit for a 2+2, will it work with my 2 seater? Or should I get a different flywheel?
  4. the pressure plate seems too small for the flywheel. the dowels and holes do not match up?
  5. My daily 280z just had the auto 3 speed fail. A guy I know gave me a 4 speed for free. I ordered a clutch kit and a flywheel and they don't match up. Can anyone tell me if there are different sizes, or maybe what sizes they should be? According to the companies I ordered them from they are both correct. So I need to figure out whats wrong so I can return it quickly!
  6. yeah that's a good point, because I'm sure once I put the 4 speed in, I will then want a 5 speed. And I might put a different motor in it somewhere down the road after the supra's done.
  7. the auto shifts really hard, and it only shifts at 3500, whether you floor it or take it easy. im not sure if this is normal or not for the old 3 speed. but i would agree about the 5 speed, the only thing is the 4 speed would be free, and i cant really afford the 5 speed. other reason, ive only ever driven manual and i really miss it. Im pretty decent with cars, im a mechanic and have a 500whp mk3 supra.
  8. i have a 75 280z with the 3 speed auto. i have a friend with a 4 speed manual. he said he would trade me the 4 speed for the automatic. should i do it, is one worth more than the other? and what is needed to make the swap? besides pedals, master, slave. any info or input would be appreciated.
  9. Awesome thanks! good thing, because that's where I put it.
  10. Where is the valve cover vent hose supposed to connect to on a 75 280z? when I got the car there was just a hose coming off of the valve cover which went over the intake manifold and just made a 90 degree and went down to nothing. I saw some pictures where it looks like it goes to a port on the afm to tb hose but mine does not have that port. there is a metal tee with a cap on the port that points to the valve cover vent tube, should it connect there?
  11. Also when you turn it on right after it stalls, it will do a sweeping idle between 200 and 1000 rpm a couple times, then die.(Unless you hit the gas, which is where you can hear the fuel pump relay click)
  12. I bled the brakes about 3 different times, and the drums are well adjusted. About vacuum leaks, I did a smoke test on the engine, and it held pretty well but there is a slight leak at the throttle body where the tps mounts up and on the opposite side of the body (so the rod that mounts to the butterfly valve is leaking on both sides) but the leak is very small.
  13. Interesting, that seems to be exactly what I am experiencing. I will dig into that this weekend. Thanks for the advice!
  14. I recently purchased a 75 280z in pretty nice condition(Almost no rust) but not running. I have wanted one for quite a while, so I am fairly excited about it. Only downfall is its automatic, but I plan on swapping it over eventually. I am having a little trouble with getting it to run correctly, so I posted a new thread in the help section. So please check that out and tell me what you know! Anyways, glad to be here.
  15. I recently got a 75 280z which was sitting for several years. When I got the car, it wouldn't start and had no brakes. After a new fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, starter, battery, and some intake and oil cleaning it runs. problem now is if I turn it on and let it sit for a while (roughly 10 minutes) it will die out. I rewired the maf, and took off the cover and made sure all of the connections were ok. Seemed to be ok for a while, but now its doing the same thing. And whats kind of odd is when its about to die out, if I hit the gas I can hear the fuel pump relay under the dash click. As far as the brakes go, I put on a new master cyl. brake hoses, pads, rotors, shoes, drums, spring kits, and wheel cyl.'s. I cannot for the life of me get a brake pedal. It just goes all the way down. It does brake, just very poorly. I thought maybe the push-rod was not adjusted so I tweaked it a little.... still nothing. Any suggestions on either of these problems would be greatly appreciated!
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