DatsunZGuy

I replaced my old choke cable with .055" music wire. It was a night and day difference in performance. It also gave me a nice and straight cable to connect my nozzle levers to.

Since the console is not fully installed, it might be a good time to replace the cable itself. You mentioned it appears to be in good repair, but swapping the metal cable out will allow you to hang both cable housings up and spray a lubricant with graphite through them to flush them out. You'd be amazed how much gunk and loose residue accumulates in over half a century of use. Below is a link to a suitable replacement for the stock wire and rebuilding instructions. https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/repair-choke-cable/ Also, take a look at the bottom of the page. There's a paragraph on a sticky choke and smell of gas in the interior. It sounds very similar to what you're experiencing. Finally, consider mounting the choke level to the transmission tunnel instead on back on the console itself. Time is not kind to plastic and it becomes brittle over the years. The mounting plate will probably save you from cracking your console someday from pulling on the choke level a bit too enthusiastically.

You can go down to your local AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc... and try an STP SA3378. Worse case, if it doesn't fit, just take it back to the store for a refund.

Beverly Hills has really gone downhill recently 😉

Coverdale in the UK sells 260Z 2+2 carpet sets. They do ship to the colonies and the strong dollars makes the price competitive. Perhaps they may sell you just the rear hatch area. https://www.carcarpets.co.uk/datsun-260z-22-carpet-set---blenheim-range-40530-p.asp

Contact Guy Pumpelly at Z Doctor Automotive Specialist in Garden City, Idaho. Guy was offering a service where he rebuilds S30 antennas. This included disassembling the mast and straightening it. Finally, the old and/or broken nylon guide line was replaced with a new one.

@ckurtz2 I applied the JB Weld and screen material just to the areas around the cracks or voids. I went so far as to also reinforce the rivet areas as well. Any excess epoxy or screen was removed with an xacto knife and light sanding with my dremel tool.

I have achieved good result using JB Weld Plastic Bonder and reinforcing the back of the panels with sections of window screen to strengthen the area and provide a good base to fill any voids.

Not standard equipment, but period correct in terms of being available from aftermarket accessory companies like Amco.

P/N 99999-20015 (a.k.a.) the Nissan Service Manual for Model L20A, L24 Series Engines, Page ET-5 appears to show a clip style clamp on the outflow part of the fuel strainer. It's hard to make out in the photo, but it looks like the typical Philips head wire band hose clamp from the hose to the fuel pump side. So the green 240Z appears to be setup closer to the original.

FWIW...the battery cover lid that came on my 12/71 car does not have vent holes. Recently replacements (now NLA) from the likes of Motorsports Auto, JDM-Car-Parts and 240Z Rubber Parts appear to have the holes. https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/electric-components-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/original-battery-cover-set-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z?variant=731360985

Yes, if you compare it to the original 240Z sales brochure. https://xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/1970-Datsun-240Z.pdf

Years ago, I installed a pair of Pioneer surface mounted speakers similar to these on a '72 I owned. I attached them directly to rear storage compartment doors. Doing so allowed me to open and close it to access both compartments. Another idea, if you are not a stickler for originality, is to install a pair of older Mazda Miata seats the speakers built into the headrests. Just a thought.

Are you sure there isn't a nut behind it??? The piece should be removable. There should be either a 10mm or 12mm nut holding the bracket in place.

Don't forget it's missing the black cap on the spare tire valve stem. Also, I did not see the shoulder and lap belt lot and month/date tags in the auction photos. All minor issues in what will easily be a six-figure sale when the gavel falls.

I am fortunate to have an uncracked dash and even a working clock on my '72. My dilemma is wanting to keep my dash protected, but not resort to a cap or fabric mat that would require any adhesive or Velcro applied directly to the dash. The solution I went with was to purchase some black plastic grommets and long black sheet metal screws. I burned a few holes in a carpeted dashmat with a soldering iron and then used the grommets and longer screws in place of the fasteners used to keep the windshield defrost vent cover in place. It turned out well. The mat remains securely in place while driving and nothing is stuck directly to the dash itself.

First off, remove the rubber and felt inner-window channel and toss it. New replacements are readily available online and will seal the window much better. I'm sure a body shop with a TIG welder can fill that minor imperfection and grind it down smooth and you can blend it yourself with a some steel wool and elbow grease. Once mounted, you won't know it's there.

Sorry I can't help you with the missing piece. That said, the shape looks simple enough to fabricate something out of frosted acrylic plexiglass. Besides, any original replacement would probably be pretty weathered and old enough to join AARP. If you go that route, I suggest switching to an LED bulb that will run cooler and disperse light better. My guess is that the original cover was ruined by the heat given off by the incandescent bulb over time.

I just remember it as: Right = Rich Left = Lean

Let's start with establishing a baseline of tune:

I'm in the same camp liking the original bumperettes look. Straight bumpers scream I was in an accident and this was all I could find. Overriders reminds me of an awkward teenager with braces 😂

My guess is the rear bumper is from a 1973 car. The car pictured below is a 21K mile car. https://www.zero260.com/posts/game-changer-21k-mile-1973-datsun-240z-5-speed

This was posted on Facebook on November 2nd:

There is an early console that looks to be in good shape for $150 on Facebook Marketplace. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/453784786638215/

Let me know if you find a 10mm socket.