WW2Winger

Like a nice long August vacation in Texas ..... Right Stephen?

Stephen, next time your visiting your sister, give us a shout. I would love for you to see my '71.

You are right Stephen. Secede. Yep, as a native of Texas I can tell you that there are many things that are unique about our state. That's what make us so likeable and in many cases, so un-likeable to many. My observation is that as time goes on, Texas is loosing those unique qualities. I admit, some will say what a shame, others will say it's about time. Off the point of this thread, so back to our regularly scheduled discussion......

If only it were .....Oh for the good old days .......

This should make everyone feel better except "Pit Crew Guy" I'm to be 61 this summer. Still a track day guy and looking for more speed. My goal is to be that guy that everyone points at and says ..."don't let that old man fool you, he is faster than..... !!". "72 240 with brake, spring, shock, transmission, rear end, sway bar, and radiator mods. Looking for more horsepower.

Chris, I live down in Granbury. I have a '71 240 that i do track days in. The Cowtown Z Car club may be of interest to you. check it out. If you need anything, give me a PM, I'm close.

There are very many manufacturers located in Georgia. They allow factory pick-up and for those of you in Florida, that might make sense. I am also looking. Do a Google search for "trailers for Less" and it will lead you to several places.

I may be wrong here, but I think the later style bracket will not bolt up to the early style chassis. That's why I had to go to plan "B"

3 into 2 is the way to go and I think Flowmaster is as good as any. On my car, I actually have a short glass pack in the straight part of the pipe and then a Flwmaster on the end. I also run 2.5 inch pipe and those who notice say it sounds very good. From inside I like it pretty well, but would like a little more of the glass pack sound. I did have two glass packs but it was too loud. I replaced one with the Flowmaster. Reduced the noise level, but introduced a little "flowmaster" sound that I really don't prefer.

ZDUDE, what headers are you installing?

I recently finished this modification, along with several others. Yes, you do turn the mount around so that the differential is further towards the rear of the car. This also aligned my half shafts to eliminate the angularity that was common in older vins. My project also required a longer drive shaft since the diff. was moved rearward.

John, just read your reply to my question. Why would anyone think that your comment was assholish??? If you hear of a great deal, let me know. The one in your shop would probably be just the ticket!

Thanks John, I'll start the hunt. I don't think my budget will allow a limited slip. But, you know this as well as I do, eventually you end up buying the real stuff anyway so why not go ahead and look for it now? OK, now I'm hunting for a R-200 , 4:11 Lim. Slip. $$$$$

Sorry Tabrinn, I don't have the answer to your question, but I have a question of my own. What sources are out there where I might find a R-200 in 4:11 ratio? Help.

Since you said that it "stops just fine", it would appear to be a linkage issue since the only real problem is where the pedal is when the brakes take hold. The adjustment of the rod or the pedal clevis should achieve what you need. I am in the middle of the conversion to the larger MC and I am interested in the results of your project. Please keep us informed.

Search the words "reaction disc".

Thanks Miles, I hope to get my Wilwood valve today, so this will give me a good source. I appreciate the follow up.

Miles, let us know what Wilwood says. Thanks

Thanks Richard. My short term strategy, (read budgetarilly constrained), is to turn my rotors a bit to clean them up, fresh Motul600, the larger Master Cylinder, and race pads. Possibly a proportioning valve. The costs of these mods is relatively low when compared to new calipers and rotors of the racing type. I will also look at cooling ducts. Thanks again

Bedded the rotors and pads prior to the weekend events. I'm thinking that clean rotors, race pads, a bigger MC and a proportioning valve will all be a significant improvement with no wasted money. If I eventually have to go to Wilwoods, etc. I've only spent money on pads in the interim. Thanks Tom, John and Dave; keep the comments coming.

My project has been tested ......... I took my '71 down about 8 months ago with the intent of making some major mods. During this time I did the 5-speed change, the R-200, Tockico Illumina shocks and Tockico springs, lightened flywheel and new clutch. Front and rear sway bars, ...you get the picture. Also, and this is where my issues are, I put the MSA big brakes on the front and their rear disc kit on the rear. First track day session was this past weekend and everything was good except the brakes. The car, particularly after some heat was introduced, did not stop. Before you start telling me about brake fade etc, the pedal was still good, the car just wouldn't stop. The obvious mistake I made was using the pads that MSA sent with the kit, but I'm not sure that the pads will fix it all. This car is excellent in most every way and I am very proud of it. I need a good solution for the brakes. Obviously I could spend even more money and go with Willwoods or others, but I've also been told that good carbon kevlar pads will make a huge difference. Also a proportioning valve may be called for and a larger master cylinder. So far, I am not impressed with the Toyota calipers, but maybe just the pads .... The main purpose of this car will be a weekend driver and frequent track days car. As always, any input is appreciated.

Congratulations Marc on your new lift. I know you will enjoy it. I still like my two post lift as it allows work on the suspension etc. You did good. You researched, you asked questions, and made an informed decision. Good job! Now come all the neighbors who want to borrow it for just a few days. Enjoy

I don't think you ever get over the "while I'm at it".itis. For your sake, I hope you are right, but for me, it goes on and on and ......

Don't know what part of Texas you will be returning to, but there are lots of Z guys here as well. Good advice above .... get someone else to help you shop. thanks for your service to our Country.

I bought a two post lift about a year ago and have been very satisfied. Like Steve said above, they will really put the sales pitch on you to buy their product. I researched for months to be sure I got what I needed. I learned that many of the imported lifts are the same manufacturer but are marketed under different names. Not a problem with that, just be aware that many of them are identical and the only difference is the name, hype, color, etc. Four post or two, I think, is a matter of personal preference. My vision saw very few advantages to the four post that the two post didn't have, while the two post offers features that the four poster does not. Again, personal preferences and needs should prevail. For the price diffeence, I chose the imported lift after comparing side by side with the domestic models. If I owned a shop and would be up and down dozens of times a day, I might have spent the extra bucks, but for my needs, I have more than I will ever need. I did go with a bit of over capacity as I believe it is more heavy duty and this should translate into less wear and tear and therefore, longer life. Mine has an 11,000# capacity and is an "asymetrical" design. Not to belabor this thread, but just my .02. Again, a very good buy for my needs. Good luck