59ghia

I hear ya! I'm just getting kinda desperate for a bumper! Oh well, patience is a virtue

Ok, But how about putting a '73 bumper on a '72 ? Get rid of the big overiders, and the bumper is basically the same, except the attachment method (bumper side) Dave

Hi Vicky A "roller cam" ussually means the lifter has a small "wheel" riding on the cam lobe. Flat tappet or lifter is just that, a flat area riding on the cam, this causes more resistance. Our Z's are flat tapet or rocker arm/lash pad. This area is where the term "swipe pattern" comes from, small matched grooves "swipes" happen at this high resistance point. You never want to move rockers for this reason, those "groves" are like a finger print, each cam lobe makes their own on its tappet. Now you can get roller lifters also, there again is a small steel wheel that rests on top of the valve stem (you need a lash pad when you run these) This equals even less valve train resistance. Hope it helps, Dave

Hello fellow Zers I've got an opportunity to pick up a clean late '72 early'73 bumper. Although they look the same except for the larger overiders, the mounting point inside the bumper is different. The early bumpers have the studs permanently mounted to the bumper itself, were the late 72, June or July has the mounting bracket studs mounted thru the overiders on an adaptor. Has any one tried to mount these late '72-73 bumpers to an earlier car? I'm getting close to desperate to find a clean early bumper, and thinking I may need to do some mods to get this to work. Thanks in advance, Dave

Put me on the list! I've been to this event just about every year, and in my opinion its a "can't miss"! Dave

I'll take earthquakes over those things any day! Glad to hear you came out un-scathed. Dave

They ask the question "what can brown do for you?" Well...........

I believe, as in the brake lines, the hose part is held in place by a clip, and only the hard line should turn. after removing the hard line there should be a slip-fit clip, remove that, then push the rubber hose up and out. You should notice some indents where the hose/ metal part slides into... Good luck, Dave

Also check the retainer springs, kinda looks like a cloths pin spring. I've had one pop off and sound like a mis-adjusted valve. Good luck, Dave

1955, same year, Porsche 550 Spyder (lil Bastard) My favorite car. Gonna Build a Beck replica one of these years!

Check this place out, http://www.lightlens.com/coloredbulbs.htm

My daughter has a yamaha flute, and my Ford Taurus SHO has the wonderful Yamaha built V-6. Dual overhead cams, 3.0 litre, 4 valve per cylinder 220 hp. An absolutly fantastic engine! Thanks for the informative thread. I've seen a couple of the 2000's, one at the montery historics, the guy had it running, sounded sweeeeet! Dave

Gavin, Actually the intake is the larger of the two, from what I understand, the volume in is larger then the volume out, since some is lost in the combustion process. I read that or heard it somewhere.... Dave

Did you end up with a savaged title? If so keep those pics you have in case you ever want to sell your car. Looks good! Dave

If dis-assembly, cleaning and oiling doesn't work you may have to clean the little motor that drives the clock. You really need to be careful, but this is what i had to do. There are four very small wires that act like "brushes" on a very small 3 segment "commutator" This "commutator" gets dirty and needs to be cleaned (I used an eraser tip) This job is a real PITA but was the only way to get my clock working (one year now). The real difficult part is getting the "brushes" back arount the "commutator" Through the outside I slid a paperclip or somthing like that between the "brushes" enough to open up those very thin wires "brushes" to re-assemble. You may need to clean those wires where they touch the commutator with some real fine sandpaper , 1000 grit or so. Again be real careful if you try this as those wires are thin! Good luck, Dave

Been there done that too!!! My fuse looked ok, but the cap seperated , and alittle brown suff was coming out between the left cap and glass. My fuse box was starting to melt on that left side lug. I half arsed repaired that lug and haven't blown a fuse since. You can also "rebuild" your light switch. Do a search, there's a thread around here somewhere were I described how I did it. Good luck, Dave

Victor, Outf***ing standing!!!!! Let us know if you need any small parts, more then happy to help out if I've got something you need! All the luck, Dave

After reading fine print, in the last ten years thru B-J:stupid:

Looks like they do sell Z's there! One claims $75k!!! Do you believe it?!! A few 280's and a Ferrari replica also! Check it out! Dave

I've done it on my '72. Take the switch apart, removing the little switch "box", it comes off with 2 or 3 philips screws, then use a small screwdriver to pry the little "tangs" that hold the inards inplace, remove the two contactors, using emery cloth clean them up along with the contact post's re-assemble and your good to go..... good luck, Dave

Victor, Sorry on your loss, that really bites! I'll keep an eye out up here in San Fran. Don't give up hope! Go cruise the docks, and auto body shops (the dark dingy ones), act like a customer and check 'em out. Best of luck, Dave