zKars

I wanted to put in one place, a reference topic to those who are struggling with slamming doors with new rubber weather-strip, whatever your source for that material. Mark Tanker, @wheee! here, posted an excellent few posts in his build thread that showed how to simply create the often missing rubber parts in our 70-76 door latches that will quickly solve the slamming. Find it here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=294#elControls_656753_menu Steve Nixon (hope I spelled that right) has a commercial product that reproduces ALL of the 5 rubber parts that are in a latch mechanism. https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/240z-lock-mechanism-set

Amazon is “a-wash” with spray nozzles! (Ha) Only thing on a 510, the cowl to windshield angle is too sharp, and the cowl is too close to the windshield to use these. Would have to put them on the hood. Not as “slick” a solution. Hey don’t Z’s have both RHD and LHD nozzle holes in the firewall? You “could put four nozzles in and get better volume! Or is that 510’s….. Arghhhhh

I’ve struggled with nozzles too. On my last personal Z, I put a pair of two-outlet each sprayers right on the cowl (from maybe a early 2000’s Altima?), ran the hose through a new hole in the firewall to get in there and enjoyed a full volume 4 spray pattern on the windshield. They were small black and low profile. I’ve since seen all manner of aftermarket spray nozzles that surface mount. Just an idea. I might be able to scrap up a set of stock nozzles if you really need some bad…. Found a picture of my sprayers on the cowl! From 2010! Dang I miss that car…

Can you tell that this group is a bunch of talented self taught fabricators with healthy dose of DIY and offer to help when needed? Yeah, that’s us and damn proud of everyone here.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124530-nismo-fuel-pump-install-help/ Closest thing I could find to a picture of where it goes. There are a pair of M6 threaded holes on the back side of the "frame" member, right side, just outside of where the rear control arm suspension hanging brackets mount. For $165 I'll make these plates all day long! cut, bend, drill four holes, two insert nuts, powder coat. Done.

Oh for heavens sake. Now that I know what I’ looking for, all of these are labelled as “Horn”and have the same connector. Also found another style of early buzzer Do NOT ask me why I didn’t just look at Matthew’s picture in the original post for this ad to see what I was looking for… Old people, jeez….

Well looky here. yes, it works. The most miserable little annoying buzz ever Been outside attached to this pedal box for ages.

Dang things are attached to the pedal boxes, not something I saved many of. I know a guy with a 73, maybe it’s still on there.

Am I close? The switch is not new, but in good shape. Might have a better one.

I’ll post a picture of the finished product today. Very pleased with the result.

So I happen to borrow a semi-professional steam cleaner machine from a car buddy in town to do a little carpet spot cleaning, and he happens to tell me how great it cleans car parts! So I have this 5 speed with a nice overall coating of 50 year old oil and crap all over it that I can just not “wait” to scrub manually, so I try it. This thing is magical! I knew steam is a common industrial cleaner, but never really considered it for home use. Well, my carpets are clean, and so is my transmission. The pics show one nice little area I cleaned with the rest of the dreary dirty stuff around it. This took about a minute. The cleaning end has a little stiff brass brush (SS also available) that you scrub lightly with. This thing is dangerous, 315F steam at high pressure. But man! Does it clean aluminum. And I don’t know where the grime goes, it just disappears…… Small puddle of water on the floor. Anyway, something to add to the tool arsenal. Ain’t cheap, glad to have a buddy to borrow from. I have a little one I bought for like $50 to steam my gas tank (remember that), that thing would be slow. And yes, it blew whatever the heck my grand daughter messed up the carpet with right outta there in about 20 seconds with no detergent,

IF you want to learn about high temp gasket materials.... https://customgasketsltd.com/high-temperature-gasket-material/ and good ol' McMaster Carr

Other than buying one as a part of a full gasket set, can't seem to find anyone carrying this gasket Part #24, 14004-N4300 The exhaust manifold to down pipe gasket for a 76 280 L28. Happy to make my own I guess, but never shopped for gasket material for this high heat application. Anyone have any recommendation on what to use?

No need for the nipple unless you’re going to keep using the flow control valve, which is where that nipple goes to. This is a 280 right, so you don’t have that, your tank vent is via the charcoal canister. I really should go back and read the start of the thread…. If you really want one with a knipple, I can send you one of mine.

All the 240 and 280 tubes I have are the same OD, 0.99 or 0.985. All look the same on the end. The measurement I made is of the larger OD, beyond the short initial step. They are not tapered.

Don’t be so quick to bash the vendor. What did that guy think he was buying for $50? A hand made, custom designed one of kind bespoke wonder device with gold trim? Maybe he’s never looked at the near infinite supply of 100’s varieties of a 1000 such automotive products on Amazon and thought this was a nice custom piece for his Z and decided, on his own, to spend his money as he saw fit. Only after he realized what he bought, how cheap they are to buy himself, and how little value was actually added by Harmon, did he get indignant about it. Typical. Let the market decide if a product price is too high. Just buy the USB charger thingy that fits into your existing cig lighter hole and avoid the buy it or build it hassle completely.

I’d be happy to sell my 55R/L pair. Let’s discuss the details with a personal message. I’ll send you one right now.

The stamp on the back of them has a number and a R or L for right or left. These are 55L on top and 55R on the bottom

https://www.classiccarperformance.com/collections/britishstarters-com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-high-torque-starter https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/new-starter-for-massey-ferguson-mf1010-mf1020-mf1030-mf1035-tractor-3435016m91.html I think I have one of these in the shed. Both are supposed to be “new” ??

Love the flasher labeling Apparently only works when flying over Dodge vehicles several times. No problem.

I have been using the wiring for the courtesy light (look for the blue tape) to install under dash (or footwell lights if you prefer), in every Z or 510 for some time now. Great addition and always appreciated by customers. Give the cars a nice easy modern touch. That silly dome light look pretty pathetic without them. I use some little round LED’s I got from Princess Auto (harbor freight to you US of A’ers). Pic below. About 3/4”, just zip tie it or glue it something under the dash. Couple of matching vintageconnection bullet connectors and viola.

Okey Dokey, got the tank mods done and the pump and level senders installed. After careful welding and grinding, I covered the weld inside and out with POR gas tank sealer paint. Bit fun getting your hand in the pump hole with a wire brush and/or scotchbrite to clean the backside of the weld and surrounding tank area real pretty but I managed it. Even managed to get the stock sender arm bent to clear all the new tank occupants. Just took a small kink near the end to get it around the stalk of the new fancy sender. Figure this way you can use a stock gauge if you want to at some point, or if I’m not happy with the Amazon sender for whatever reason. AND it fills the sender hole in the tank. The resistance range is 15 to 61 ohm given the restricted movement range, vs 10-90 stock. Float hits the lower ceiling now, and sits on the fancy hydromat on the bottom. Oh well. Notice also the nice waterproof Deutsch DT connector. I’m very happy with this setup. Just have make short hoses to bring the connection point down in front of the tank. Can’t put them together with the hoses going upfront and the filter with the tank in place. There is one more detail yet to be added, but will have to wait until I have a chassis to mount to the tank. This dropped area means I am missing one of the four points of contact with the hatch floor above. If the tank won’t snug up and sit nice with the straps, I’ll have to add a little leg from somewhere in the SW corner (in this picture) of the lowered area, up to the ceiling above to form that fourth leg.

Nothing fancy, in fact just a pretty stock L28. Reliability and drive it anywhere anytime is the objecive. I had seen the sonic based level sensors, makes sense there would be a laser one as well.

Yes the fancy long skinny sock is a Holley ”hydramat” fuel sucker sponge thingy. This is my strategy to make it slosh and low fuel proof for the EFI application. I don’t intend to use the stock float and sender, I have a top mounted aftermarket unit to install next to the pump. I think you would have to create a new arm shape for the stock float to meander around the new pump and sender hardware, but it could work just fine I think.

Progress on the EFI pump conversion this week, after a busy holiday season that saw more kitchen renovation than I cared to do. Decided to create a 1.25” deep flat recess to mount the Holley 12-168 pump and hanger and the new level sender. The opening is roughly 8 inches wide and 10 inches long. The tray I built is 8.1x10.2 and has 1.5” bent up edges. Much grinding and fitting and hammering to get close fits all around. More pics tomorrow after I finish welding and mounting stuff