beandip

Lance is correct . The P-90a is a head on a turbo engine . the P-90 is also on a turbo but it isn't hydraulic

I can not show you a picture but the '73 has a larger one, just slightly , than the earlier years . My '73 had a top from a 73 and a bottom half of a 70 witch didnt come together well. I have since replaced it with a correct one . Gary

Skotty , welcome to the club , if you took position of your Z last summer , by now you are infected by the Z virus . Be aware there is NO cure for this and you will find your self wanting another . As a fellow infected owner Welcome , Gary

Are these SUs ? I have tried to balance SUs and found it nearly impossible with out a Uni-sen or equivalent . In the USA the auto equipped early Z have dual points. the second set takes over after warm up . Cumbersome at best . As to advance , the vacuum advance is only for lower RPM and the centrifugal advance is at full before 4K . What is the timing set at at idle . Set it at 10 BTDC . Hope this is of help. Gary

I am planning on both days. However family event may curtail my plans . Gary

Steve , welcome to the club. There is a lot of knowledge here if you have any problem with the early Zs I know there are members here that have the answers. Your later cars maybe a problem though . Your 300 and 350 pose a different area of knowledge not many of us can help with . But ask away . Gary

Bite the bullet and put some gas in the tank and take the Z out for a drive ! That should rekindle the interest . If your car is down for repair or being redone , keep your eye on the prize . Take it one day at a time. My Z was down for just about 3 years , I know what you are going through. Gary

Look at the end of the cam , the firewall end , and see if there are any stampings there . If so this may give us a clue . Mine has E-88N I was able to identify the cam from that . Gary

What they told me is where you see the scorched tape when you first look at the pipe , this is the optimum place to put the muffler for resonance control. In all likelihood it will be not too far back from the collector. So starting with a cool exhaust pipe , when the part that heats up to the point of scorching the tape, form then on of course the rest of it will then heat as well . Of course if the space is a problem , which it is on these cars, adjust accordingly. This information was given as a guideline . Gary

Marty , I bought my Dynomax from Summit . I have it attached to a 2 1/2'' mandrel bent piping . The only thing is a resonance at 1500 to 2K . It can get annoying the addition of a small glasspac near the tyranny area will eliminate it. One thing about the glass PAC '' cherry bomb '' type , they use a louver type of perforations in the internal pipe and it extends into the flow of the 2 1/2 internal pipe reducing it down and causing back pressure . If your intentions are to have a full flowing system , go with a RACE type of glass PAC . If you just look down the inside of them you will see what I mean . My Z with the 280 engine and the Dynomax has a low rumble note at normal rpm and driving , like a V 8 . When I put my foot into it it is laud . I haven't installed the glasspac as yet . One hint that was passed on to me from Dynomax , to determine where to place the glasspac . Is to put some masking type on the pipe from the collector to the first bend . Start the engine and run the RPM up until you hear the resonance and hold it for about 30 sec or so , then shut it off and see where the scorched tape is , that is where to install the muffler . Gary

Is it possible that you have a electric fuel pump ? After 35 years it is possible some one has installed one. Have a look . If you find a pump back by the tank , there should be a in line filter in between the pump and the tank. If it is blocked , there is the problem. Worth a look. If no pump back there , then blow some compressed air in to the line from the inlet hose to the filter . If the pick-up is blocked this will clear it. It should not be a big deal to pull the old mechanical pump . I am not sure if Nissan still stocks new pumps ,but there should not be any trouble to find a rebuilt one . If that is the problem. What type of ignition is on the car ? You didn't say and how did you test for spark ? By grounding one of the plug wires ? Have you been doing anything with the timing prior to this ?

side terminals is also a good choice , the costco battery has both . In fact you can buy side terminals only .

I am not a injection guy , but have you looked into a Mega-squirt . The 280 guys in my area are going that route and seem vary happy with the results. Just a thought.

I simply went to Costco . $48.00 comes with a 4 year replacement guarantee and is covered for 100 months pro rated. I have had one of there batteries in the past that was only guaranteed for 84 months that started to fail after 4 years. they gave me a 50% refund . The battery is well within the specs called for by Nissan . It has a carrying handle also. . They carry gel batteries also. For around a hundred dollars. Gary

THE CAR THAT WAS RUN A YEAR AGO , I DON'T SEE MUCH OF A PROBLEM. I would still turn it over with a socket wrench and have the plugs out and oil the cylinders. The other engine is another thing. I would pull the valve cover and pour oil over the cam and all the valve train. Remove the plugs and oil the cylinders and turn over the engine with a wrench. Remember these engines when at rest have two valves open to the air. A valve stem can have rust causing it to stick in a open position . If you spin the engine on the starter or try and fire the engine you can easily bend the stuck valve and or punch a hole in a piston. So take your time , drain the oil from both engines so you are not pumping crap through a other wise good engine . Oil the cylinders well and turn the engines over with a wrench on the crank . When you are satisfied things are working freely . Reinstall the pluggs and Start them up and enjoy the ride. DO CHECK THE BRAKES FIRST BEFORE YOU TRY AND DRIVE THE CAR. Gary

I am an old dude and I do appreciate a good ride . I want a firm ride but I don't need to feel every crack in the road. I recently rode in a Z with Tokicos and set on the low setting . The car rode like a truck. For a track car it is great but for a driver this is no where what I want. I am using KYB G2s with euro stage 1 springs. If your Z was originally sold in Europe it most likely has these springs already . All the best to you , Gary FOR SOME REASON I MUST ADD MORE VERBAGE BEFORE I CAN POST

The higher Hp numbers were taken from an engine on a test stand , no water pump, or alternator , no fan, no smog pump , no air cleaner, . Just the engine and the test was run and that is how the numbers derived at . This is how all cars were advertised . Then things changed and the numbers were taken from he rear wheels. Adding a cam will change the RPM where the engine will make its HP , but you will also need to increase compression , milling the head, add headers and new exhaust out to a 2 1/4 or 2 1/2'' . This will help the engine breathe. Alone the cam wont help that much . These engines were tuned at the factory . To improve the HP requires changes. This is all a balancing act , one thing is dependant on the other . Lower the gearing ratio in the diff will give you performance for a lot less cash. Just changing from your 3.36 to 1 gearing to 3.54s from a automatic car will make a difference and you will still have a car you can drive on the Freeway at speed. Gary

I agree with Arne . Have you looked at the tire calculator and entered your tire size and the trans you are running and the different rear end ratios ? This will show what RPM you will be turning at any speed in any gear . It won't give you MPG figures but you can input what gearing you are running now and compare . Then make a good judgement call . Gary

I didn't see your first post , sorry . I don't know squat about injection , most likely I would not have posted to the thread any way.. Sorry you are disappointed and glad you have solved your problem . Gary

be careful if you are sanding or sand blasting . Headers are not that thick and you dont want to remove any metal. I scuffed mine off by hand with some 220 paper knocking off the roughness of the rust . Spayed some metal ready on it and sprayed them whit header paint. I have a little over 3K on them and they still look like I just painted them. Gary

The thicker insulator is just that a insulator between the carb body and the intake . Helps in hot weather to keep the carbs cool. A vacuum leak will cause a lean mixture which will cause a high idle and also the probability of burned valves. Doug, make sure the balance screws are set so the idle will be down to about 1K . When you start doing the mixture adjustment. If the linkage is not binding and is free to function smoothly . Look at the balance adjustment for the cause of he high idle . Providing you did install the two return springs . One more thing, If you have removed the butterfly disks from the throttle shafts , you may not have aligned them to the bore of the carb body. If this is the case you will have what you are experiencing. If this is the case , remove the carb and look through the barrel holding it up to a light source. With the adjustments backed off the butterfly should seal all the way around . Not allowing any light to show at all. If there is light showing then loosen the screws holding the disk , just to the point so that it can move with some friction. Snap the throttle closed sharply a couple of times , and look and see if the gap is gone . When all the gap is gone, tighten one screw and remove the other one. Apply some loctite to the screw and reinstall it . Remove the second one and do the same thing . Reinstall the carb and readjust . Hope this answers your questions and helps with your problem . Gary

If you are having problems with a rusty tank. Contact POR-15 and buy there kit to seal the tank . I for one wouldn't want a PLASTIC FUEL TANK on any car I own. There are others that make sealer kits that will coat the inside of your tank and end the rust problems . Summit , Eastwood , and JC Whitney to name three more. Good luck with your problem and I hope this solves it for you . Gary:rambo:

because you will loose the braking assist, making it difficult to stop. If you are not going to drive the car and just want to have a vacuum gage connected for a test . Go for it. I wouldn't drive it this way .