bpilati

Marty, maybe (God forbid) you need to kick the side of you Z to get the sender to plunk into the proper position so you won't run out of gas.

Is it possible to purchase only the O-ring? Anyway my Z shop maintains that it's usually the sending unit that has a problem. I don't know, but my gage never reads exactly full or over full, but just a tad under when completely full. It's been too long to remember what it was like prior to this problem. Is it correct to assume that when the gage in on "E", there is still 2 or 3 gallons left as a reserve?

Are you saying what I said is wrong? I don't follow.

I thought the idea was to have a discussion about modifying it.

Funny!

No, I didn't. Thanks, didn't know that was what I was suppose to click. Nice images. I suppose you have the vector format versions?

Let me add something here. I ran out of gas a 1/4 full once. I talked to the Z shop near me and they told me that the float on the sending unit rides along a set of windings similar to a rheostat. If one of the wires breaks, it can cause the float to get hung up on it, not allowing it move the full range. Consequently, as the gas level changes the fuel gage reading does not. This seems plausible, so I hope this helps you guys. A new sender is $45 according to the Z shop.

I have Nissan 280Z or ZX wires in my Z.

Wayne, I couldn't get to the zip file.

I am 6'3" and have plenty of room. I have long legs too.

So with vector graphics you can work with specific entities; this should make it easy to make modifications and show added relays and other things.

Can it be put in vector graphics format?

Michael Moore was at the Republican Convention as well.

Actually I started this thread to discuss Imron. Does anyone have anything to add to that topic? I need the information. Thanks.

The blue one or the red one? They both look great.

Carl, I guess you'll have to stay pissed. Sorry.

How much stability improvement do you notice with the BRE spook? Which version (vented or non-vented) would you recommend?

I use the word Bondo genericly to mean filler. I'm sure the body shops use much more modern and superior products not.

Don't the judges notice the thickness of the magnets? Cool idea though.

Too bad there isn't a way to buff out or fill the scratches on the original windshields, and have them hold up like new. I like seeing the Nissan emblem on my windshield. The tiny sand pits do cause glare from the sun though, a definite negative.

I went all out and replace my fenders with Nissan 280Z fenders. Call me crazy. They cost twice what aftermarket one cost, but I was told that aftermarkets usually fit horribly and you spend the remaining money in the body shop fixing them. Do buy used stuff that has rust on it.

Has anyone used or seen a Z painted with Dupont Imron paint. From my reading there are one part and a two part (color and clear coat) versions of this paint. I've been told it is very tough, in fact it is even used on boats. I've also been told it buffs up very well. I'm interested in long term experience with this paint on the car. Thanks.

I believe what we are seeing is cracking of the lead filler used at the factory to smooth over the seam left from the spot welding of the quarter panel to the roof. After you sand it down it may not be a bad idea to examine these areas more careful to make certain that the metal itself is not fatigued. I don't know if it's possible to repair the lead fill.

How old is the OEM rubber? As much as I agree that OEM rubber probably fits better, I'm concerned about the effects of age even sitting in the shelf. The synthetic materials from Japan that far back I believe are inferior to what is used now. So the trade off may be fit vs material, has anyone evaluated this? I would be interested in knowing.

Carl, if I had needed your permission, I would have asked for it.