Dan

Thanks Rolf that makes sense.

Heres a question that's been bugging me. Is the CO driver the only one on the team that is able to study each stage in a rally before hand. I'm mean it's his responsibility to tell the driver whats coming up and to make sure the car stays on pace right?. I'm just trying to figure out the CO drivers importance in rally racing, couldn't the driver just study each up coming stage?.

I have a fiberglass air dam from MSA which i installed my self, if you like owenk you can read my review on it on this site. As far as taking care when driving, no i can't say that i do in respect to the air dam. I don't know about urethane but fiberglass is a very easy material to work with. Even a big crack would be easy to fix, some fiberglass mat, resin, and little sanding and you wouldn't notice the damage. Of course if you nock of a big chunk your probably done. Then again fiberglass is cheap, saying that though i think urethane with probably take more abuse in that it will give and not crack.

I always give a thumbs up or a wave. You don't see many early Z's out there so it's just good form to do so.

I have two different E88 heads, the early E88 head and a later one (atleast this is what i've been told). The casting marks are different between the two and makes idetification abit easyer. The early head has a skinny E and a uniform 88 casting mark where as the later head is uniform through out the three characters (same size and thickness). The early head has notches at the bottom of each combustion chamber, and i'm told the early head has the same compression as the E31. I'v also been told that it's an easy swap to put in the larger valves in the E88 heads, has anybody done this before?. I have the early head on my 240, which i recently put on. I changed the trans and rear end too at about the same time so i couldn't say if the early E88 head gave me anymore HP than the later one. I will say that the 5 speed 3.90 R200 and Supposed high compression E88 head have made a big difference.

I have found a hub adaptor on Kitcarz.com for $149 a pair. However i believe that this company is going out of buisnes. I too am frustrated with not being able to buy a good set of wheels for a reasonable price. I've seen many early Z's with nice mordern looking rims but i can never seem to find any myself. It would be nice if we could compile a list of available companys out there that make wheels for the early Z. I myself am looking for a set of 16X7 wheels but i can only find the Panasports and one or two others that MSA has. I was at the MSA show this year and saw rims galore!, i should of goten out my note book and started asking questions but i was too busy ogleing all the Z's and forgot all about it.:stupid:

Now that i have had the conversion done from auto to 5 speed and had the rear end replaced with a 3.90 rear it screams. Once i can find enough road without cops i'll post my findings.

It's a bit of a stretch but you could say the 62 250 GTO has similar lines. There is at least one company i know of that makes a body kit for the 70-78 Z that will make it look like a 250 GTO.

I have heard of a racer that in Z circles is known as the 12 second guy. I read somewhere that this guy runs consistant 12's runing SU carbs.

My Z is worth more to me than i could sell it for so i really don't care either way.

Male. My wife can confirm this we have four kids, and yes it was i that did the planting.

Shes a floatation device.

Thanks JC for the info but this is the club i found. O well maybe i'll start one myself.

I Just moved from San Diego C.A to Charleston S.C and was wondering if any club members live in the area. There was once a Z club in Goose Creek where i now live but it seems defunked. I will be looking for an experienced machine shop to work on a spare head i have, so if anyone knows a place in this area let me know please.

You might want to PM HS30-H he knows a good bit about triples.

It looks very stock, you have a keeper there don't let go of it.

I have been told that the glass in the twice pipes tends to burn out, is this true.

Some nice pix there. Just when i thought i'd seen everything that could be done with a 240 i see that i'm wrong. That TT V8 must put out some silly power, i would of thought it would just twist thw body to pieces.

Royce is right goto ZTherapy. Get their video Just SU's, in two hours you will know everything there is to know about SU carbs. For 15 bucks you can't beat that kind of knowledge, it will save you time and money in the long run.

I don't want to blow my own horn but many people ask me if i've dropped a V8 in my 240. Mostly because of the exhaust and headers i have. Also i think that my cam is not original because at idle the car has a rough throaty pulse that just doesn't sound stock. Saying that though the people that do ask me about my engine don't know squat about cars, you just can't beat the sweet sound of a V8, 2Many is right.

The ignition is made by Crane and it is an XR-700. MSA has a few different models to choose from # 800-633-6331.

That's pretty cool, did you do that?. If so continue i'd like to download it when your done. Very cool

Probably the best thing i did was buy the Just SU carbs video from ZTHerapy along with a Unisyn flow meter. SU's that aren't flowing together will never work right, total cost 50 bucks. The first and best mod i did to my (totaly stock at the time) 240 was to toss the restrictive exhaust and manifold, and put on some headers and 2.5 in exhaust system. The sound difference alone is worth it. Actual power increase probably about 10-15 hp if your lucky, cost 300+. A crane electronic ignition which replaces the points in the distributor for an LED system, made a world of difference too, cost 120. The most over looked mod on the whole car IMOP is the plugs. Put the wrong plugs on your car and it will run like crap, robbing you of power and fuel, i use NGK's.