kully 560

I see the new msd 6a has a plugin harness where my older msd 6a has the tach output on 1 side with a recessed spade male connector. and on the other side the harness for ingition and power.

or tachmatch v boost

I sorry for not answering your question, it is not the tachmatch convertor it is the tachmatch voltage booster.

thanks Zed head for the reply, the signal from the voltage booster is 2 strong for the oem tach, I am running the msd 6a ingition which on the output tach connection it puts out about 3-3.5 volts according to msd ,that is why I went with the voltage booster. I now have to lower it with a resistor. I tried a 24k ohm resister with little change to the rpms. then I went to a 47k ohm resistor and the tach never moved. I then went to a 35k ohm resistor and the tach work great and the rpms are spot on. according to technoversions he had some 260z cars work fine just with the voltage booster. it now works great except the current drop when the electric cooling fan comes on. I thought about a diode in line with the resistor. what do you think.

I installed the technoversions tachmatch voltage booster on my early 260z today so I can have the stock oem tach working off of the msd 6a ingition direct. at first it was about 1500 rpms to high, and when I did start playing with resistors, I found that a 35k resistor worked with accuracy. the only problem I have is when the electric cooling radiator fan comes on the tach drops down and then back up to normal after the fan is running. now my thoughts are to maybe add a diode in line with the resistor. I did wire the tachometer direct from the voltage booster. I am looking for some input from any electronic gurus. thanks

I change ever thing just like you. a new steering rack, tire rods inner and outer, techno toy tension rods, lower control arms from techno toy, struts and new springs I went 2 tire changes over the years and several balancing of the tires just like you, it was really starting to wizz me off. I never looked at the front pads when I went to drilled and slotted rotors as the caliper comes off without removing the pads. I did a lot of chasing of that same problem to find out about the shims sticking. well good luck and let me know what you find, and maybe my post will help some other members with the same problem. kully

I do not know if you ever looked at the front brakes! I change all the stuff you have done including the techno toy front end parts and I still had the shake between 60 and 70 mph. I never check the front pads as they were new from about 20 years ago with little mileage maybe 3000 miles. my shake would go away after I drove the car and got the tires warmed up. I thought maybe flat spot from sitting in the garage for a month at a time. now about a month ago I did have a front wheel bearing seal leaking a little and I decided to install new bearings and seals on both sides for the little that they cost. now at this time I said let me install new front pads, and what I did find was the oem shims were partially sticking to the brake pads. I had to pry it off on one pad it was stuck on. I did clean them up like I posted early, and the car is perfect!!!! If you have not checked them, then after the wheels take a looked it and it might just be the finishing touch you need.

I did chase the same problem. what solved my problem was the front stainless steel brake shims. I removed them and used a bronzed wire wheel in a drill and cleaned them up completely and applied brake grease to both sides of them, and bingo that was my problem. now also new hardware on the calipers with brake grease. also, I did also use some sandpaper for the caliper piston where it touches the brake shim. just remove any rust that might be there. hope this helps

the kit comes with all the adaptors. it even has the plastic washers for easy rotating of the strut.

you would have to punch out the center pin on the oem strut. then you would use the adaptors that come with the kit. very easy to do about a 1/2- hour job. do not make the bolts that hold the strut to tight, and I did use locktite on the nuts.

just to let the forum members know I have a 260z with the 2 lift struts for the hatch. today I did install the Stabilus brand strut part # is 3b250273 and the hatch opens up 95% on its own. after I push the button to open the hatch, I raised it maybe 3-4" and it goes all the way to the top. what a difference. I believe the force is 44lbs for each strut and it does close really easy. just an update for the forum.

I did finish the rear axle stub bearings today. thanks Zed Head for the help, I removed the stub axle and you were right about the seal causing friction. I did set it flush with a block of wood and a hammer yesterday. now after looking at the seal again today the seal has to be set in almost a 1/4" from the outside. there is just a small lip that I felt and set the seal up to that which just about touching the inner bearing. I torque the stub axles down to 200- foot pounds and it does spin freely with no noise and binding. I guess the flange has just enough flex when being torque down that it must just flex enough to cause the binding. it is a very simple job besides that little problem. the shop book says nothing about the seal install and I did it the usual way which is wrong. now anybody looking to do the bearing replacement make sure the seal is all the way in and you should be fine. thanks again for the great help. kully

I am going to put the shaft out again and measure the b spacer and start from there. it did look good and not egged or crushed but I will measure it and see where it is at. thanks

I do have a 20 -ton press and I did use to install the outer bearing. the inner bearing I set it in with a socket and hammer and I did make sure it was installed correctly and not crooked.

thanks Zed Head for the help! but I am still confused about the torque range. I will put out the stub axle again and measure the b spacer distance and it should be 52.5mm - 52.56mm long. if is to long will I have to have a machine shop cut it down? now the 3.9" point is measured from where? the mistake I might have made was I did install the inner seal first and then I install the stub axle nut and tried to torque it down . maybe I should take the seal out and torque it down and then remove the nut and install a new seal and nut again? well like you said it also could be dragging against the bearing .

I was installing new rear axle bearing in my 1974 260z today with the Skf 116 and 117 bearings, all went well until the torque specs. I have the b spacers in there and the factory shop manual states to torque from 180-220' pounds of torque. the preload says 3.9 -inch pounds which does not make sense. but in the factory book under the torque specs section, it says 90-120' pounds. now when I did reach 60' pounds on the driver side axle it was getting hard to spin. I also used the zx rear stub axle nut that does not use the crimp as the early z do. I did try with and without the stub axle washer and as I thought it did not make a difference. is there something I am doing wrong? could it be the Skf bearings? I did use a micro digital gauge and measured the old outer bearing to the new Skf outer bearing, and it was .005" smaller than the Skf bearing. any thoughts thank you Kully

I guess maybe I will leave them alone if that is the way they are. just point the brass down a little more. thanks

I am not sure if the 260 has the eyeball for adjustment. I just bend the brass nozzle, so it hits the windshield in the middle when driving. last summer I had to take the z in to the transmission shop for a tail shaft bushing and seal replacement. when I was driving there to the shop, I did use the washer and my wife was behind me laughing as it sprayed over the roof and was barely hitting the windshield. I would say half on the windshield and half over the roof. I guess it is winter so something to do on the z. I only see the one small hole in the end of the nozzle. is there supposed to be something in there?

well now, it has been some years since I used the washer in my 260z. mine sprays like a hose, are these supposed to spray in a spray pattern or like a hose. thanks again

your float setting is off .

these green led bulbs are about the same brightness as when I did install the 4w incandescent ones 20 years ago. just green in color to match the lens in the gauge, and the dimmer works the same.

yes, the dimmer does work

hi Steve, yes those are the ones, and bright thanks

well, I did finish the speedo and tach with the non -polarity type led bulbs and all is working. if anybody is going to do the upgrade with the leds for the gauges it seems that the non- polarity is a must. thanks for all the help

yes, I did order 22.5mm long. there was not many to choices in the green color from what I can see, and a few were not dimmable. the Keiurot brand were the only one on amazon that were non polarized and dimmable besides the one I found on the superbright web site.