kully 560

I think you are right. just as usual we never stop improving our z cars . it is not bad at all, just looking for a little better performance .did not know much about these bump steer spacers thought it might help. thanks for you help kully

I have stock rubber bushings all around except for the ttt lower control arms and tension control arms, these all have the hiem joints which will help in feed back. but the bump steer I would like to cure if possible . do you think this could be fixed or just have to live with it ?

front left camber is-0.3 degrees and right is -0.4 degrees , caster is front left 3.0 degrees and right is 3.1 degrees. toe is front left 0.16 degrees and right is 0.15 degrees SAI front left is 12.6degrees front right is 13.0 degrees , including angle is front left 12.4 degrees and front right is 12.6 degrees . tires @ 32 psi thanks kully

I have a early 1974 260z new front end new stock springs and tokico hp shocks. everything is new. alignment is perfect camber and caster. I have tt tunning lower adjustable control arms and tt tunning adjustable tension control rods . very happy so far except for the bump steer when I hit a bump the steering wheel jerks. no experience in bump steer or bump stop parts . so which one do I change or add ?thanks kully

just a question for mr j mortensen ,finally getting around to removing the e-12-80 module , to be honest I forgot about it , so you said to use the msd alone ,I have the ford pigtail and the colors in it are green and purple . in my zx dissy I have red and green that comes from the module.so I think you mean to wire green to green and red to purple would just like to check thanks kurt

also I am set at 16 degrees btdc right now .this is a great forum but it make you read way to much into things!!!

great thanks for everbodys help ,is the vaccum advance of 30 degrees to much for a stock f54 block with dished pistons n47 head and su carbs? car runs great with no ping or noise.or would I be better with vaccum advance disconnected and run 17 degrees timming plus 17 degrees of mechanical to make total 34 degrees

thanks leonv, I brought up the chart and only get small square boxes does not tell me anything on my pc . I had to download a microsoft program to open it. but nothing really comes up .it shows different dissy model# but no info

years ago I purchased a zx dissy from victory brit. brand new zx dissy #d6k8-22ar says made in japan.without taking it apart to find out advance timming does anybody know what the vaccum advance timming is on these dissy off hand thanks

let me know how the lca work out looks like a nice product. I do not know how much camber you can adjust with the lower control arms ,some I think . because I believe the tie rods will not give to much adjustment ,but a little is better then none.if you need more caster than the adjustment tc rods can give you can stick a few washers inbetween the ubracket and the machined washer provided you will see when you recieved them kurt

tlorber the tc rod will push or pull the lca forward or backwards .I believe you will have more movement with stock rubber bushings than poly bushings. but it does move

right now I have not had a alinement ,but when I purchased my early 260z in 1979 I did not no it was hit in front drivers side! when it was fixed by unknow bodyshop they mounted the tc rod support back a little to far and as a result my steering wheel was always harder to turn at slow speed like backing up and turning the wheel to go forward.the aliment shop in 1997 could not set caster to proper specs . we got as close to spec as we could ,I do not know or remember how far off, but I know it was off a little. back in 1997 I purchased from msa the nissan adjustable front caster adjuster kit .you really do not get that much adjust out it but it helped.the rubber bushing are now shot that came with it. so I decided to put the ttt tension rods on and set them about 1/2" past old measurements and what a difference .I measured the caster center of wheel to wheel and now I have 90.25" center to center.I need to get the car alined to set @ factory or should I increase caster a little?

we are looking at a 40 year old design did it work yes ! but with today tech. new and improved. I changed my caster by extending my tc rods longer and my z now turns much more easy with the steering wheel then before and the car handles alot better

these are much heaver, the stock rods are 9/16" od and the new ones are 3/4" od alot more rod diameter also I needed to be able to adjust .I do not think these will bend

well I installed the ttt adjustable tc rods today for anybody that might be thinking about them . the ride was tighter and more responsive,nice improvement over the stock rods with poly bushings .put about 20 miles on from smooth roads to semi rought roads and the feel in the steering wheel is not any more than the poly bushings these rods are very beefy as compared to the oem crap

I guess for those who need adjustable tc rods you could remove the helm joint from the rod couplings and make adaptors from the rod couplings to the frame mount and use the stock bushings again

thanks for your reply mike. when I purchase the 260z in 1979 I did not notice it was in a small accident and my caster is off about 1-2 degrees on the drivers side. so I purchased a caster adjusting kit from msa auto about 15 years ago and now the rubber bushings are starting to crack and split apart . now these bushings are no longer made so I can not replace them,so I am looking at these tc rods with deep interest. do you or can you tell me is there any feed back in the steering wheel ? I understand you only drove it for about 100 miles thanks kully

has anybody used these tension rods ? and if so can you give a report as to pros and cons. looking to be able to adjust my caster .I only found these so far .there rods bolt up metal to metal on frame support , no bushings used . I do not know if this is bad as far as feed back in steering wheel or does it not make any difference between using a urthane bushings ,or the metal on metal the way these bolt on to frame thanks kully

thats what I did l28 engine and e46 manaflod off of a 1971

my 1974 260z had a clicking relay the would do the same thing . found the relay by cycling the key and had someone feel for the relay that was clicking.then held the key to start position and had someone tap the relay a few times and it started . so bad relay replace or bypass like I did kurt

try to find the relay that is clicking mine was the interlock relay in my 1974 260z . the relay would not pull in all the way . if you find the one that clicks hold the key to start position and have someone tap the relay and see if it starts if it does replace the relay or like mine nla so I by passed it .kurt

my 1974 260z had been jumping around also with turn signals on some times lights etc this was after the 79 dissy upgrade .so I used the msd tach adaptor and no luck . spoke to the tech at msd and he recommended to use a relay and feed the tack directly from battery bingo my tach is dead calm works perfect . might be worth a try to feed it from the battery direct and see if it might be something else causeing the problem kurt

yes I did the swap over from a early 260 8/74 to a e12/80 dissy .the difference is night and day . starts easy and runs better all around . mine was the orignal auto dissy daul pickup where it retards 8 degrees after warm up for emmissions . I also used the msd 6a ingition and blaster coil . car never ran so good .

stephen I do not know if the vaccum delay would come on to hard or very gradual I have never used one . but I should hook up a vaccum gauge to my ported vaccum just to see what it is pulling at let say 2500 rpms.also check my timming advance also at that rpms to see how much it advances.maybe the is something to gain with the vaccum delay I will put that one on my list of fun things to play with. thanks kurt

hi stephen sorry to get back to you a day or 2 late ,as I had long work days. I am not sure if you knew but the 260 setup is replaced with a l28 /f54 block stock with n47 head , 1971 4 bolt su carbs ,e46 intake , jet hot headers,new 1979 e12/80 dissy .I tried the manafold vaccum and the motor seems to idle higher than ported vaccum .I still have the carbon canister in the car and had a bad smell all the time when I hooked the canister up to the manifold vaccum. my 1974 service manual showed the front carb/ ported vaccum hooked up to the carbon canister and with a tee inline to the dissy vaccum advance.so I tried it and the smell is just about gone at idle, and my orignal takeoff had a hestation which is gone all together now . you are right about my hybrid alot of different stuff but the car seems to run its best now . also my timming is set at 15btdc and it seems to idle very smooth now . not quite sure about the vaccum delay if it will work better but if you think so I would sure be willing to give it a try .kurt