kully 560

beezee I spoke to msd today and resolved the tach issue ,the bouncing or pulse issue was because they recommend on the 8920 to ground to the battery not chassy. also I had to refeed the msd8920 from another source such as not from the black/white tracer wire that feeds the msd 6a.and also feed the b term on the e12/80 dissy. it pick up pulse from the msd 8920 which caused the tach trouble.I feed the msd 8920 direct from the battery and my tach is perfect, with lights on or off.so I need to pick another source for power.I am going to pull my fuse box and detail and rebuild it for cleaner power as the oem is nla and msa says the 1973 will not fit.can not hurt as it is 35 years old. kurt

is there a difference between a 1973 240 fuse box and a early 1974 260 fuse box.like to upgrade my 260 one as the fuse holders are loose . msa only shows 1971 /1972 or /1973 thanks

i will check and let you know the results thanks kurt

beezee I found the tach output and tried wireing the white wire from the 8920 to it and left the msd6a white wire connected to the c term on the e12/80 .the tach works but not as good as before and now when the headlights are turn on the tach stops working alltogether.the other 2 black wires that went to the ballast resister I spliced together also.I remember when I talk to msd tech I thought they said I might need a capacitor in line that they would supply but just want to make sure I have it hooked up correct. at least the 8920 works somewhat but the 8910 did nothing at all!

I have the msd 6a with no tach output and the violet wire I thought from the 8920 was the tach output

I have a early 1974 260z with e12/80 dissy .installed the msd 6a with the blaster 2 coil .could not get the tach working with the msd 8910 so I pickup the msd 8920 tach adaptor. tach works but there is a little bounce there and also when the headlights are turned on it stops for a moment. I hooked up the msd 4 wire tach adaptor as follows black ground, red 12v switch power, violet to blue wire from wire harness in car which is the tack wire, white to white wire from msd 6a and also connects to c term. on e12/80. msd is closed today . is this the correct hookup thanks kurt

yes, I believe that msd told me that the 8910 is for positive side of coil and the 8920 is for the neg. side of coil . I ordered the 8920 so when it gets here I will give it a try, hope it works . it bothers me to have a good ingition now and no tach.i could install the autometer tach but it does not look like the orignal guages close but no cigar kurt

the tach stop working last summer when I installed the e 12/80 dissy. my 260 had the electronic dual pickup dissy in it which was the one for automatic cars. it retards timming when motor was warmed up for the emmissions crap back then. I tried several resisters in line with the blue wire but the tack just jumped aroung.thought I was close when I installed a 1 watt 7.5k ohm resister in line but then it was still never right. so that why I went with the msd .all I can say is the msd is worth every penny as far as the car runs big improvement .msd says the 8920 has a seperate wire just for the tach lead .they claim the current is to high for the 8910. but I see alot of people here use the 8910 . I read alot of posts and it looks like alot of 240 cars update with this msd and maybe the 240 tachs are different that I do not know kurt

thanks for the help I will pickup the 8920 it easyer to do this then change the tach kurt

thanks zforce but I have that diagram and my wire colors are different .I have a bk/wh color, blue solid color ,bk/blue color. I spoke to msd several times today each tech tells me a little different but all say at the end I only need the single tach wire which I think is the blue .one tech said to try the diode but still no good and then several techs said to order the 8920 tach adaptor???they can not get it straight.

I have a early 1974 260 z with msd 6a ,8910 , blaster 2 coil ,e12/80 dissy.I hooked up the dissy ,msd 6a and engine runs great. but I can not get the tack working! unplug the harness from the ballast resister and was left with 3 wires in the plug . black /white tracer,blue solid,black /blue tracer. there was a seperate 12volt wire in with the harness that I used for the 12volt switch feed,black with white tracer. I believe the blue wire runs my tack, when I hooked up the blue wire with just the coil and e12/80 on the neg. side tack would jump around. so I installed several resistors in line trying to get the tack working with no luck. so I went with msd equipment. still can not get my tack to work. I have the msd 8910 and tied the blue wire in with the white wire from c term. on e12/80 and car will not start. any solutions thanks kurt

thank you I thought so

I am reading so many posts on this that some people used the b& c on the e12/80 and I thought that someone did not use it they took off the e12/80 .so what to do?I just ordered it and want to be ready when it gets here I also ordered the tach adaptor 8910 . thanks kully

thanks everbody for the great info all I need to do is try to locate the solid lifters

I have a 1983 p90a head with hydraulic lifters ,orignal 14k miles .would like to convert it over to solid lifters does anybody know what parts needed and where to order them.I am running the n47 head on a f54 block now and would like to set this up for a spare, or if it might be possible to shave it down and replace for better head.thanks

thanks everybody for the help I did use the black wire with yellow tracer and splice on to it and ran it to the selonoid and work great thank you .

thanks I will give it a try kully

thanks stephen I was looking at that switchagain. I am going to open the switch up and look inside it. seems when I looked at it yesterday it felt like it is held in electricly. notice they talk about leaving the key in on position then pushing the switch .it felt like when you push the switch with key off it stayed in same position . buy when power is on it stayed in then release back to orignal position .I think it is a momentary switch .I will open it up today and let you know .thanks kully

so I have read to many posts getting confused ,are these msd 6 ingitions any better than the e12-80 dissy on stock L28 motors with early su carbs . as far as more power ,better low end performance ,tuneabality,reliability thanks

thanks I had to save it then open it . I do have the oem service manual but there is several relays involved like the interlock unit ,interlock relay ,seatbelt relay,and emergency switch,could be anyone of these and they are no longer available so I guess I need to bypass the whole system.that is why I was hopeing somebody might have done this already and can help thanks kully

thanks stephen but the site does not open

I have a new zx dizzy with a e12-80 module on a stock L28 motor with 4 bolt su carbs. are these msd 6a worth putting on or just leave the e 12-80 on thanks

i JUMPED THE SEAT OUT AND THE BELTS OUT SOME TIME AGO ALSO BUT STILL THE STARTER SELONOID DOES NOT WORK ALL THE TIME.MUST BE A BAD RELAY .i NEED TO BYPASS EVERTHING SOME HOW

I have a early 1974 260z with all the interlock relays ,seatbelt relay ,emergency switch etc. so if the car sits for a while or for no reason at all I try to start the car all I here is clicking.buonce the new key switch to start several times and all of a sudden the starter kicks in.now when this happens and I hold the key to start position and somebody taps the interlock relay under the hood, which is next to the seatbelt relay, then the starter works.so interlock relay must be bad and is no longer available need to bypass this system . anybody figure out how to bypass the relays and go straight the the starter selonoid thanks kully

I am not running the ballast resistor I took the blue wire from the tack and hooked it up to the neg. side of the coil and tried some resistors . tach works fine with orignal 74 daul pickup dissy got to be some way to get the tach working