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Got the body up on rollers. This will make working on the underside much easier. Should have the final items removed over the next couple days. Pics are below.

I had purchased what was supposed to be a NOS Kanto Seiki 240z ignition because it has the original steering lock buzzer wires. Turns out it’s either for something else or they increased the diameter of the steering column somewhere along the line. So since it won’t fit, and since it took the same key as my door locks, I scavenged it. Adapting the cylinder and switch to the later style housing was easy. It didn’t just drop in, but it was close. I rekeyed the cylinder with wafers I got from @inline6 and put it, the wires, and the buzzer switch into the aftermarket housing that came with my car. I was able to get a key made from the door lock code by a place in Australia called Keys4Classics. Super simple and not much money. I almost bought a rekeying kit off eBay, but I didn’t feel like spending the $80. FYI, the retailers that say they can sell them are just drop shipping them direct from ASP. I reached out to ASP directly and they said they can no longer make complete kits. The aftermarket lock cylinder uses pins and the asymmetrical oval key. The NOS lock cylinder uses wafers and the double sided VOSS key. Once everything was in hand it was about two hours of work, most of which was figuring out how to do it. The housing had to be drilled so the pin that connects the cylinder to the switch could pass through. I tried to mix and match the internals but it was sloppy and didn’t feel good, so it ended up being all of the parts from the NOS ignition inside the aftermarket housing. So now all my locks work off the same key… except for the glove box, but I have the wafers to fix that.

That'll do it. That's the same issue that inline6 had with his master. Stuck open. Cars really don't like to just sit. You need to get in and push the pedals a couple times a week just to keep stuff moving. Make "vroom-vroom" noises if it seems appropriate.

Found these in my misc. zip lock bags of Datsun hardware - so I am all set for the hardware now for the quarter window interior trim panels. I installed the rear hatch glass into another NOS rear hatch weather strip I had on the shelf. And, I again polished the stainless trim for the rear hatch glass, only this time, I installed it while the hatch glass is off of the car. I don't have any more of these weather strips on "the shelf"... so this one needs to go in without any problems!

I don't have any input into identification of what would be the correct advance canister, but I'm a little puzzled by the reaction you had with the one you tried. At idle, the vacuum advance should be doing nothing. In fact, you should be able to connect or disconnect the vacuum line from the canister with no noticeable effect. The vacuum source is a ported source, and there should be no vacuum in the hose when the engine is at idle. I'm not sure why your engine wanted to rev and then die.

Here's something I found real quick. Should have the numbers. Here's a Google search with alot of threads pertaining to the rubber seal... https://www.google.com/search?q=speedometer+connections+on+transmission+dripping+oil+siteunseen+classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&sca_esv=2c272caab9e83ec0&ei=ikoxZ6L7FeP9ptQPidvc2A8&oq=speedometer+connections+on+transmission+dripping+oil+siteunseen+classiczcars.com&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIlBzcGVlZG9tZXRlciBjb25uZWN0aW9ucyBvbiB0cmFuc21pc3Npb24gZHJpcHBpbmcgb2lsIHNpdGV1bnNlZW4gY2xhc3NpY3pjYXJzLmNvbUiU6AFQiYQBWKXaAXAAeACQAQCYAccBoAGfEKoBBDAuMTS4AQPIAQD4AQGYAgCgAgCYAwCIBgGSBwCgB_YE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp Hopefully this will help??

Here you go:

More progress on the tear down. Interior is just about cleared out.

The 1972 FSM says the ET is 15mm for the 5 inch wide wheels. I did not find documentation of what the earlier 4 1/2 inch wheels had for ET (offset), but I took some quick crude measurements comparing the 4 1/2 inch to the 5 inch wheels and it appears they added 1/4 inch to each side. If that is the case, then the ET would be the same for the 4 1/2 inch wheels.

I get the same error even when using a different browser, Safari and Firefox