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Use 3M Silicon seal or adhesive. Black color. Clean the paint surface around the pin holes (de-wax). Seal the pins in the holes with dabs of the silicon. The adhesive is much stronger. Use much less of a dab on the pins.

Wow!! Then you should use some other brand, i had really difficulty to get them of my fenders years ago and used some of black tape that looked more like sealant.. Till this day it sits there on my fenders being difficult to remove.. i never tried because i got other worries haha.. Maybe one needs to clean the emblems of any grease first? I never had that problem.. are you sure there wasn't a "collector" looking for very rare emblems? 🙈

I could believe it when you say they fit without those barrel clips! When i restore a car i weld those (alsways trouble) holes shut! Then i use some strong double sided tape in black. I know that on those Z emblems on the L and R side at the rear are 3 barrel clips (240z at least), they are often rusted.. When you go to use some double sided tape, put the tape first on the emblem and cut it to fit with a hobbyknife, then mark the spot where you want it with some tape (Just under the spot where you want it) and then place the emblem. You'll never loose it and can easy remove it with a thin wire and NO RUST EVER! 🙂

“We got to run on heavy, heavy fuel…” The gas tank is in, the vapor tank is in, all the fuel lines are clamped down, the filler neck and cap are in, the pump and sending unit are wired up, and the system is closed from the hard lines back. I got hung up because I forgot to refurbish the straps, so that knocked a day out while paint dried. I also never found the right filter bracket, so I picked up a shiny new one for a Suzuki outboard motor that holds the OEM Nissan filter perfectly. The only things I’m a little unsure about are the straps being less tight than before because the stainless Z Car Garage hooks don’t tighten as far as the OEM ones, and not having rubber boots on the sending unit wires. The plastic connectors don’t cover the nail terminals as well as I expected so I may need to make them more weather proof. No, I didn’t go with e85+ hoses. I struggled to find the right sizes in lengths shorter than 50 feet and got tired of holding up the project, so old school FTW. I did use modern stainless steel strap clamps, though, because I’ve read they provide a better seal than those OEM Nissan wire clamps. All the braided hoses came from JBugs California Pacific and are metric. The 12mm hose was the only troublesome one because the metal tubes want something more like 13 to 15 mm, but the 5, 7, 9, and 17 were perfect. The vapor tank hose with the shepherd’s hook bend you can still buy is 12mm also, so I guess we just have to struggle with that. So yeah, I can technically put gas in the car now. ⛽️

That looks really good. Maybe a flat or matte clear spray would keep them looking good for a long time?

This is a reminder to check your fuel hoses on a regular basis. My '78 280Z started losing fuel pressure overnight, making it hard to start. I had previously installed a check valve in the supply hose between the filter and the rail, so it always fired right up prior to this. I wasn't sure if the check valve had failed, or if there was something else going on. I was also getting some fuel smell, so I suspected that there was a leak somewhere. Upon inspection, I found a wet spot on the hose between the chassis supply pipe and the fuel filter. The Gates hose, which was maybe 10 years old, was failing at both ends. I swapped the hose and all is well again. I'm not sure why this particular hose failed since it's one of the newer hoses on the car. I replaced all of the FI hoses about 15 years ago. One end had an OE wire clamp and the other end had a regular hose clamp. Both ends looked the same and both were leaking. Luckily, the leak was on the cold side of the engine.