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Looks cool, but I'm having a little trouble reconciling this: I think you're way beyond having it "blend". I mean. c'mon... Fancy laser cut script lettering with a flashy gold background. With LED readout and a row of shiny chrome switches. And you're wanting it to blend? Hahaha!!

Be mindful of how you weld on the chassis. The chassis is designed to move in certain places and over welding can inhibit that movement and cause problems in other places. I'm not interested in a full frame unless I'm gonna race the car and need it to get through tech

I measured my original bumper and it measures the same as @jfa.series1. I also drew a line on the new bumper that traced the rear of the car. When the line was complete, they also matched your measurements. That said, I have a relative that can trim the excess off the inside of the bumper and everything should line up. It may take a week or two, so I'll report back when it's done. Thanks to all for your inputs.

Well, I got the car out for it first real test drive. Yes, no brake lights but it was on back roads away from other cars. I wanted to run through the gears and test the brakes and suspension out. Went pretty well. 1. lights are a mess, I knew this already. 2. Two leaks. One from oil pump, one of the bolts it appears but not from the main seal where it connects to timing chain cover. I will tighten but don’t want to break that bolt and I put the stainless bolts in there and I know they’re not as strong. I might need check the toque setting on those. 3. Transmission is leaking. One bolt on the casing. I tightened that bolt a little and looks okay but won’t know until next drive. 4. I’m getting a “clunking” sound from the rear end some where. Most noticeable when going in reverse or when accelerating rapidly and then coming off the gas pedal quickly. Seems like some play somewhere back there. Not sure where to begin looking. I had debated leaving the rear end alone for this coming summer season but I may have to get in there sooner. (I have a replacement differential from a ZX. Goal is all the bugs worked out by end of June, and have it a daily driver by then. Cars starts perfectly, runs smooth, and idles nicely. I only took the engine to 4K rpm just because the engine is still in break in mode. There is no engine hesitation at all, clean smooth acceleration. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One additional thought... How about making it the same accent color as the rear taillight panels and the grill, etc? That wouldn't directly blend with the color and texture of the console plastic, but it would tie in well with the other accents around the car.

That's what I would do. I wouldn't do it with the engine running though. I would shut it off first.

Hi Kats, The data I have is all from user submitted data or from cars I've managed to uncover chassis no.s for, usually from for sale listings or from licence plate reverse look up's. So it's patchy at best. But here is what I can tell you. HS30-01501 was on TradeMe.co.nz in NZ recently for sale (May 2020), according to the then owner, it sold new in Queensland Australia. Photo of how it looks now. HS30 01501 I've tried to determine what is the highest HS30 prefix car before reaching #2000 and the highest recorded number I have is: HS30 01973, I don't have photos of that car, but the next highest car is: HS30 01945 and I do have photos of that car. This car is also Australian delivered. The compliance date (date they arrived and were certified in Australia) seems to be consistently around Dec 1971. HS30 01945 What I've found is that towards the end of the chassis range, cars were sold in NZ and the UK. For example: HS30-01838 HS30-01839 HS30-01843 All appear to have been in NZ. HS30-01914 was sold in the UK. I think your guesstimate of 300+ cars is probably fair. What I noticed with HS30's (In Australia anyway) is that the 72 model year is by far the rarest model (compared to 70,71 and 73). I am guessing this is because Nissan ramped up production of Fairlady 240Z and Fairlady 240ZGs around this time period and perhaps made less HS30's for Australia, NZ, PNG, South Africa, UK, Hong Kong etc.. I do try and collect HS30 data outside of Australia, but getting VIN #s from Japanese cars is always a challenge as @HS30-H has informed me of strict privacy laws (I actually think this is a good thing) and to be fair I think the bulk export HS30s did arrive in Australia out of all RHD export markets and so that's where I've found most of the data. As you know I also own HS30 10552 which is a "72" model, but the date stamps on the seat brackets indicate Dec 71 manufacture date.

Thanks Kats, you amaze me with your knowledge!

Subframe connectors are the first thing that comes to mind for me. Available here: https://baddogparts.com/ Might want to browse Hybridz.org if you're looking to modify and do some chassis work as that site is geared more to that sort of thing. A full roll cage is off the table if you want to street drive the car though, unless you want to wear a helmet every time you drive it.

My center bar is almost a perfect macth for the curve on the valance - about 1/8" gap across the full length. No mods to the mounting brackets.