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Too late but they have low profile jacks that would work. At least you get to spend more time jackin' it.

There's not much reason to take the pans off and clean them. Extra time and effort and could lead to unexpected problems and leakage. Do you know why it has been sitting? They all "ran when parked" but there must be a reason. Some simple things that you can do are to open the fuel line between the fuel filter and the rail and see if there's liquid fuel in it. See if it smells like gasoline or sweet kerosene. Or Pine Sol. If it's dry or the fuel is orange-red and smells funny the injectors could be gummed up. If it smells like gasoline they'll probably be okay. After you check the fuel tank for rust and old fuel, refill it with fresh gasoline then run the fuel pump to push the old fuel out of the rail and injectors and get it diluted with good new fuel. Or break the return line back by the tank and push the old fuel out. Check that the breaker plate in the distributor isn't rusted. If it is the bearing cage will probably break when vacuum is applied on the first engine start. Lube it up before starting. Pop the valve cover and see how much rust is under there. Condensation can produce a lot of moisture over time. If there's rust then one of the oils with zinc additive might be a good idea. Many people don't use it after break-in but better to be safe. Valvoline VR-1 is popular. I think that NAPA carries it. Check the air filter housing and intake tubing for mice nests. It's one of their favorite spots, besides the air vents in the cabin. Squirt some oil in the cylinders through the plug holes and let it coat the rings before spinning the engine. Some of the valves are always open when the engine is stopped so there will be at least two cylinders with some surface rust on the bores.

Very hard to patch in the front fenders. They are thin and oil can easily. If I were going to start on that dent. You need to work from the edges in. Also the wheel arch will need to be worked as you work on it. I think what I might do is fasten the fender to the car. Then put a come-a-long with a hook in to the wheel arch right at the dent. Put a little tension on it then start dolly work. When you get the dented arch worked out some, then work the front bulge in some. Repeat... Also I would expect to have to do some shrinking work on a dent that is that large

Just thought I throw up some updates on my project. I have been chipping away at the interior since getting back from paint. The paint guy came by this morning to finish sanding and buffing. I love this car :) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Done. Ran into a few surprises (spacers aren’t relieved for an o-ring so I made a gasket out of Blue RTV, had to press the spacers on with a pile of washers and old hardware) but it was a straight forward mini-job. All torqued down and ready for bearings and discs.

Thanks I found one but this guy is asking crazy money for it. I will continue to pray for a PDF version...

My father was a panel beater and I grew up at the shop (my brother runs it now) I do not think he is using any filler. It looks like proper body work not what I saw in the USA which is basically filler based.

Blue is a nice colour! ? I went Lexus blue for a friend's car I helped restore:

This week I finally get the colour onto my 240z. It has almost been 12 months of work to get to this point, and it still has a long way to go, but it is great to reach this milestone.