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I agree with Av8ferg , but would offer 3k to 3500 and go up from there. Plenty of help on here for the simple efi system, no problem there. The rear hatch area appears solid, which is great. Looks like 110 color to me. Here is a 2 for 1 picture for you Cliff, me and a well known 73 240z....

You need to rotate the short arm that attaches to the motor 180 degrees. This should fix the running into the cowl problem (Don't ask me how I know that ?)

It's been pointed out by many that it can be a lot more fun -- on public roads, not a racetrack -- driving a low-limit car at its maximum, rather than being frustrated or intimidated by a high-capability that can't be used to its capacity. An MG-B or TR4 driven to their (meager) limits can be just as entertaining as diving into an off-ramp at 80mph in a performance car while only using 80% of the car's real capability. Fat tires look great, but they don't necessarily add enjoyment.

So I finally got to take this thing for decent drive last night. Other than a loose fuel inlet fitting on the fancy kyosanki thingy fuel pump that stopped me for a few minutes to figure out (sucking air is apparently not a good thing), this thing is freaking amazing! I rarely get to drive a bone stock, far from new L24 in a bone stock chassis,, but I have to tell you, this thing is not slow or boring. Torquey as hell! It's not my stroker, but its quiet and smooth and very well behaved. Well the Maxtor 185/75-14 tires make cornering a bit of a squeal and howl affair, but they spin real easy off a stop light which totally makes up for the cornering drama! Then there's that slightly crunchy 2-3 shift, that slightly wobbly A-Type trans stick feel, and the stock AM/FM radio blasting tinny tunes through a single speaker in the back, and I'm in old man heaven! Ahhhhhh I am totally not trying to sell it, I am actually quite surprised with how fun this old clunker is to drive. Maybe having a mostly stock 240 with body work you don't care about, isn't such a bad thing after all.

Been there, done that, have the marks on my cowl to prove it.

What! Here is a photo of one of the most beautiful sports cars on earth, and you see the house! ?

Call me if you want. I'll put SWMBO on the phone. YOU can ask...

You're a confident welder. Maybe you should stop trying to think about forming difficult shapes from a single piece of sheet. Yes, it can be done... but do you really want to go down that path? How about forming smaller sections and then tacking them together?

At Motorman7's request, today I visited the shop of Vintage Dashes to check out their dash to replace the cracked dash on my car. Their dashes are less than half the cost of Just Dashes. They do an injection mold and vacuum formed dash (similar to Datsun's original process, apparently) and you attach it to your existing dash frame. They currently are shipping 240Z Series 1 and Series 2 dashes, but not one specifically for the '73. However, the '73 dash is essentially identical to the Series 1 dash, so it looks like a good choice for our restoration. (subject to Motorman7's review of the photos I sent him!) A '73 owner posted the details of mounting the Series 1 Vintage Dash for a '73 here: https://imgur.com/a/vLTnkk9#8UVRDwF The Vintage Dash (for a Series 2) fresh out of the box: A Vintage Dash Series 1 dash close up of the area for the cigar lighter and emergency flasher: Picture of the metal brackets built into the inside of the dash for attachment to your existing frame: Picture of a Vintage Dash Series 1 dash with an original Series 1 glove box door. You can see in the close up the difference in grain, but looks pretty good to me. (Vintage Dashes may get around to new matching glove box doors in the future, but they are busy expanding their dash lines to 510s, 260s, 280s, and other marks, so I'm not holding my breath...) :

Even in this condition, I just love the shape of these beautiful cars. Below is this very car when new in 1973:

Pics from the paint shop

That’s what mine is. Check the sticker in the engine bay next to the radiator

Dustin, This is a labor of love as you probably experienced with your Ghia. (I like those car BTW). I have 2 VW Bugs. A 1965 and 1968. 65 has been stripped and painted but has no engine or steering column. Long story there...the 68 is stock and just needs some love and a battery tray. The EFI on the Z is very simple. I had to educate myself and was very frustrated at first to the point of almost switching to carbs. I was advised by guys here that might be more painful and costly. So I stuck with it, download the EFI manual for the car. It teaches you about the entire system and then has a detailed troubleshooting section. I discovered I needed a new ignition switch, fuel relay and ECU which I bought all on EBay for a total of about $100. Bottom line is I’m glad I kept the EFI. Yours runs so, you might just need to wire ends for the injectors (they usually need replacing). I bought a kit for $54 on eBay that has all the harness connections. Here is he EFI guide: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dustin, Welcome....I’ve been semi-restoring a 77 also. I paid about 2k less than your guy is asking. Mine didn’t run at sale (guy wasn’t mechanically inclined) and the interior had been completely stripped out (parts in boxes, except it had no seats). I got it running after lots of help on this forum (thanks Capt Obvious, Cliff, DaveM and Zedhead to name a few great dudes on his forum) and about $400 in parts and some bloody knuckles. My body was in better shape than yours and needed no rust repairs at all. It looks like the front of your car needs some parts and work, so I’d take that into consideration also. You’ll find some replacement parts for Z’s are very inexpensive and others silly expensive. Overall, they’ve very affordable to restore and parts readily available. The good news is they are fun cars to work on and fairy straight forward but sometimes you’ll need small hands to get to things. You’ll also get lots of help on this forum. I’d go in with a 4K offer and negotiate from there. These car are only getting more valuable and I expect to see prices continue to climb over the coming years. Rust has put many of them into a final resting place and there is a lot of interest in them in general. Here is a pic of mine at time of sale on a Trailer and the pics in the garage are recent.

Exactly. It depends on where you are though. We can't get redline MT90 here in Europe. But I'm using the classic line from Kroon Oils here, and that's about the same stuff I think. It's formulated for the old post war cars. Never had problems, and my 4 speed hasn't been open since new. There's a slight difficulty going in 2nd gear when cold, but when it's warmed up everythings fine. I'm only using everything from the classic oils line, for my mustang to. I won't put modern oil in these old birds...