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Don't forget I have 3798 for sale folks.... Numbers matching (except the dash, dang it..) Canadian edition. Most of the early stuff is there. Runs, drives, looks terrible. Rust is totally managable but very present. Alberta registration. Well 26 years ago.... I hate to put it on flea bay, but maybe I should, to get the exposure. I should make a proper for sale thread for it, shouldn't I? Only asking a mere $8K CDN, about $1.56 USD..... zkars.com/cars/1970_240z_HLS30-03798/

Good morning. I'm in a mood of distracted boredom, and thought I'd start a rousing games of "why'd they do that?", 'they' being the factory. I have noticed on more than a half dozen odd Z's that I would say are relatively unmolested, that the six bolts that hold the wiper arm pivots to the cowl are quite surprising. Five are identical, one, the same one on every car, isn't. Here we see on the left side, that the inner, rear fastener is a round headed machine screw, bereft of even a lock washer, while all the other five are nice hex SEMS bolts with the expected lock washer. All are of course M5x0.8 thread. Right side, all is happy with three matchy matchy. As those of you who have had the pleasure of removing this lovely flock of fettid fluffy fasteners have experienced, it is not enough that 4 out of 5 of the bolts snap off, but you have to resort to vise grips to get that lone round headed bastard, rendering its head beyond repair for future use, causing all sort of consternation and wringing of hands. This was recently observed on 3798 (pics above) and on a 73, VIN 127xxx. Can't say for sure what other years I've seen, but a good sampling. Let the speculation begin. Why in the world would they use one odd bolt in that group of six in such a systemic way? I think the assembler was a clever prankster, and revels in the joy of imagining the future angst he/she will have caused. Well congratulations. It worked.

Mine is what MSA calls a stage 3 like Moelk's. It's Schneiders 270/80F grind. Sounds like I'll be using the E31 as I've planned all along. I'm not looking forward to grinding those .190" lash pads down to size, I think will be .175 or .180. Thanks guys!

I have schneiders stage 3. Its a very mild cam. //Andreas

Don't recall what you guys have but mine is his 260-70F grind. My N42 block with N42 head does not have the compression to run anything more aggressive.

Mine has the ceramic coated header from MSA. Greatly reduced the under hood temps. I just found a point and shoot thermometer at work and am anxious to get some readings now that we are in the dog days of summer now. Might try to do that tomorrow and post the results?

As you have indicated, it is a combination of things. One thing not on your list that I find helps is to make it so that the metal fuel rail doesn't make metal to metal contact with the engine (or anything that mounts to the engine). Rig rubber grommets at the mounting points (engine side and bolt head side). Have also thought about eliminating fuel rail in favor of all rubber fuel lines. Only thing that stops me is loss of the original look. You could ceramic coat the exhaust manifold too. I haven't tested this but am doing it on a car I am putting back together so it is mostly theory.

Yes, Granny... Sorry, I was talking to you. I saw the feet and got all confused. Thanks for the info. I suspect the cast iron units are older and have been knocked around. I think the aluminum casting versions are newer. In theory, form, fit, and function should all be the same. In theory. And Zed, I've actually got SIX cylinders and five of them leak. One good one on the car, and one leaker, and then four old ones hoarded away in a box on the shelf. I have a bunch of old dead seals there too, but the old dead ones are even worse than what's on my car. I looked everything over carefully trying to come up with a combination I could just run for a couple days while waiting for new replacements, but to no avail. However...... Because I hate to lose (well, that and some OCD), I figured I had extra pistons, so I chucked up a piston on the lathe and started cutting: First one turned out OK, so I did a second. Original pistons and seals on the left, modified on the right with the smaller hole seals: Put seals on the pistons, and they look great. Looks just like the one that Granny got: They slid nice and snug into the wheel cylinder, and while this is a temporary fix, I'm hoping it holds until new replacements get here. Someone may ask why it's just a temporary solution? Because during the machining, it was clear that the piston was case hardened, and I cut through the hardened skin down into the softer interior. If I were to heat treat the modified pistons, they could become a permanent solution, but I could probably purchase a lifetime supply of wheel cylinders for the cost of that heat treating.

To mount my fire extinguisher I bought something called the Bracketeer. http://www.thebracketeer.com/ I mounted it in front of the passenger seat. It bolts to the factory seat mount bolts. The clearance is nice. It does not hinder the movement of the seat.

Those and many other NLA rubber bits are available here: http://www.240zrubberparts.com/ Great products from a fellow enthusiast.

I've read people use bike cables. I'd think you could buy that and remove the cable and just use the hard plastic tube?