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Why Series I and Series II As mentioned above - An attempt to keep things clear and simple; when Nissan sold one Model 240Z as both 1970 and 1971 Model Year 240Z's. Then introduced a second Model and sold it as a 1971 240Z. (aka “Late Model Year 1971”). Since two different looking models were sold as 1971 240Z’s - people wanted to know which 1971 Model Year was being discussed or sold or possibly being purchased. Early and Late in terms of calendar months or years - - really wouldn’t do - because the Series I 240Z’s were produced from Oct. 1969 - - - clear though Jan. 1971. Covering 3 calendar years - late in 1969, early in 1970, late in 1970 and early again in 1971. Series I and Series II simply give a distinct definition for identification. As to specifically which parts, components and features changed on the Series II 240Z’s - Nissan outlines some 18 Safety, Comfort and Convenience features - that were added or changed in the Series II (aka Late Model Year 1971’s). None of which were standard equipment on the Series I. All of which were introduced with the production of the Series II. See: SERVICE BULLETIN, February 1971, Vol. 137. “Introduction Of Datsun 240Z Sports, Model S30 Series (1971 Late Models). Pages 3 & 4. (URL’s below). To distinctly identify the new Model - Nissan assigned VIN’s starting at HLS30 21001.(again in the same Factory Service Bulletin) Past Series I and Series II - Nissan never sold the same model as more than one Model Year again here in the USA. All 72 & 73 Models were sold only as 1972 or 1973 Models. Although significant changes were introduced on each Model Year there was no real need to use Series designations for them.

Here's the latest update: All - ZCON 2018 host hotel will be at the Sonesta. In order to book your hotel, you may use the following link and Group Code. They promised to simplify the code after the new year, but this one works so you can get your hotel now. The event is October 16-20 in Atlanta, GA - the website is www.ZCON.org. Event registration will go live 1/1/18. Get booked now within the room block for $105/night with free parking and free wifi included. We've extended the group-block two days before and after the event for those coming in earlier or wanting to enjoy the area after the event. https://gc.synxis.com/rez.aspx… USE BOOKING CODE: 10166823ZC

That was my thought for water heat removal, get rid of hoses that might fail. Should get the carbs back from Z therapy around the end of December. Can't wait for that!

Can you link me to this 3/71 dated series one car? This is the one I was referring to: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-17/ I said about 20500 because I don't recall the exact number. It's not like there's a few series one cars with VINs 21000 and up. They are ALL under a certain VIN. As for build dates, most VINs correlate with a certain build month, but every so often there is an outlier, I would assume due to some sort of issue or event at the factory. If I am not mistaken, VINs were applied to shells in order, and date stamps were done as they were completed (can someone confirm/expand on that?), so if one shell gets held up for some reason, it will end up with a later build date. I am stretching my memory here, but that is my understanding of VIN/build date mismatches based on what I've read over the last decade. And once again, I am referring to the US market cars. I am not sure which part of my post you're referring to with your last sentence. I am only talking about US market cars. I think you are trying to apply an overly specific definition to the term "series one." As previously stated, it is not meant to apply to an exact selection of parts and features. And to be honest, I'm not sure if it really needs to have an exact VIN or build date cut off to be of use, even though I still maintain that there IS a VIN cut off, and save for a few outliers (actually just one that I know of), a build date cut off. Also, due to the fact that these cars are old, and many have been lost, we probably won't ever know the exact VIN cut off. Based on the information on zhome.com, the last reported series one car has VIN 20438, and the first series two car has VIN 21001, with the change over month being January 1971.

For sale is a set of 4 clips that hold the duct work to the backside of the hatch sheet metal and provide the location for the barrel clip that holds the vent grille on. Also known as a Tailgate Ventilator Clip. Please reference Nissan part# 90829-E4100 and the link below. These have been NLA for years and I discovered a personal need for a set. With the help of others I had a local sheet metal fabrication company produce a run of 100 clips which equals 25 sets. I needed a set myself and I am keeping an extra as a spare thus making 23 sets available. The clips are made of spring steel just like the originals and are clear zinc plated to protect against corrosion. Each set is $50.00 US shipped w/insurance & tracking to anywhere in the continental US. Shipping to Canada should not be too much more but reach out to me for a specific quote. There is a $5.00 discount for each set after the first if you purchase 2 or more sets at one time. Meaning 1 set = $50, 2 sets = $95, 3 sets = $140. Please review all of the pictures below. The clip in black is an original that was used to model the new clips off of. The new clips hold the duct work nice and tight to the under side sheet metal and fit very well in to the recess of the plastic chrome vent grille. Please ask all questions prior to purchasing. Payment accepted via Paypal and I will only ship to the Paypal address. Please DO NOT use the friends and family method. PM me for my Paypal email address or mailing address as check is welcome as well. I will ship out each set within 2 business days of payment being received. Original link - http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57001-series-1-hatch-vent-duct-clips-restoration-info-needed/

I ran the factory design for years. After I rebuilt the motor I read up on what I could delete to simplify the engine bay's looks. It'll run fine in my opinion with the coolant flowing. I eliminated potential hose failure is all. Nothing to do with performance. Hopefully you'll have it on the road soon.

tzagi1, Thank you for taking the time to type in the gasket making information. I wondered what type of cardboard might work. siteunseen, Not knowing a lot about carbs I left the carb water heating hooked up with my only reasoning being that the manufacturer knows more about carbs than I do, though I am willing to do independent thinking too, and to take advice from forum members to possibly remove carb water heating. I live in a warm Arizona climate. I should be able to evaluate carb performance in this climate better once I get them reinstalled on the car and have an opportunity to drive the car when it is really hot. Since I recently relocated, I haven't been here for the hot part of summer yet.

I have had a few people reach out to me about the clips on eBay. I am going to reach out to the fab company after the holiday weekend to get a quote and lead time on having another run of 100 clips made which would be 25 sets. If anyone is interested just let me know.

$105 is a great rate. Thanks Steve. That's better than driving back to Alabama every night. Most likely "sleepy".

Americans... late to the table! Thanksgiving was a month and a half ago!

I've also done some customization work to my 77. It's a "Stage 1".

http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/classic-cars/a12150764/the-car-that-started-the-jdm-tuning-scene-turns-50/

I can't say for sure that I've had vapor lock, but the engine (even with rebuilt carbs) has never run well. My carb's run much better now with the electric fuel pump. My guess is that my 40 year old mechanical pump was the issue, probably a bad diaphragm. I did remove the mechanical pump completely, along with a block-off plate. I do have a NOS mechanical pump that I've got on the shelf, but I like the idea of running an electric pump in this driver. More pictures of the wiring to come soon.