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Mine is obviously better because it costs 50% more Dennis

Sounds like you are making good progress. The rear seal is expensive via Nissan. Not sure why, compared to the front crank shaft seal which is about $8. The rear will cost $30 at your local Nissan dealer. Part nr: 12279-2B500. The size of the rear seal is 80/100x10mm if you want to try aftermarket. Should be about $5 to $10. While you are at it, I would replace the transmission rear oil seal and the selector bushes (pin bushes and ball bush). The seal and bushes will set you back about $22 in total via Nissan. Change the oil. Most recommend Redline MT-90 gear oil. Suitable for brass synchros. Selector bushes and rear transmission oil seal. https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-bushing-lever-32861n4200 https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-bushing-32855h1010 https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-extension-housing-seal-32136u010a Note: The 32136-U010a replaces the original oil seal 32136-U0100 Word of wisdom when selecting your clutch. Make sure you compare the height with the new with the old. So many people get into trouble with the throwout bearing collar height. If you do this quick procedure with the old clutch and pressure plate, you will know what to expect with the new old. Sort of a practice run. If you already removed the pressure plate then keep going and remove the flywheel. Once you have it out, lay the flywheel on a table or bench and assemble the clutch disc and pressure plate. The disc doesn't need to be lined up perfectly, its just to measure the height of the throwout bearing collar. Position the throwout bearing and collar on the pressure plate and messure the height from the clutch fork contact points to the flywheel surface. It should come to 92mm. The worn clutch disc will make it a little more, but 92 is approximatly where it should be. Do this same procedure with the new clutch. 30 minutes checking this could save you hours of frustrating re-work. There are four different throwout bearing collars and a lot of people get them mixed up with the pressure plate. Nearly always requires removing the tranny and fit the correct collar to solve it.

sorry site, i havent logged on in a few days. thanks for the pics! yes, put your carb back on

The rally jacket will be a difficult find, but there's currently a Datsun dealer jacket on ebay for $110 - size medium. As for this thread being alive, you just resuscitated it. Dnnis

Ok, it's been a while since I gave an update, so here it goes! Every wire in the car, from front to back, has been redone, replaced or discarded. The car runs on what is needed. No heater, no fan controls, no radio, no antenna switch - not even the fuel light was spared. The car runs on only what's needed, nothing more and nothing less. The issue with the idle and pilot jets is resolved, too. Idles and runs on all six cylinders now! I'm not sure what did it, but I replaced my filter, cleaned my tank, cleaned out the carbs as best as I could and messed around with the idle mixture - and eventually it worked! I've spent many hours now diving into every piece of literature I can find on DCOE carburetors and I've surely learned a lot to the point where I feel very comfortable working on these guys. What I couldn't find much on was what parts of the DCOE family (Weber, Mikuni, OER, Solex, etc.) is interchangeable - specifically talking about jets. What I learned is that Weber idle jets work as long as you get the appropriate seats for them. Mikuni Air Correctors work on these carburetors, too, and fit right into the emulsion tube. The mains, however, only seem to fit with OER ones. I went through a lot of different setups to find something that works for this engine and so far the perfect recipe seems to be: Mains: 135 Air: 160 Idle: 65(OER)/65F9(Weber) I am currently running 62.5 pilots, but it's a tad bit too lean when cruising. i've tried 70F8's and 70F9's and they're both too rich. My guess is that 65's should fit in perfectly, but they're still on their way from Japan since I'm going with the OER one. The F9 designation on Webers is the same as the OER. I also got a wideband hooked up now so I can get proper readings on this thing. At idle I'm currently sitting at 12.7-13 AFR, it goes up to 14 when cruising under 2kRPM (should richen up a bit with the 65's) and I get in the mid 12's at WOT, which seems to be the sweetspot for this engine.