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But on my map it's only a couple of inches away...........

What's a new clutch & flywheel replacement job cost on a 2006 Lamborghini? Think the $1,200 daily rental fee would cover it? A sports car club I belonged to many years ago used to put on slalom events and one of the regular competitors would always show up with a different rental car each time. Dennis

Keep an eye out for complete cars. Many old Z's are out there, not running, but still with good parts. ZX's too. Any Z or ZX up to 1983 would have an engine, transmission, and rear differential that will swap in to your 240Z. I bought a 78 280Z just for the transmission, but the engine is in my car now, and runs great. It sat for 10 years. $300 and $100 for towing. But that was a while ago.

Here it is, Read what Carl Beck says.

One bit of advice, don't rush it. Obviously, this is not your daily driver.

I wouldn't buy it. It's missing many parts. It's been taken apart and slapped back together. There's a lot of risk there, the engine needs to be torn down and checked out, unless you really know and trust the guy selling it, and trust his skills also. Looks like a nightmare, even without the horrible green paint..

Courtesy of Z Car Garage, here's a brief view of John and the re-created BRE #46 at the Monterey Rolex. http://tinyurl.com/yc4st2jh

only need to get it below the sending unit. so if its actively leaking you will need to take it down until it stops. prob 3 or so gallons off full should do it. having it tilting forward will make it more likely to leak. you could just loosen the ring and see what happens, if it starts to leak tighten back up and drain some more. the chocks are a good idea, but what you want to prevent is the ramps from collapsing.

Yeeeeeeaaah I'm with you! These 1 off "CONVERSIONS" if you will, seem to take away more than they add. Seems to ruin a beautiful design. At first glance I didn't even know it was a Datsun. I one one in SOCAL years ago and felt the same then. Too bad to ruin such a nice machine.

could be a high resistance joint at that connector. On mine the Positive lead of the starter is also where the wire that goes to the fuse links (and rest of the power supply for most everything else) is tapped. Since you are getting low voltages at the cars voltmeter and I presume at the fuse block (inside the car), I would start with just making up some new battery cables, esp if the ones you have are the least bit suspect. You can confirm a lot of stuff by reading the voltage at the fuse box with a load on like the ign key in the on position. If there is a high resistance somewhere there will be a voltage drop. Measure the voltage there with a multimeter. If its low then start working your way back to that starter connection. Another clue is with a heavy load like the headlights on the resistance will present with heat. So turn on the headlights, ign off, feel the connector at the starter, it should not be warm. Some clarification is in order, there is a solenoid that electrically is a high current switch. one side is connected to the starter motor windings, the other to the battery thru a big wire, nothing in between. there is also a smaller wire with a spade connector, this goes to the ign key, used to activate the switch and the engagement of the starter gear with the flywheel ring gear. The wire harness has a large gauge wire white IIRC that shares the same connection to the solenoid as the big wire to the positive of the battery. This wire goes to the under hood fuse links via the wire harness. The negative of the battery is connected to the starter physically and electrically by a mount bolt used to hold the starter to the transmission bell housing. All these wires need to be low resistance connections of a wire gauge suitable for providing the starter with the current needed to crank the engine without a significant voltage drop. there are fuse links that are also separate from the fuse link boxes, they are the ones that feed the EFI directly from the battery terminals (not at the starter but at the battery post). they plug in and can have corrosion issues.

Kind of thought of it but not sure they would be interested in something like this. I've never sold anything to a business, though I guess I might could ask just to see what they say. I see, so a kit consisting of the front lower section of the quarter panel, the rear sections of the inner and outer rockers, the rear tie in plate sandwiched between the rear section of the rockers ( not sure what its called), and possibly the lower part of the door jam, also perhaps the lower front part of the wheel well. I'll have to think about that, it would indeed be a nice repair kit for the dogleg area.

Great info, thanks for sharing!