Leaderboard

Incorrect. The 280Z does NOT have relays in the headlight circuit. All of the current for the headlights go through the contacts in the headlight switch. This means the contacts can foul, just like they do in the 240Z switches. Therefore, the 280Z would benefit from a conversion to relays. The catch is that the connectors changed between the 240Z and the 260Z. While Dave Irwin @Zs-ondabrain was able to source the 240Z connectors, he could not find a vendor that had the 260Z/280Z connectors. That is why there is not a plug and play solution for the 260Z/280Z. Dave has made custom relay harnesses for owners of those cars who have supplied their own connectors. Keep in mind that a voltage drop will severely curtail light output of the headlights. (https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html) About 16 years ago I did a relay conversion to my 240Z. The voltage at the headlights (with the car off) went from 9 to 12 volts. That means the headlights were about twice as bright as before.

I pick up one of the last sets of nos from nissan about 4 years ago and they cost around $350 each back then.

For comparison purposes only here some Nos original NISSAN/Datsun rear lights.. for these i've seen prices ... 2850 dollar... These are brand new bought by me in the '90's..

I've got a new set..but under a 1000 euro not selling.. new old stock.. over here (Netherlands) these are rarer then hens teeth.. And the same for the other parts on the pictures.

Alrighty the wife went to bed so I went back to the garage! I got it! I started at the front. With a very small wire 1/64 from ace, I folded over the end made very tiny teardrop on the end. Hooked to my drill, I could only go 29". It would not go any further. I cut the return line right at 30". The blockage was at least 6" long and rock hard. I ended up cutting back it so only 6" stuck past the firewall. I even tried to drill it and had a difficult time. I know the car sat a very long time. So now that the front was open I put the weed eater line back in. Amazingly it would only go as far in as it did in the back. Within a 1/2". I went back to the back and tried that way, same result, right at 6'. So with Stanley's idea, I grabbed a new bicycle cable I had laying around cut the end off and Inserted into my drill. With it spinning and right at 6'4" long I was able to get it through! I switched from front of the car, to under the car by the tank a couple of times and had good results. I thought for sure the weed eater line would now go through, nope! Anyway,I put a rag over the engine bay side and blew air through it and the rag shot right off. I really want to get the weed eater line through to really clean it out. You can see the return line right on bottom side of the starter and the bike cable in the drill at the bottom left.

front air dam finally painted and installed and msa swaybar kit installed. the rear went in easier than i thought it would

This might give you some ideas, http://kyushashoes.com/

Overnight from Japan if we have to....

What did you wind up doing re. stretching? I restrapped my seats ( very poorly) close to 25 years ago with a kit from Victoria British/Black Dragon. The included hog rings and pliers were a real pain in the arse if I recall correctly and have not held up over the years. Part of the pita was stretching the straps, what did you or anyone else who may read this do? I'm about to rebuild my seats (covers, foam, straps) and want to do it right this time. Just curious, has anyone ever just welded a metal plate to the bottom of the seat frame to replace the straps?

With the possible exception of Jalex's Z in Panama.