Leaderboard

Yeah I saw the Eastwood hot lamp system. How the heck to control temperature properly or is it that forgiving? I think I'll buy another matching cheap toaster oven, chop the ends off of both and "merge" them. Just imagine the roll of duct tape around and around the seam.. Think Red Green.

I fixed the arcing - loose wire. The hood is painted and on the car. Just wanting for the interior vinyl and carpet to arrive so I can install and put the windshield in.

So I have the beast up on jack stands working on the exhaust, and thought I'd post a couple of pics so you see the incredible un-touched un-rusty ness of this thing. Please ignore the green coloration in some pictures. its the "filter" I have on the halogen light. I know I have a bit more scrubbing to do, but I wanted to show the never un-coated (or very very perfectly removed undercoating at some point) underside. I've stripped and coated everything from the firewall forward and rear suspension area back, but left the middle alone to prove the starting point quality. Nothing to hide here. The front of the frame rail/TC rod pocket is in the coated area here, as is the area above that where the re-inforcing/doubler plate is located. The messy stuff is painted seam sealer around the plate, not coated rust flakes! Really! Honest! Crappy shadows..... I think I'll leave the exhaust wide open like that.... End of the frame rail. Flat, clean, un-scathed.

I think the $200k is mostly for the badges, if you look at the numbers for the s20 it's not really a very impressive engine, small displacement, very heavy, something like 440lbs and it only put out 130ftlbs of torque. What's all the fuss about? Nice badges though, worth every penny.

Also, failed to mention that the two motor bearings wear over time . Again this is another part that is bad about 98% of the time. These bearings are very critical and SUPER small. I have to make these from nylon on a mini lathe. If you use anything other than nylon you risk damaging the shaft that supports the motor magnet and the flywheel. In addition, I see where Capt Obvious is going with the feed thru. I have eliminated the feed thru in several osc' without problems , but again I don't have a way to test for hi freq RF. If you replate the cover the acid plating bath destroys the feed thru, causes the center terminal to short to the housing. Something to think about. Ron Ron

The good news is that I don't have to drop the tranny...find out that it was an easy fix....replaced both the clutch master and the slave and I am in business again..... The weird and good thing is ...I found out after hard looking that the clutch master from 68-72 Datsun 521 Truck will fit the C110!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/172307594988?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT OLD Parts!!!! New Datsun 521 Truck Master

I just received this from Gavin and guess I will give my input. Basically Monkeyman has the correct color code and wiring diag for the original Osc box and clock body, Aug 30 posting. There are 5 wire colors in the harness and I would and do keep them original. This way we can all be on the same page. Black-- ground blue-- 13.6 vdc red wire/ green stripe---13.6vdc for motor red wire/white stripe--signal for motor (A) red wire/ yellow stripe--signal for motor (B) There is a power feed thru on the Osc cover and this is where the red wire for power to the original ckt bd is attached. Also the green wire is attached here and provides power up the harness to the motor, motor power. The feed thru is isolated from the case of the Osc. Not sure what this "Com" is on the purple board , but please tell me what is it's function? I'm currently on vacation, but when I return I will lay out a RC clock , harness, and Osc and show where everything goes. There are also other items that can prevent the clock from functioning after you get the wiring sorted out. The main motor gear in most of the clocks I have seen are cracked or missing teeth. The OEM gear is casting wax. It can't be repaired and needs to be replaced. No one makes this gear and I ran into this problem so many times I had a mold made and manufacture my own. My gears are made from a very hard plastic. Another problem is the clock lever or pawle(sp) which keeps the motor running in the correct direction. What goes bad are the two nylon disks that act as friction disks. If they are very bad they affect the motor speed by causing excessive friction. Just my 2cents Ron

Done! Payment received. Thanks.

You should have a visitor this weekend... Put on your sales hat!

Blue, I did it too much, it should be just on top of the stud bolt. I see Nov 1969 Tokyo motor show car has yellow painted on the bolts of shock towers, very cool. My 240ZG has sitll yellow paint little bit on the bolt. Kats