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http://www.bransonzfest.com/ The annual Branson get together in coming up June 2nd thru the 5th. I'll be there for the first time. Arriving early on the 1st. It's at a new hotel this year, the Honeysuckle Inn & Conference Center. Very reasonable group rate. Should be a fun time. Already getting my luggage & accessory planning together .....

Since I am heading that way, would like to have me bring the "Badass Beer" that is languishing in my refrigerator?? Seems there are a few Bush's too. Might be time to rotate the stock.

Found it. Taiwan Piston. https://www.google.com/#q=tik+pistons http://www.tik.com.tw/ You have a mystery here.

Tomorrow i finaly found some time to bring my car home from the engine builder. Hoping for a great 180km drive home and then i guess ill have to put another 300km before i let it climb up in the higher rpms. Timeing is set at 19 at idle and shows 36 at 3500 rpms and No detonation issues.

Ahhhh the perfect food, I mean luggage, beer...

I wonder if those pistons were in a properly sized hole? Maybe too tight, maybe too small...got jambed up or tight and cracked off the ear on the skirt. Anyway mystery solved. For what its worth, cracked piston skirts and rings will make your Datsun smoke...

It's looking good, KiraK. When you're finished with the refresh, you'll have to take it over to Cars and Coffee in Henderson one Saturday. I'm going to be bringing mine soon, and I've seen a couple of other S30's there in the past two weeks. Anymore, and we'll be able to start a local club! (lol) Mike

Just out of the paint booth! Not yet sanded and buffed. She's currently on her way to upholstry for a full clean, seat repair, antenna, install of soundproof padding throughout... Too much to list. I'll keep you posted as the progress continues! Such fun! K The lil z lady

Damn, It runs good!! 200km done!

Responded to you, Kira. Hey guys, I am investing money into my detailing business and could really use the funds that come from these sales. Please let me know what you'd like and I'll put a reasonable price on it. Ready to move this stuff!

There are lots of things that can cause a chattering gear stick. This is a typical frequency related rattle and can be caused by several things. Frequency and momentum. If you have worked on gas turbines you wil, have heard of critical speed or critical frequency. Google "critical speed", "rotordynamics" or "Rayleigh and Ritz theory" and read all about it. Certain speeds in second are ceating a critical speed for the transmission and selector components. Worn selector bushings are a common cause of noise in such a situation. Check if someone changed the gear selector knob for a heavier version. That can change the dynamics of it all and generate noise. Try removing the gear knob and take it for a test drive. Siteunseens transmission mount is another good one. A sagging transmission mount may look good, but because it has saged so much the metal pieces in the mount contact at certain frequencies. Check the selector for excessive movement and the transmission mount. Check wwwatlanticz.ca in the replacing diff mount tech tips for an examlle of a bad mount. Its a diff mount, but gives you an idea of the problem.

exactly. there's a reason there are so many on the road - it just does it all effortlessly and engages neither the senses of the driver nor those around it. perfect getaway vehicle!

From Hasting Rings; STARTING PROCEDURE 1. Set tappets, adjust carburetor and ignition timing as accurately as possible before starting engine. 2. Start engine and set throttle to an engine speed of approximately 25 miles per hour (trucks, tractors and stationary engines one-third throttle) until the engine coolant reaches normal operating temperature. Then shut down engine and retorque cylinder head bolts, recheck carburetor adjustments, ignition timing and valve tappet clearance. (Run engine at fast idle during warm-up period to assure adequate initial lubrication for piston rings, pistons and cylinders.) BREAK-IN PROCEDURE 1. Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour at least ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating. Where I live we have some pretty good mountains not too far away from home. I have always read and been told to pull the hills and not get over 3,000 rpms then go back down the hill letting the gears slow the car, not using the breaks. Don't hold a steady RPM, run it up and then let the gears slow it down. The engine decelerating itself forces the rings out against the cylinder walls, I was told that on my first rebuild and followed that and have good compression. I believe in the "break it in like you're going to drive it". Don't baby it.

Hi gang, just wanted to update and thank all for your horn help Actually, nothing quite yet to report, as I'm still knee deep in getting my paint work completed, then she heads for Upholstry, after that I'll be tackling the mechanical issues, including my horn gremlin! I'll keep you all posted as soon as I get to the mechanical items. As of yesterday my girl is getting ready to put her makeup on , see below...

Anybody following: First of all David Premo is a genius - without a doubt. I have spent $$ hundreds in past jetting with the hope of finding the correct jetting combination. Digging and hoping to read a post somewhere that would be the "magic one". It's all the blind, leading the blind..........David Premo is the real deal for anybody wanting to tune their Mikuni's right......the first time.........period. His advise is spot on. The knowledge he has for our fuel systems is dead on perfect. My AFR meter is more consistent with less wild swings - the sound of the car is much better - faster power - much better acceleration - faster startup - less smoke - less fuel smell - plugs look better - faster idle time........and all this for a few jets and a few parts and pieces along with few phone calls! David nailed it with 3 sets of new jets for me (naturally through trial and error I have way too many jets at this point from previous purchases. Now I have a jet collection that I have accumulated over the past few years that absolutely has nothing to do with the true jetting of my car..........like I said - the blind leading the blind needlessly! If you want your jetting done right - make a phone call to David - you will be surprised what has been hiding in your Mikuni's for years! See my attached worksheet for details ( I do have an issue with my cylinder #3 that I will have to work on this winter) Looking forward to getting a little dyno time in this summer to see what the difference is based on my last one from a few years ago with improper jetting. Mikuni Tuning Master - BEST EVER 03MAY16.xlsx

Here's how I rewired an aftermarket antenna to function with the Datsun up/down switch & original wiring. Works perfect and very low cost. http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/05/amfm-antenna-upgrade.html

On my 280 you can't separate the telescopic antenna from the motor, it has a plastic toothed cable that runs inside of them. You can buy a universal power antenna for about $30 bucks. Here's a write up on tricking the up and down swith that 240s have. ID #10, or the tenth post. Thanks @Mike for putting those up for us.