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Mine has a knob at the bottom of the handle for regulating the pressure. A pattern knob on the left side up top. Flow knob on the back up top. I use more pressure but less material flowing. Get a big ole cardboard box and test spray until you're happy. For me very light coats work best. Tighten the material flow knob. At the worst, dig out the instructions. Oh yeah, I thin mine about half and half. Good article on set up, http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/set-up-hvlp.html

I have a 73 240z with tokico illuminas. Wheels are konig 15x7 and 0 offset. Tires are Dunlop 205x60. No issues at all. http://www.garaget.org/?car=339019

I'll bet that you could make it work. Drill some new mounting holes, which will probably be easier than drilling out the original broken off bolts. And make a new hole for the radiator drain plug, if necessary. I have two 280Z pans, but they don't have the center hole for the radiator that my new radiator needs. So I'll be modifying anyway if I decide to reinstall it. I think that only one bolt came out clean. Just went and looked at mine though and realized it's three dimensional. Two different levels of mounting points. Not just a flat piece of steel. So there might be more to refitting than just drilling new holes.

Hi Dan - I hear ya! I've been oggling the nice job you did on yours! I can't wait to one day be in the same postion! You did a great job for sure. But, as you said, I built a couple cars for other people, y'know, to pay the bills....which put my projects ona bit of a hold. I did however get some work done on the suspension and had the tank sandblasted so I could do some repairs to it and apply some POR15.... Even when I'm only working on my own stuff, I end up splitting my time between several projects at any one time! Aside from the 240Z, I have also been updating my 67 Galaxie, my 46 Mercury truck (outside) and begining the build on my 1927 rod:

From Pertronix Instructions: "The Ignitor ignition can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 1.5 ohms of primary resistance on eight cylinder engines and 3.0 ohms on four and six cylinder engines. For optimum performance purchase and install the recommendedFlamethrower high performance coil." When it says 3 ohm coil for 6 cylinder, that is if you bypass the ballast resistor.If you keep your resistor like I did so my tachometer would work, then youuse the 1.5 ohm Flamethrower coil. The MSD Blaster coil is less than 1 ohm and will not work.

Spoofan, I wouldn't assume that all of the chunks, little bits and tiny flakes of that cam made it to the bottom of the oil pan where you cleaned them out. I would be willing to bet that some of that fractured cam is still hung up in the oil gallery. All it would take is the smallest piece finding it's way to the rod or crank bearing surface and you would be looking at a complete rebuild. As you mentioned it's best to take the patient route, flush the inside of the block down, make sure there is nothing hiding on the crank. Chris

E-tek just because you finished a couple of nice looking cars does not let you off the hook as to who won the race. Dan