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I'm starting this thread to keep track of my findings, but please chime in if you have any thoughts, suggestions or critisisms on the matter. The engine is a fresh 3.0L Rebello "Full-on" package, which have my zTherapy 4 screw round tops bolted to it, on a smoothed balance tube, and a 6-2-1 header. Compression is said to be 10.1:1, I noticed the head is slightly ported, and the valvetrain noise is overly aggressive even with a fresh lash adjustment. Cam is a '99DI', IIRC, which Dave himself said runs very loud. Rebello Racing bored these to 48 mm, and as it appears did some crazy grinds on the needles to put down 282 HP on my dyno sheet. That said, my experience with the tune has a been a little frustrating. For starters, this engine will not idle. With suspicions of the car running overly rich, I purchased an Innovate DLG-1 dual wideband gauge to monitor with banks of my header at the 3-2 collectors. The gauge has told me a lot, but most importantly that the engine IS running rich. How rich? With the float levels at 20mm from top of bowl, at 3 turns down (2.96 mm by caliper), I'm putting down 9.1-10.1 AFR at WOT, through the rev range, and >20 AFR at an idle of 800 RPM. With the float levels at 20mm from top of bowl, at 1.5 turns down (1.48 mm by caliper), I'm putting down 10.8 - 12.4 AFR at WOT, through the rev range, and the engine is much snappier above 2000 RPM, but below it has no power and will idle for only a few seconds with the idle screws generously opened up. I suspect these fancy looking needles may have some, if not ALL to do with these problems. Thanks goes to Blue for walking me through uncovering them. With the amount of material removed, it seems to be that I need to set the mixture to be excessively lean to compensate, leaving no fuel for the engine to idle on. I'm going to try playing with these a bit, and am pondering the idea of spinning some SM or stock needles a little to see how it effects my specific engine. In the mean time, I'm kind of wondering if setting these needles set higher into the piston, or filing off a tidbit of material at an idle/low end position may assist with the idle issue.

I finally got around to installing the new headliner in the Z, which was missing when I bought it. It wasn't too bad, was somehow able to do it without a second pair of hands. I strung baling wire from the upper mirror mount to the interior light to drape it over as I worked it into place. Then dropped each side to spray the glue and attach. so here's the before: And the after: Still missing one hanger

Andy, I had a similar problem, though probably not as severe as yours. There is a part on your dizzy called the "assy-terminal" mounted on the lip of the dizzy under the cap, part # 22403-18005. It is a white plastic isolator which makes the electrical connection to the dizzy. If you remove this white plastic part and inspect it for cracks or deterioration, you may find that with this type of deterioration, as old plastic is want to do, could be causing a random grounding issue causing this intermittent problem. Replacing this little plastic part solved my surging, bucking, power problem and may take care of yours. FWIW, Dan

I hope you are lucky like Dr 240z and I were. I did the old-school non-detergent 30wt correct break in on a new Delta reground set of rockers, Delta cam, correct new lash pads and new Crane springs and retainers with lots of break-in grease and great oil flow before first fire up. 30wt was again used at 50miles with a new filter. Mobile 1 oil synthetic was used after 500mi. The cam was eaten ~ 1,500mi. 2nd try was a new Schneider cam and new reground Delta rockers with ZDDP oil treatment. One rocker started to fail but it looked like a manufacturing flaw like Grannyknot's. Swapping in a refreshed rocker did the trick. From this experience I think the metallurgy, quality of the machining, spring pressure, and the oil additives are all important for correct break in and long life.

Well......I pulled the trigger and just ordered these. They are the BC coilovers from JPN Garage. They've been getting pretty good reviews over on Hybridz. I'm pretty disappointed in how my Eibach springs are sitting really high in the back. Plus I would like some camber adjustability. Has anyone else tried these?

In case it was lost in translation, the emergency start button on 260Zs bypasses the interlock system. It is not a remote starter switch!

If you aimed higher you could have had Grilled Chicken...... groan.

i always got flummoxed by the clock analogy - for me it's easier to lay a straight line from rear side of one bolt hole to front side of the other and line up the tang that way...