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Those are $20 parts at any parts store or online at amazon or rockauto. Get the cast impeller water pump, it'll last longer.

you've been busy. if you overheated, it's very possible that the head warped - been there. a new head gasket won't fix that. when the head comes off, you can pull the rockers out (keep them organized by cam lobe in an egg box) and see if the cam still spins freely in the towers. any resistance and your head is likely warped. it's also possible that your coolant passages are filled with crud. the situation: small leak, owner tops off w/water over and over and eventually there's not enough antifreeze in the mixture to prevent rust. then a "stop-leak" additive is put in, which is gloopy stuff that plugs the leak, and happy owner drives on having "fixed" it. meanwhile the block continues to rust, and rust particles + gloop = sludge which can block water passageways - been there. when you have the head off, check the water passages and flush if needed. i yanked my frost plugs and used a pressure washer, which blew gobs of crud out of the motor. head bolts, if 40 yrs old and never been messed with, can freeze up and break when removing - been there. you can re-use 'em, but for $60 (courtesy nissan) a new set is great insurance from having them break on the way back in. either way, use anti-seize on the threads. beware the "hole of doom" - stuff rags around the timing chain to keep a bolt or tool from dropping down there, otherwise it's a loooong job. when the head comes off, keep track of the locating dowels in the corners - they are pressed in to the head, but may pull out/fall out and you need them - been there. i've got some threads on this, mostly showing the things NOT to do...

It's a nice looking car. I wonder if the vinyl interior and door panels are the originals or replacements. The door panels could be original and just have the wrinkles or not. The vinyl on the shock towers may not have been glued back on properly. As for the price I don't know that the car is worth 65k but I would think a documented low mileage car in very good shape that needs almost nothing would be in the 30's to low 40's. Charles

Just make sure and put the bolts back into the same holes. It's an easy job. Take the four nuts off and remove the fan clutch with the fan still attached.

If you can spin the fan more than one or two rotations by hand it's most likely bad. A new fan clutch won't even turn a complete rotation in my experiences. If it's running on the hot side (verified with thermometer in the radiator) more than 200 degrees you should have it boiled out or replaced. A shroud is tremendous help in my opinion. My temp gauge reads hot but they're known to do that. Take the cap off and stick meat thermometer in and let the thermostat open. Mine shows 175 degrees idling in the garage.

I had my fan clutch seize long ago. Most of them lose resistance though. I drove the car for a few days, in the summer, with no fan at all(yes it is possible)before I replaced the old one with a flex fan & 3" spacer. After getting rid of the steel fan, I noticed an increase in power with my butt dyno. I didn't have any problems with it at all. The only time a fan is even needed is when the car is not moving or moving very slowly. Mark

Go with Siteunseen's advice. As for the Fan Clutch. A bad one will have some of the following characteristics. Total lockup - it should be still not fused.Greasy, oily appearance. This is usually associated with...Too much Axial play - like a whole lot.The fans have always made a lot of racket. You could always install an electric fan too. Finally, since you are replacing the Water Pump, I encourage you to change the Thermostat and check the hoses as well.

Duck tape a potentiometer to a tuning peg. Done. As you can probably imagine, I have gone L.B. on a couple of auto. transmissions long ago & speaking of rants, John Cleese, in Faulty Towers, does the best rant on a stalled car, an Austin I think, that likely has ever been done. Being familiar with harmonicas, perhaps a self tuning option on those too. One would hate to have their Bansee wail out of tune. Mark

Pondering how to make stone softer...

The pulley charge might be big money for an unnecessary detail. Might be worth asking what the change is. You might find a used pulley or be able to make the old one work. On the fan clutch, are you sure the old one is bad? They don't seem to fail much. You might be more bulletproof and cheaper using inexact parts and adding a fan shroud.

If you have extra engine blocks, the block drain plug (under the intake manifold) is the same size as the head elbow. Here's another possibility, depending on why you're blocking it - the vacuum water **** (rooster) blocks water flow. You can leave the head hose connected and disconnect the vacuum supply. That's one, the return line still needs a solution. But you could loop the heater hose return line around under the dash, both sides to the vacuum water **** (rooster), which is closed. Just getting creative, only works if you have the water **** (rooster). Watercokc, watercock, water ****.

I want to hook it up to my shifter and have it change gears when I pluck a string. Just so long as it is in tune with the 10 harmonicas I nailed to my front bumper that wail like banshees when I am on the highway. Willie

The flapper wheel was a good idea and probably was very manageable to handle.The larger diameter of the wheel helps with making sure you don't gouge.

If you want to make your own plate, I made a Windows font with all the relevant letters and numbers. The font will be called 240Z after you installed it (just unzip and double click...) Or use my jpg or dxf 240Z.zip AMPPLATE5b.dxf