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  2. Crack in head that opens due to exhaust heat?
  3. btw what is your VIN? I have a dash and many parts from a Z with Vin ~ 350
  4. Jan 1971 Two sections of the rear harness pass through the floor near the rear right tail light 1. Front pass through contains fuel sender wires (blk & Yel along with fuel pump blk & Grn) 2. Rear pass through contains rear ground wires (two black wires from harness crimped to one connector) Here is the front pass through with fuel sender and optional fuel pump wires. Here is the ground wire connection (2 wires crimped to O ring connector) Here is refreshed ground connector extended from the broken part above. It is connected to frame near fuel tank. Here is sender and fuel pump connectors routing:
  5. I'm with zed head here. The reason of engine failure has been put without evidence directly to 123. (I did read the emails) . they tried to help. Don't trust instructions except special points like the led in the 123 case. When you need them to do the job, then maybe you should ask someone to do it for you.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Early 1970 brochure has 710/OIL Cap: FSM with posible HLS30-00003 seems to have 710/OIL Cap July 1970 First L24 Factory racer had 710/OIL Cap: Q3 1970 BRE racer seems to have Elephant Cap:
  8. The OIL cap, as Jim pointed out, is the correct cap for that valve cover. Both of your's are not correct.
  9. Rechecked, but no wad of wires anywhere below. Actually the only wire that comes below is a green wire for the fuel pump, and below is also a black ground wire that is connected to fuel pump. No other wires are present. I also rechecked the top and all the wires are loose not in a loom so I can see that there is no yellow wire and that all of them go to the lights except the ones for the dome light. Does anyone else here have a 240z built in 10 or 11/69? I need to have someone with one of the 69 built z check what their wire for the sender looks like and where does it come out of the frame with pictures if possible OR someone who is very knowledgeable with the 69 series I 240z.....
  10. got the replacement head super cleaned up, checked for warps again. One other thought, when I get ready to pull the old head off, I am going to rotate the crank 180 degrees off TDC. Then install the jam tool. I figure this will let me inspect the cylinder bore for possible cracks since that has not yet been ruled out (#6 piston will be at the bottom). I am 99% sure its #6 (either the head or the block) based on the test above so I can concentrate on inspection there. I was even thinking of some UV dye in the water and running it one more time, that way I can use the dye to help look for defects. Will run with the cap on so some pressure is built up after shut down. Granted the pressure will not be the same and in the reverse direction, but I figure it cant hurt. Clearly I will have to remember to set the cam gear off 45 degrees as well, will use a grease pencil to mark the chain and gear.
  11. ok thanks for the info didn't know if I had to have a rubber to rubber seal. the 5 pointed can does have a rubber seal on it.
  12. Note that your valve cover has a O-ring seated in it so you will want to use a cap that snugs up to that ring for a good seal (no seal on the cap). Later model valve covers did away with the O-ring in favor of a seal on the cap. My OE cap has the same shape (6 protrusions) as your second pic but no elephant, only the word OIL, my valve cover also has the O-ring seal.
  13. Sorry to bring up a dead thread but felt what was close to the discussed topic. When i got my series 1 a number of years ago It came with one of the early valve covers. With it also the 5 pointed cap show in an earlier post (also picture attached). A friend recently gave me an elephant cap but it doesn’t have a seal with it and sits kinda high. Which cap would be better in terms of originality?
  14. I bought aftermarket and they lasted about a year, bought Nissan 3 years ago and they're still good
  15. Test one left spark plug in, just pulled FI plug #6 started (miss obviously) let it warm up, NO GUSHER, water temp when T stat opened about 165ish per meat thermos on rad neck. after letting run for a while like this I do the blue chem leak test (pull air from rad thru sieve into blue chemical look for change in color. NO change stayed deep blue. finally hooked #6 FI plug back on while running engine speed picks up adj idle back down, NO GUSHER but then that was expected since the water was moving freely, but it did FAIL the chem test (could see it change from blue to green, would have been yellow eventually. So sure looks like I have an issue with #6. Since the ONLY change from gusher to NO gusher was pulling #6 FI plug I will test results one more time, only change will be putting #6 FI plug back on and restart cold engine, if GUSHER then I would say that proves it beyond a doubt. after that I will pull the head and look under a magnifying glass to see if I can locate any cracks. IF not I guess it could be a block issue, which would be bad since I have the spare head but not a spare block. I will reinstall the new head anyway since I don't know how to test the block. If new head has issues and #6 is the fault, then that would tend to make me think its a block issue since it would seem unlikely that both heads would have the same issue in the same cylinder.
  16. after some more reading it seems this is a popular combo (N42 block/MN47 head), as my spare engine has dished pistons, perhaps the CR will not be as big an issue as I thought.
  17. Here is the car which I am talking about . Kats
  18. I will make a replica of this label , this can be seen in the test car of US and Canada in late 1969 . Kats
  19. Hi , I will replace a rear deck glass of my Z432 with a NOS one soon , I have got this when I flew the place and brought it back home with my plane. I am so glad that the defroster works perfect, the glass passed the operation test . It is my style , boiled water under the glass . Kats
  20. How much would bring a real NIKKI pump? i've got one.. Also a new nissan replacement pump, with that one could restore the nikki to perfect Original new condition… (i've got also the 2 (?) other brands of pump.. ánd 2 extra new pump with them… (Is this a sale hahaha…?) (I'm restoring a Datsun so funds needed haha)
  21. I have a drippy Camry you'll notice if I park on top of your bed..
  22. You will find it here on this forum. Look up at the Header with Classic Z Car Club on it and there will be a tab called resources. click it and look for the 77' color wiring diagram. I know you have a 78' and the coil and voltage reg will be different but a lot of it still pertains. Lots of other good stuff there also.
  23. Just take al9ng your smart phone. Tune it to “Waze.com”. It will give you your GPS speed.
  24. Gwri8 where can I find the colored wiring diagram? I have the fsm in hard and electric copies. Still trying to find the relevant info in it
  25. I checked the voltage on all of the fusible links today, all have 12v going out.
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