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This car is a lot better than I initially imagined. Very encouraging!

The dots around ASAHI give you the YEAR of manufacture, and the dots around TEMPERLITE and LAMISAFE give the month.

Next time, if you run out of "$$ welding rods", use wire coat hangers. They work well and you probably have a few in your closet.

Finally found a donor. Here is some progress. Not an excellent fix but coming along. I was able to put a JB weld on the outside while keeping it taped on the inside so that it does not spill inside. Seems like it worked well. Now planning to use a heat gun to melt some plastic and even out the surface in the inside and probably some light black spray coat. I am also planning to put some fiber glass strips on the outside underneath where it starts to crack mostly to avoid future damage. Will keep posted.

When I got mine, it was frozen as well. Let it sit in a bucket of wd-40 for a few days, then put it in a vice and used an air compressor to blow everything out. It cleaned up nicely, with no issues.

Did the upholstery today - I was off work, and just as well because it ended up taking most of the day to do it. One of the zippers was broken. I tried first to fix what was there, along with resewing the seam, that didn't work. So I had to take the seam part again, and replace the damaged pull/zipper with a better quality one. That ended up taking a couple hours. No word back from Ridies.com on the missing hardware or the broken zipper. Covers also didn't come with the required wire rods for attachment, so I made them using $$ welding rod Added aftermarket seat heaters that match the wiring I've already installed. The factory 350Z seat heaters are sewn to the upholstery. No practical way to transfer that, and it would have had to rewire the car to make it work anyway. Damaged zipper After first repair, pull tab also snapped off All zipped up Sewed over the zipper end so it can't open up on the backside of the pull Stronger pull Drivers seat cushion One self inflicted wound - I miscut the opening for the back release 🥺 Back in car. Plugged the seat heaters, but forgot to test them

they do make electrical parts cleaner that should be safe for such, CRC QD electronic cleaner being one option https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/crc-qd-electronic-cleaner-11-wt.-oz.-05103/7070074-p?product_channel=local&store=6231&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=6231&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYOxBhC5ARIsAIvdH51nrWg10-50j4owm9fjsH4M0HUrQDGzF_mpjnbAWbhSLmBdHCWO_G0aAs_BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The two hole pump is for L16/18/20. Four banger. Great donor for internal parts. I once bought a Toyota fuel pump that was also an organ donor. I suspect that design was used on many Japanese cars in the day

Many thanks to KATS for sharing years ago….

There is a proper name for the decipher……looking at the “white dot”, over or under letters of appropriate name…

So pardon my ignorance on the early cars, but how do you read / interpret the date codes on the glass? I'm assuming it's the "M-214"?

I saw him with his band. Maybe ten years ago? RIP.

Thanks !

Bought it off eBay, listing was for “BRAND NEW NIKKI FUEL PUMP 271070” for $100. Not sure what it was originally for. Pump only had 2 mounting holes. I just used the guts to retain my original pump. All pieces matched fine. Looks like jdm-car-parts sells an actual rebuild kit, for an eye watering $125.

Roof/door frame of body at top of quarter window showing some decay on drivers side, will need some repair.

Removing glass today documenting quarter windows … both dated 9/69 rear hatch…..dated 9/69 passenger window…dated 9/69 front window was aftermarket that literally crumbled in my hands while removing Drivers door window 9/70….”door and glass appear to have been replaced to that approx year.

What exactly was the "donor" pump for? Carl

The Look on their faces is priceless! I'm going to forward this to Bob..

Got it. Well, that may be how your life goes, but that's not how stuff works for me. Hahahaha!! I'm gonna toss the master in the ultrasonic cleaner and see what happens after that. If I can't get those valve seats out, I'll just leave them alone. As long as they are clean, they don't seem to be causing any trouble.

Im not sure I would use chemicals on the armature. I would probably just blow it out and wipe the brushes off. Might Scotch Brite the brushes. I would think degreaser would be fine in the motor case

Man I love Caddy's ! a 70 coupe de ville is still on my bucket list for a sunday cruiser

not bad ! he really did put in effort. Is this allowed by Ferrari ? Cause usually when you make replica's you have lawyers all over you 😂 It's cool but I wouldn't drive around in a replica lol

Great info, thx. Also of note, the original examples shown have a trunkbed plate with welded nuts in place of the provided plate, with welded studs- likely also for ease of installation. The original nut-plate solution is also how the roll bar was installed on my Works car. i can certainly understand why Mizukami went with the latter stud system, as the original welded-nut-plate solution requires 4 large holes to be drilled into the floorboard. A very subtle difference that 99.5% of enthusiasts would probably not recognize. (thatsa lotta nuts & studs talk)