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  • Author

Thats a very good bit to know and it totally makes sense. I'll have to keep that in mind when I finalize the fuel system. Since my fuel tank and mount is currently toast, I'm going to sub in a 3g fuel can for now.

I've got the pump installed for now, im not happy with how it mounts so ill have to figure something out. I havent had a chance to look for a right angle nipple that might be able to save me some space. The rusty tire tub came in useful as I was able to run the fuel lines through it. Its just temporary to see if I can get the car running.

20251129_220252990_iOS.jpg

Since I got the pump wired up I decided to see if pump would run and I got nothing. I dont think it has power. I didnt spend any time diagnosing it, I was happy to accomplish the little bit I did. I'm going to flip through the FSM and see what testing procedures they have. Obviously the fuse and maybe a fuel pump relay are at the top of my list.

On a side note, I am having a really hard time with my shrink tube terminal connectors and I was wondering if you guys can suggest some better ones. I purchased these amazon terminals and I just cant get them to crimp for a damn. I have 3 different types of crimpers. The old fashion ones and two of the ratcheting kind. I had a couple of the normal terminals and they crimp really nice and tight, but for some reason the shrink tube ones just wont bite. Maybe I just have the wrong jaw.

Can anyone also suggest some decent vacuum line? Im not a fan of the silicon ones and all the line I can find is super thick.

  • Author

Another component bites the dust, opened up my fuel pump relay only to find a similar fate as the ignition module. Weird part is, the relay looked like it might have been taken apart once already, but the guts say otherwise. I wonder if all the relays on the passenger side will be like this also.

20251207_005713447_iOS.jpg

I pulled this link from a post I found here and ordered one.

Screenshot 2025-12-06 202138.png

And I also pulled the color wiring diagram from here and had the local printer blow it up. Now I can actually read it.

20251202_194312237_iOS.jpg

Edited by nowak1981

Not sure that relay has the same function. It might need some wiring changes to get it to work. The correct bosch relay is 0332 514 120.

Bosch have several variants for the VW's

IMG_0761.JPG

IMG_0764.JPG

  • Author

Thats good to know. I went back to Jbugs website and saw that they did have the relay you posted but it was for California Models. I wonder if the same applies to the Z's? The pin layout and number appears to be the same. I'll have to see if I can find the diagrams

Edit

Did a little bit of digging and found this posted in the 914 forums. Seems like it worked for this guy.

image.png

image.png

Screenshot 2025-12-08 234808.png

Last edit,

The more and more I look, it appears that these two relays are in fact the same and correlate with many other bosch relays

image.png

Edited by nowak1981

FYI, I diagnosed a bad EFI relay on a 77 and told the owner to get the relay that @EuroDat said to buy. He got that relay, slapped it in, and the car ran just fine.

On 12/6/2025 at 7:31 PM, nowak1981 said:

Another component bites the dust, opened up my fuel pump relay only to find a similar fate as the ignition module. Weird part is, the relay looked like it might have been taken apart once already, but the guts say otherwise. I wonder if all the relays on the passenger side will be like this also.

20251207_005713447_iOS.jpg

I pulled this link from a post I found here and ordered one.

Screenshot 2025-12-06 202138.png

And I also pulled the color wiring diagram from here and had the local printer blow it up. Now I can actually read it.

20251202_194312237_iOS.jpg

11 hours ago, nowak1981 said:

Did a little bit of digging and found this posted in the 914 forums.

Everything you need is here on CZCC.com The relay you show is not just the fuel pump relay it's a combined fuel pump and EFI relay. The relay that EuroDat showed is the proper replacement. It was used from 1975 through 1977. In 1978 Nissan separated the two relays.

Nissan calls the EFI relay the main relay. They don't usually rust like yours because of their location. I'm still impressed by the challenge that you're taking on. Remember to check for shorts to ground before connecting the battery after you fix things. Those original pictures look like a wire fire waiting to happen.

image.png

image.png

Edited by Zed Head
+ a

I have been using that bosch relay in the photo since 2012 and no issues. Plugged in a go.

The bosch relay was used in the first 280Z in 1974. Datsun used a Bosch L-Jetronic system for the first 6 months of the 280Z production And Hitachi copied it. That is why a lot of Bosch parts will work on these efi systems. I think @Mike had a bosch system in his attic once.

I posted an ebay link back in 2018 and it still works😄

Screenshot_20251209_191915_Chrome.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/p/77006951

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