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Headlight switch problem- 1978 280z


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15 hours ago, SteveJ said:

No, but then again, I didn't come across as an obtuse fool,

Indeed; well at least you're proving that it's never too late.

 

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Mr.J:

I've told myself that your brand of Trolling is sometimes the price of online discourse, but I cannot help wondering...

What is your problem? Did I call your dog some dirty name?

Why the naked hostility that turns what has been intended as a simple discussion about an arcane and impersonal issue of technical interest, into some battle of wills? Is this really the proper place to work out your anger issues?

Mr.Head:

What have you got against attempting original thought? There are many ways to skin a cat, no? What is wrong about finding one more?

Peace on you both.

 

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On my 240z I went with this wiring diagram to take the load off the wiring harness, steering column stock/blinker switch and also change ground/power configuration for the headlamp connector itself so that I could convert my headlights to LED further reducing load on the car wiring. Here's the diagram;

Headlight Wire conversion.jpg

Once done it changed the headlamp bulb connection to this configuration allowing for the LED headlamps because the Diodes only allow power to flow one direction;

Headlight Connector.jpg

The way Datsun configured the wiring connector point 3 above was power with points 1 and 2 being ground back at the steering column. I've actually converted all bulbs except for the dashboard to LED further reducing load on the wiring. If you go LED for the blinkers be sure to replace the emergency and blinker flashers with LED compatible flashers.

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1 hour ago, w3wilkes said:

On my 240z I went with this wiring diagram to take the load off the wiring harness, steering column stock/blinker switch and also change ground/power configuration for the headlamp connector itself so that I could convert my headlights to LED further reducing load on the car wiring. Here's the diagram;

Headlight Wire conversion.jpg

Once done it changed the headlamp bulb connection to this configuration allowing for the LED headlamps because the Diodes only allow power to flow one direction;

Headlight Connector.jpg

The way Datsun configured the wiring connector point 3 above was power with points 1 and 2 being ground back at the steering column. I've actually converted all bulbs except for the dashboard to LED further reducing load on the wiring. If you go LED for the blinkers be sure to replace the emergency and blinker flashers with LED compatible flashers.

I hope you used fuses smaller than 30 A. That high of a rating won't protect the wiring adequately in the event of a short circuit.

Just to be specific, this diagram only works for the early 240Zs where the headlight switch completed the path to ground. The later cars would have to be wired differently than this.

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4 hours ago, SteveJ said:

I hope you used fuses smaller than 30 A. That high of a rating won't protect the wiring adequately in the event of a short circuit.

Just to be specific, this diagram only works for the early 240Zs where the headlight switch completed the path to ground. The later cars would have to be wired differently than this.

I actually used Dave's harness on my 240z which came with a single 30amp fuse before the relays where the 80amp fusible link is shown. The harness came with a 30amp, but where I've gone LED I could probably even reduce that.

Just curious what the change would be for the 260z/280z besides the pigtail connectors? Doesn't factory wiring for 260z/280z still have a single power to pin 3 in the headlamp connector and switching ground on pins 1 and 2 for Hi/Low beam switch?

Edited by w3wilkes
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1 minute ago, w3wilkes said:

I actually used Dave's harness on my 240z which came with a single 30amp fuse before the relays where the 80amp fusible link is shown. The harness came with a 30amp, but where I've gone LED I could probably even reduce that.

Just curious what the change would be for the 260z/280z? Doesn't it still have a single power to pin 3 in the headlight connector and switching ground for Hi/Low beam switch?

The headlight circuit wiring changed some time during 71 or between 71 and 72, I believe.

The original circuit had the headlight switch completing the path to ground from the high/low beam switch as shown in the 70 and 71 FSM.

image.png

In 72, the headlight switch controlled the wire going to the fuse box. (white/red to red wires) The high/low beam switch connected to the ground wire instead of going through the headlight switch.

image.png

This later design was used for the rest of the S30 run. The change in the 260Z on is the type connector used at the headlights. I periodically search to see if anybody has found a source, but I haven't had any luck so far.

Dave mentioned the wiring change in the headlight circuit to me many years ago, and I dug through the wiring diagrams to understand what he was saying.

 

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3 hours ago, SteveJ said:

Dave mentioned the wiring change in the headlight circuit to me many years ago, and I dug through the wiring diagrams to understand what he was saying.

Since Dave's harness is good on all 240z's including 72 and 73 I would think that other than the connectors at the headlight pigtails the harness will work on 260z and 280z's if you change the connector on the pigtail to the 240z style connector (from a little google work it seems the round connectors in the 260/280 cars are unobtanium). If you don't want to cut off the round connector you could build a new pigtail to go to the headlamp.

Edited by w3wilkes
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Got my nubbins!!  They look good.  Have a major issue though.   My wife threw away my springs.  WTF!!!!!????? I have no words.

Anyone know where I can get these or do I need to find someone to manufacture springs.  I found this company - https://www.jamesspring.com/our-capabilities/compression-springs/

2022-09-02 10_26_07-iCloud Photos.png

Edited by gotham22
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  • 2 weeks later...

Late to the party here, but one of my buddies was into 3D printing for awhile. Don't ask me for details because I dunno them, but apparently there's some kind of plastic/polymer/whatever you can use to 3D print gun components. I'd imagine this material could withstand the heat and general wear and tear of friction fairly well. Just 2 cents, I'm no expert.

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