Jump to content

IGNORED

Pulling My Engine, Need Second Opinion


Muzez

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys! Need a second opinion. Pulling my engine for the first time (77 280z). Front chain is mounted to the sligner, but the 6th exhaust cylinder bolt is sheared off so I can't use the back one. 

I saw that a few members have used ratchet straps so I got the 1000lb working rating strap and wrapped it around the bellhousing. 

Could you guys give this a second look before I pull the engine tomorrow?

Where should the strap be connected to the leveler? Right now I have it through the rear next to the leveling drive but not sure if that is right. 

Should I wrap the strap around the bellhousing a few times? And is there anything else I should connect it to? 

Any advice is helpful! Thanks guys

@Jeff G 78

20211218_171614.jpg

20211218_171606.jpg20211218_165708.jpg

20211218_171257.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I'm guessing the engine will roll a bit to the left when you start to lift.  The front strap is on the right and the left strap that should be on the left is now centered, so the forces will be off center.  I've lifted many with broken rear studs and I believe I wrapped the strap around the rear runner of the exhaust manifold.  It should still work the way you have it, but just be prepared for the engine to roll a bit.  Also, be very careful about the straps pulling on anything that could chaffe or cut them.  The last thing you want is a 600 lb engine freefalling!  That would be a very bad day.  I usually use two sets of straps just to be safe.

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Jeff G 78, @Reptoid Overlords, @Patconthanks for the replies guys and apologies for the post duplication. Got a 500 server error that the post didn't go through so I reposted, should have double checked. 

I will see if I have a chain long enough to go around the exhaust manifold runner. If not, will set two straps on the exhaust manifold side. 

Will post back in an hour with pictures when I get it moved. 

 

Patcon's reply from old post: 

I dont really like that set up.

Thread a section of chain through the exhaust manifold. Use bolts to close the loop on the manifold end.  Take the other end to the leveler. I wouldn't want a large loop like you have now. Too easy for the load to shift.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll get it, and it sure is nice to be able to clean up the engine bay.  On a side note, I used to live in the Ravenswood neighborhood near Irving Park and lawrence in the mid to late '90's.  I worked at that Sears on the 1900 block of Lawrence delivering TV's and such.  Sometimes i miss the place.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

You'll get it, and it sure is nice to be able to clean up the engine bay.  On a side note, I used to live in the Ravenswood neighborhood near Irving Park and lawrence in the mid to late '90's.  I worked at that Sears on the 1900 block of Lawrence delivering TV's and such.  Sometimes i miss the place.

That is not far from where I am at! Got really excited that you might be local until I checked your profile. If you are ever in the neighborhood, give me a holler. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Also the transmission will drain out the rear when the engine is highly tilted if you don't drain it first or use a rubber cap on it

I have the rubber cap! I listened! 🙂 I think I have seen you mention it on 3-4 other posts. 

6 minutes ago, dar5052 said:

Your current setup is the same way I removed mine but I think I used a short chain instead of a strap. It worked well. I had to get the motor up pretty high to clear the oilpan over the radiator support

Sounds good, will shorten the chain in the front. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had take my front tires off because of the height needed to get the combo out. I guess garage ceilings are 8ft. But I can't remember what I used? 99% sure, jack stands as low as possible. The legs on the lift I had were too wide to go in between the front whatever but it went to the sides close enough that there wasn't any problems. I put the rear tires on ramps too. That helped. High in the rear and low for the front.

The first time I did mine by myself I was super nervous but it's real easy. Don't forget the speedo cable, be careful with the hood rod holder. Most everyone tapes a WD-40 cap over them. I have a motorcycle jack that's pretty much a transmission jack. I put it under the transmission so it rolled foward as I lifted the motor. Made it a little easier.

Good luck.

Edited by siteunseen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I had take my fronts tires off because of the height needed to get the combo out. I guess garage ceilings are 8ft. But I can't remember what I used? 99% sure, jack stands as low as possible. The legs on the lift I had were too wide to go in between the front whatever but it went to the sides close enough that there wasn't any problems.

The first time I did mine by myself I was super nervous but it's real easy. Don't forget the speedo cable, be careful with the hood rod holder. Most everyone tapes a WD-40 cap over them. I have a motorcycle jack that's pretty much a transmission jack. I put it under the transmission so it rolled foward as I lifted the motor. Made it a little easier.

Good luck.

Now that you mention it, I do remember taking the front wheels off and lowering the car to get more clearance.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had the thought that tying the springs down with spring compressors before lifting would stop the front end from rising, to give space.  I didn't need it though, I was lifting from the rafters using a chain hoist.  But it might be worth a shot if you know space will be tight.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Safely removed! Just need to get some longer bolts to get it on the engine stand since the stock ones look like they are too small. 

20211219_142459.jpg20211219_142455.jpg

Only one hiccups, forgot to remove the shift knob so I tore the rubber gasket which pissed me off becuase I just replaced it. Anyone have a photo of their shift lever? Trying to make sure I didn't bend it, but this thing has more curves then some women I have dated so it'd hard to tell :p

 

20211219_142440.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I had take my front tires off because of the height needed to get the combo out. I guess garage ceilings are 8ft. But I can't remember what I used? 99% sure, jack stands as low as possible. The legs on the lift I had were too wide to go in between the front whatever but it went to the sides close enough that there wasn't any problems. I put the rear tires on ramps too. That helped. High in the rear and low for the front.

The first time I did mine by myself I was super nervous but it's real easy. Don't forget the speedo cable, be careful with the hood rod holder. Most everyone tapes a WD-40 cap over them. I have a motorcycle jack that's pretty much a transmission jack. I put it under the transmission so it rolled foward as I lifted the motor. Made it a little easier.

Good luck.

Thanks @siteunseen. Was definitely nervous. I didn't put it on chassis stands. Instead I raised it up with some wheel stands just enough to get the legs of the lift under. Can send a picture in a bit but it worked well. 

@Patcon I wish I had capped the coolant in the back of the engine. Put an old crappy carpet under the engine to catch the fluids as it got lifted, but it drained down the transmission just past the edge of the damn carpet lol. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/19/2021 at 8:45 PM, Jeff G 78 said:

Not quite yet. The Badge isn't awarded until spindle pins are pulled. LOL

I already removed 1 of 2. What a harrowing adventure. I will buy the spindle pin tool next time since my "walk the pin out using 1234353245234645324 stacked washers" technique ended in tears. Ends up that tightening and loosening hardware a few hundred times under load is not good for the threads, who knew. 😛 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Muzez said:

I already removed 1 of 2. What a harrowing adventure. I will buy the spindle pin tool next time since my "walk the pin out using 1234353245234645324 stacked washers" technique ended in tears. Ends up that tightening and loosening hardware a few hundred times under load is not good for the threads, who knew. 😛 

Yeah, the washers put all the stress on the threads.  The pullers lock the pin to the puller and the puller takes all the abuse.  I made my own using acme threads and a S30 front strut top bearing and it works great.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Yeah, the washers put all the stress on the threads. 

Yeah. It was like the second thing I did on my car with 0 knowledge about car maintenance or restoration. I thought to myself, this thing only has 30k miles, it will be way better than everyone else. Mistake lol. 

8 minutes ago, Jeff G 78 said:

 I made my own using acme threads and a S30 front strut top bearing and it works great.  

If have a moment sometime over the holiday break to PM me a picture, would love to see it. I need to do the other spindle pin at some point but the immense feeling of dread keeps that at the end of my to-do list. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Muzez said:

If have a moment sometime over the holiday break to PM me a picture, would love to see it. I need to do the other spindle pin at some point but the immense feeling of dread keeps that at the end of my to-do list. 

I posted a thread on here somewhere.  Search my name and spindle pin puller and you should find it.  If not, I'm happy to send pics.  I had access to a lathe which made it easier for sure.  I bought a 3 foot length of 1" acme threaded rod, three mating nuts and three washers.  I then bought a length of 1" black steel pipe.  I cut the rod and drilled and tapped a M12x1.25 hole in each end.  I then cut the pipe and welded the washer to one end to support the thrust bearing.  One thing I didn't do that needs to be added is to either machine two flats on one end of the rod or drill a hole through the rod.  As it is, it works great, but once pulled, the spindle pin and rod are locked together.  The pin wedged in the rod as it's pulled.  The flats or hole in the rod would allow the rod to be held from rotating.  I double nut the free end of the spindle pin to back it off the rod.  Without the flats or hole, I have to put the rod between blocks of wood in a vice and even then, it can be hard to hold.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.