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74 260z distributor on wrong ??


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That is actually good then.  All 5 spots should show the same voltage and it should be battery voltage.  Your wiring looks correct at the ballast and coil, as far as power supply.  Get the distributor back in and wired right and you might get some spark.

In your recent post you said that you didn't get spark but you didn't say how you tested it.  Spark only happens when the current flow through the coil is interrupted.

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It might be.  But from where you're at now it will be easy to find out.  You have your wiring to the coil correct.  Get that distributor back in and the spark plug wires right.  No need to jump the gun. 

Charge the battery.

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zed  - i did that. i once again had the dizzy out.. made sure the car was at tdc - compression stroke.. had the plug wires all new and in correct..  and no spark.....  F@@@ - this is insane..   battery was working when i started this now its like dead.. wont even turn over....  need to charge battery -  and just put in the 280zx matchbox dizzy and get rid rid of all that junk.. no more headaches.....

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1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

In your recent post you said that you didn't get spark but you didn't say how you tested it

 

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Hi zed. I tested it by trying to start the car. I also put my screwdriver with bulb in end of coil to see if it would light up.  Nothing. Should there be power coming out end of coil or only when try to start car?  I was going to hold end of coil wire to ground on car to look for spark but I tried that on another car a while ago and got one hell of a zap. So I didn’t wanna do that.  I’m sure if a plug got spark I would hear the car start. Put gas in plug hole. Etc.  No luck.  Whatever triggers the coil is no triggering it to send a spark out.  Either electronic unit or maybe dizzy pickup??? But power to coil. And no spark.  

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Posted (edited)

ok - i am just going to hook up the 280zx dizzy..  is it that easy - 2 wires ? 2 from coil to new dizzy? which wire is tach and where does it go? is that light blue on my coil - the tach?

thanks

dizzy.jpeg

cailfin.jpg

coil3.jpg

Edited by Shawninvancouver
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When checking for spark at the coil, this is what I did.

 

And that was from a 280ZX distributor that had wobble in the shaft, so it didn't have the proper gap at the reluctor.

Edited by SteveJ
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1 hour ago, Shawninvancouver said:

Ok just need to know what’s gauge wire to use for wires from coil to new dizzy.  and will this coil be ok.. Thanks. 

coilspec.jpg

Use the wiring  that is already on the car.

And yes, that coil should be fine.

 

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CASE CLOSED - car RUNS!!!!  new   280zx dizzy fixes the problem... took out electronic ignition unit and ballast... thanks for the help..

can i now start a new thread on how to tune it up and get it to run normal???

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4 hours ago, Shawninvancouver said:

CASE CLOSED - car RUNS!!!!  new  280zx dizzy fixes the problem... took out electronic ignition unit and ballast... thanks for the help..

Congratulations.

 

4 hours ago, Shawninvancouver said:

can i now start a new thread on how to tune it up and get it to run normal???

I dunno, can you?

Edited by Racer X
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1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

I have one of those, never used it. There isn’t enough room between the carbs and strut tower.

Someone gave me one of these:

image.jpeg

 

It is easy to use and allows enough room to be quick and accurate.

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Never an issue on my '72 with 2 SUs. I remove the air box completely. Took me a minute to figure out the hole on the side that allows air in. Mine was pegging out at first then I rotated it around to open up that hole and pull some outside air in. Then it was a lot easier to use.

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3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Never an issue on my '72 with 2 SUs. I remove the air box completely. Took me a minute to figure out the hole on the side that allows air in. Mine was pegging out at first then I rotated it around to open up that hole and pull some outside air in. Then it was a lot easier to use.

Might be because I have two insulators between the carbs and manifold.

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11 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Never an issue on my '72 with 2 SUs. I remove the air box completely. Took me a minute to figure out the hole on the side that allows air in. Mine was pegging out at first then I rotated it around to open up that hole and pull some outside air in. Then it was a lot easier to use.

 

7 hours ago, Racer X said:

Might be because I have two insulators between the carbs and manifold.

I just had a look at my process and even without the extra spacers the space is tight. I leave the airbox base mounted, and tune for the extra length of the air horns. It gets tight by the strut tower and brake cylinder.

The Uni Syn is only about an inch thick so it is easily and quickly moved back and forth. And it is made of metal.

Oh yeah.

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