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Another Suspension Rebuild


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After adjusting the toe-in, it actual tracks pretty good.  I'll be curious to see how close I got it when I take it to be aligned.  I forgot to tighten the rear strut top nuts, which made quite a racket during its first ride.  And the engine developed a miss while sitting for 3 months, probably pull the plugs tomorrow and take a look.  Or it could be the crappy California gas.

IMG_6883.JPG

Did I mention I picked up some new wheels from Z Car Garage?  😉

IMG_6888.JPG

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Next dumb 2 questions... 1- Did you use a 6 + 3mm rubber washers because there wasn't a 9mm rubber washer? 2- I presume the metal washer is oriented away from the mustache bar?


No such thing as a dumb question (except the one not googled) :p

Yes exactly why I used 6+3.

The metal washer has very small dip in it making it slightly concave, so the sticky outy bit points away from the bar.

Ps.
Loving the alignment toolage!!! I used news papers under the wheels to help them slide about an did mine by eye. At the shop they found it had 5.4 and 5.2mm toe in. Too much toe but amazing how close you can get by eye or indeed what the eyes can see! Oh and I paid £120 ($167USD) at my local Nissan motorsport specialist, but they really know their stuff. So I feel your pain on the price of doing something so simple. It doesn’t take many alignments at that price to justify buying a half decent alignment tool.
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3 hours ago, AK260 said:

It doesn’t take many alignments at that price to justify buying a half decent alignment tool

This is the diy alignment tool I bought after years of toe adjustments with the string method, https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/3300-1.jpg3300-1.jpg3300-1.jpg

The tool allows you to measure and adjust toe, caster and camber, pretty happy with it.

 

3300-1.jpg

Edited by grannyknot
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This is the diy alignment tool I bought after years of toe adjustments with the string method, https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/3300-1.jpg3300-1.jpg3300-1.jpg
The tool allows you to measure and adjust toe, caster and camber, pretty happy with it.
 
3300-1.thumb.jpg.5a6acc1c1beca98a9015d62a075f2735.jpg


Oh wow! Thank you for sharing!! There are many out there but it’s great to see one with a personal recommendation from someone who knows their onions!
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7 hours ago, grannyknot said:

This is the diy alignment tool I bought after years of toe adjustments with the string method, https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/3300-1.jpg

The tool allows you to measure and adjust toe, caster and camber, pretty happy with it.

Ordered!  I'd rather put $ toward this than give $ to someone for an easy no-brainer job!  Thanks!  

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm liking that TenHulzen alignment tool!  Measured toe-in I had set with a couple straight edges clamped to the wheels.  Came out at 64 5/8" in the rear, 64 9/16" in the front, net of 1/16" in.  Going to leave it there.  Steering wheel is a spline or two off center, think I'll remove wheel and recenter instead of adjusting tie rods.

IMG_6913.JPG

So, here's the before picture from May, stock springs (I think), worn struts, etc:

IMG_6662.JPG

Here's the after picture, Eibach progressive springs, Koni Yellows, new bushings, mostly rubber.  After about 80 miles of driving.  Not much of a drop as I was expecting, looks the same to me. 😕

IMG_6914.JPG

I measured from the ground to the top of the outside wheel well lip before and after, tires are 195/70R14's:

   Before:                   After:                          Camber:

RF:  26"                      26"                             -.40

RR: 24 7/8"                24 5/8"                      -2.05

LF: 26 1/4"                 25 7/8"                      -.50

LR: 25 1/4"                 25 1/8"                      -2.15

BUT, I've gotta say the Eibachs and the Koni Yellows are a great pairing together.  It's like driving another car.  I'm running them about 1/4 turn from the softest setting for now.

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Looks like you have the Eibach rear end squat too, it seems to happen a lot with the Eibachs but not with everyone. I inserted a 1/2" urethane spacer between the the top of the spring and the spring perch on the car, that evened the car out so it was level.

 

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I think I’d rather lower the front an inch or so.
I’m not a fan of ignorantly cutting coil springs, but has anyone done that? I was wondering how much a half coil would lower the front. And increased camber wouldn’t hurt either. Don’t want to do the coil over route.

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1 hour ago, sfm6s524 said:

I think I’d rather lower the front an inch or so.
I’m not a fan of ignorantly cutting coil springs, but has anyone done that? I was wondering how much a half coil would lower the front. And increased camber wouldn’t hurt either. Don’t want to do the coil over route.

I don't have a huge problem with cutting coils, but you must do the math and understand what you are doing.  Cutting coils increases the effective spring rate and in your case, cutting the fronts to level the car will increase the front spring rate while the rears stay the same.  This will change the ride frequency and could cause the car to be pitchy.  Raising the front spring rate will also change the front to rear handling balance. 

I cut the coils on my 260Z race car.  Stock coils on the late 260Z coupe are 100 Lbs/in. front and rear from what I remember (it was 12 years ago).  I cut 2 coils and then added custom length jounce bumpers from a ~2000 model year Sentra with a measured 55 lb/in rate.  I cut the length so they were in contact at curb height so they act as spring aids.  With the coils cut, the car dropped 1" and the new spring rates including the jounce bumpers went up to 200 lbs/in.  I fine tuned the handling by playing with different length jounce bumpers and the result was fantastic handling.  The car is well balanced and easy to drive at the limit.

You are better off shimming the rears via rubber, delrin or aluminum under the spring or on top of the spring.  It's the perfect application for 3D printed TPU (rubber) as you could get just the right shape for the spacers.

Edited by Jeff G 78
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I have 1 round cut out of my fronts with stock struts. The previous owner did it but I like it and the stance is nice. Handles good. Not too rough through the steering or the seat. Cheap way to lower one I've always heard.

Screenshot_20190102-183746_Gallery.jpg

 

 

 

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So do you still have stock springs on the back? If so are you sure someone didn’t cut them already? Seems to be way lower than normal back there. The Eibachs you put on the front helped, looks like it dropped maybe more than an inch. I just bought Eibachs all around and Koni springs too. They haven’t arrived yet but hope it works out.

This is mine now with 100% stock suspension. It’s sitting pretty high.

fd1b08044426266c972fedab0de78f44.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I have 1 round cut out of my fronts with stock struts. The previous owner did it but I like it and the stance is nice. Handles good. Not too rough through the steering or the seat. Cheap way to lower one I've always heard.

Yeah, that's what I'm after.  👍  Not sure about cutting those Eibach springs though.  I've done Mustang springs before, but I've never had progressives.  I assume the top of the spring is the soft side, where the windings are about 1/2" apart.  Could try cutting 1 coil and see where it ends up at.  Geometry-wise, I wonder what a 1/2" shorter spring translates to change in wheel height.  I might be a the guinea pig on this.  Picture of spring loaded:

IMG_6922.JPG

Or, Z Car Depot has this .7" spacers to raise the rear:

https://zcardepot.com/products/upper-strut-mount-spacer-240z-260z-280z?variant=19280977494129

2 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

So do you still have stock springs on the back? If so are you sure someone didn’t cut them already? Seems to be way lower than normal back there. The Eibachs you put on the front helped, looks like it dropped maybe more than an inch. I just bought Eibachs all around and Koni springs too. They haven’t arrived yet but hope it works out.

This is mine now with 100% stock suspension. It’s sitting pretty high.
 

Yeah, not sure if I had the stock springs to begin with, I'll have to do some homework there.

That does sit pretty high, hope the new stuff works too.

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13 hours ago, sfm6s524 said:

I used something like the spacers offered here, https://www.suspension.com/universal-coil-spring-isolators.asp#poly

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Got the new wheels and tires mounted today.  😊  Yeah, went with 15 x 7's, 0 offset.  I just like the old school look, old like me.  Sure, tire selection sucks, but I drive my cars less aggressive nowadays.  Ended up with Yokahama Avid Accend GT's, 205/60-15, 24.7" diameter.  Here's a pic with 180 lbs on the drivers seat:

IMG_6932.JPG

Here's a pic with the differential jacked up about 3/4".  Doesn't look too bad.  I think I'll get spacers for the rear.  

Well, maybe... I'd sure like to see what it would look like with 1 coil cut from the front springs. 🤔.  Opinions welcome!  

IMG_6931.JPG

 

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I like your wheel/tire choice and I like the stance as is (picture 2). Also the amount of wheel/tire 'fill' within the fender openings. The problem, however, is that your tire to top-of-wheel arch gap appears bigger the front than at the rear.  I think it's a bit too big at the front and a bit too small at the rear.  But maybe the shadows make it difficult to tell.  If I'm right, though, perhaps the best starting strategy would be a half coil off the front and a bit more spacer at the rear.

The visual part is subjective.  Messing around with the suspension too much can have undesired consequences.  

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Nothing wrong with YoKohama Avid, that's a great highway tire.  If you are going to experiment with cutting coils start with soft end where the coils are touching each other, at least that way you're only making the car lower without changing the spring rate much if at all.

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I may have missed this but have you tried adding rear strut spacer?

Also, maybe experiment with cutting your old springs and see what you can do there. You might be happy before cutting your new Eibachs. Just an idea.

Lastly what if you put the old stock non lowered springs back on there rear?

Maybe I missed some things you’ve already tried, sorry if I’m repeating ideas given.

https://zcardepot.com/products/upper-strut-mount-spacer-240z-260z-280z?variant=19280977494129&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-batuuDE8gIVCWyGCh1jfg3dEAQYASABEgJ2__D_BwE


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13 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

I may have missed this but have you tried adding rear strut spacer?

Not yet, I might later.

So, decided to cut the front coils today, 1/2 coil at a time.  Did the right side first until I kinda got it where I wanted it, then the left.  Cutting 1/2 coil off the top (soft end) dropped it 1/16", a full coil 3/16", 1 1/2 coils for 1/4" drop.  Not much impact for amount of material removed.  So then I figured I cut on the bottom firm end, and took 3/8 coil off there, which resulted in a total 7/16" drop.  Decided to leave it there and not get crazy, and repeated for the left side.  Here's what was removed (your results may vary🙂):

IMG_6945.JPG

After a quick spin took this pic:

IMG_6943.JPG

I think I'll leave it as is for awhile, maybe more settling will happen.  Ride smoothness doesn't seem to have changed, and no camber change.  Final measurements from ground to outside top wheel well:  

RF:  25 5/8"

RR:  24 7/8"

LF:  25 9/16"

LR:  25 3/16"

I guess when MSA says these Eibachs "Will lower most Z's approximately 1 - 11/2" from stock ride height, depending on other factors, such as choice of struts & shocks," I guess my Z isn't in the "most" category.  I should probably figure out what springs it had before, maybe they were non OEM.  Oh well, good enough for now, until I get the itch to cut more....

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