240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena

[240ZBUILTBYME]

Luckily my gaskets were only stuck to the insulators and not on the manifold. I imagine you have to be careful with a steel scraper on the aluminum surface and not to damage the flange face. 

[Captain Obvious]

Well I haven't gotten the insulators off the intake manifolds yet, so I don't know which side the gaskets will end up on. I do, however, have the situation with gasket material petrified onto the manifolds where the balance tube goes. I've done some work with the paint scraper razor blade, but got skittish the second time I dug in. The first time you tell yourself "OK, I slipped once... Let's not do that again." And then you do it again.       I believe the aluminum is softer than the gasket material.

So I haven't caused any unmanageable damage yet, but just wondering if there's a silver bullet.  Granny says "no", but I'm hoping he's just not hit on it yet.

Maybe I'll try the shallow pan Mr. X suggested, and maybe put the whole thing in a bag just to see what happens.  Thanks guys!! 

So before I crawl back to my hole... There ARE concoctions sold on the open market that are named "Gasket Removers". Is this just snake oil?

[Racer X]

10 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

 

So before I crawl back to my hole... There ARE concoctions sold on the open market that are named "Gasket Removers". Is this just snake oil?

 

Never tried them myself, but I suspect they work like the Goof Off, softening the adhesive and dried gasket material.

[Racer X]

10 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Will do that! Will be the beeswax will hold up to the heat and fuel? 

On the outside it should hold up OK. The heat there isn't very high, and there shouldn't be any fuel washing across the outer parts.

Beeswax is pretty stiff and durable.

10 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Will do, I’ll have to buy a granite flat stone. 

If you have stone countertops in your kitchen, you could try that. Be sure and clean up so your wife doesn't get upset.

Or, stop by the local tradesmen who do stone countertops, see f they have a scrap piece you can have. I snagged leftover bits when I built my house.

[Mark Maras]

1 hour ago, Racer X said:

1 hour ago, Racer X said:

On the outside it should hold up OK. The heat there isn't very high, and there shouldn't be any fuel washing across the outer parts.

Beeswax is pretty stiff and durable.

If you have stone countertops in your kitchen, you could try that. Be sure and clean up so your wife doesn't get upset.

Or, stop by the local tradesmen who do stone countertops, see f they have a scrap piece you can have. I snagged leftover bits when I built my house.

 I've used my table saw table and emery cloth for truing flat surfaces.

 

[dutchzcarguy]

On 3/22/2021 at 2:36 PM, Captain Obvious said:

All these years of experience and I'm asking how to get old gaskets off.

No no.. always smart to ask then not to ask.. you can always learn something..

For instans that i don't know how to write forinstans? and no i don't know how to get off those gaskets 🤣

[Racer X]

1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

No no.. always smart to ask then not to ask.. you can always learn something..

For instans that i don't know how to write forinstans? and no i don't know how to get off those gaskets 🤣

For instance . . . . . 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

finally finished building the chassis jig after much toil. It was a journey in learning the basics of metal fabrication and has laid the ground works and basic skills I will need for my rust repairs. Pretty happy with the results considering I hadn’t touched a welder previously. Still much to learn though...

As I will outline in the video I wanted to replace the backbone of the car, floors, chassis and frame rails prior to mounting on rotisserie for blasting. As you will see this will be impossible without extensive repairs to the rockers/doglegs and rears arches. So I have decided to get the whole thing blasted prior to starting any rust repairs. I will be bracing the shell extensively before mounting to the rotisserie. 

please excuse the cheesy thumbnail photo...

Ryan

[dutchzcarguy]

Hey Ryan,  Nice to see you do things in mm it's more accurate (Only my opinion!! Haha before i get half of the people here all over me! ;-))    But....

Take a look at vid on 7:54 min.  you made yourself a lot of work.. Take out just the small part that is bad.. you also cut into the corners to far and also in the plate that is behind the piece you tried to take out.. You should also stay away from the door opening, if not very necessary! (Later on it will get you into trouble with the heat of welding.. all unnecessery!)

Also if you take out a rotten piece, make the corners round you'll see that it's much easyer to weld a round corner than a 90 degree corner!  (Use a big drill in corners)

I did not see the whole video as i can't concentrate for a long time..

 

First blast the car to  work on clean steal, then weld all corners and edges and stuff and then you can repair the bigger flat (read floor) pieces..    Maybe read a book on how to restore a car..  And the last thing i wanted to say.. you have to work much more precisely, again that part you took out of the dogleg, it's a biggy..  As the standing steel plate inside is completely rusted away you might think about it to take it completely out.. the dogleg..   But get it blasted clean first...   i see a lot..lot...lot of work here..  (Ive done that myself once.. my car you can lift it on the doglegs (as it supposed to)  it's strong inthere..)

[240ZBUILTBYME]

10 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Hey Ryan,  Nice to see you do things in mm it's more accurate (Only my opinion!! Haha before i get half of the people here all over me! ;-))    But....

Take a look at vid on 7:54 min.  you made yourself a lot of work.. Take out just the small part that is bad.. you also cut into the corners to far and also in the plate that is behind the piece you tried to take out.. You should also stay away from the door opening, if not very necessary! (Later on it will get you into trouble with the heat of welding.. all unnecessery!)

Also if you take out a rotten piece, make the corners round you'll see that it's much easyer to weld a round corner than a 90 degree corner!  (Use a big drill in corners)

I did not see the whole video as i can't concentrate for a long time..

 

First blast the car to  work on clean steal, then weld all corners and edges and stuff and then you can repair the bigger flat (read floor) pieces..    Maybe read a book on how to restore a car..  And the last thing i wanted to say.. you have to work much more precisely, again that part you took out of the dogleg, it's a biggy..  As the standing steel plate inside is completely rusted away you might think about it to take it completely out.. the dogleg..   But get it blasted clean first...   i see a lot..lot...lot of work here..  (Ive done that myself once.. my car you can lift it on the doglegs (as it supposed to)  it's strong inthere..)

Hahaha thanks mm is much more accurate and you don’t have to work with fractions! 

I had no intention to patch the piece I cut out, (though I may just to practice!) it was to get a better look at the condition of the underlying skins, so yes I was a little nonchalant in my cut. if you have read my thread, that whole panel is getting replaced, I have the rear quarter tabco panel already and outer wheel arch. I’m not too worried. 

that dogleg panel I cut had been repaired previously so it may look like I cut layers underneath but it was the original skin that had not been cut out. 

Yes all the rust will be removed and patched do not worry. I have a very long road ahead of me and I will be an expert in rust repair by the end...

next up for the car is build a rotisserie and send for blasting.

Do appreciate all your advice!

Ryan

[Racer X]

18 minutes ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Hahaha thanks mm is much more accurate and you don’t have to work with fractions! 

 

You never measured out to 1/4 mm?

[240ZBUILTBYME]

35 minutes ago, Racer X said:

You never measured out to 1/4 mm?

Haha I’m not an engine guy so haven’t had to so far! 

I imagine you would have to move to fractions once working with engine component tolerances!