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240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena


240ZBUILTBYME

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3 hours ago, Patcon said:

Kids are amazing projects but you might find you grow as much as they do...ūüėČ

Very poetic patcon! They are amazing, my two year old is certainly making me grow into a more patient man...ūüėú it‚Äôs funny how you can find them the most annoying thing¬†ever,¬†then a split second later the most adorable.¬†

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so despite my daughter arriving I managed to make it to the car to do a bit of spannering, stripped the drum brakes and gave them a clean out, also got the front suspension assembly broken down and ready to bring all components in need of a press to my mates shop. 

I still haven’t decided if I’m going to rebuild drums or go straight to discs. Any thoughts or opinions? 

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not sure which is an original 240z cylinder, anyone know off hand? 

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After wire brushing the crud off the rear control arm looks like some smart fellow tried to put a jack stand under it. I was thinking I would just finesse the dents straight if I can. 

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Outer tie rods were jammed in tight, haven’t tried heat yet but figure I’ll just press them out along with everything else. So just dismantled steering rack at the knuckle. 

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anybody know if the silver brackets from the steering rack bushes are meant to be there? They looked like diy aluminum shims  made up. 

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I agree, I would try to straighten out the damage on the control arm.

Haven't seen the shims before

Most rear brake upgrades dont increase brake efficiency. Some can throw off the F/R bias and increase stopping distance. All that said I am going with rear disc because they are self adjusting.

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1 minute ago, Captain Obvious said:

Uhhhh... So are the rear drums.   Haha!!    :ph34r:

I know, I know...

But I find they dont always adjust as designed and the pedal stroke gets longer to take up the space. The discs really dont have that issue

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16 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

anybody know if the silver brackets from the steering rack bushes are meant to be there? They looked like diy aluminum shims  made up. 

Those rubber steering rack mounts are the originals and once they get old the rack flops back and forth, a PO has made up those shims to try to get some of the slop out.  The new poly mounts improve the steering feel.

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21 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Those rubber steering rack mounts are the originals and once they get old the rack flops back and forth, a PO has made up those shims to try to get some of the slop out.  The new poly mounts improve the steering feel.

Yeah that’s what I figured! Cheers! 

Yeah poly bushes for sure upon rebuild. 

Ryan 

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8 hours ago, tyroguru said:

Ryan - I'm being uber dense - these look like a rear lower valence (??) but, if so, why do you need two? I haven't worked on this area at all so probably don't understand at all how the sections are made up.

Not dense at all Jon! I only need one, I shared the shipping costs with another guy to get it to Australia from the uk. 140£ (~200USD) to ship it!!!! By the time I finish the restoration I think I will have spent more in shipping than buying the car! 

Ryan 

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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  • 1 month later...

Happy new year everyone! May this year bring you much progress on your projects or many miles in your z. 

weatherstrip kit arrived along with rubber and grommet kit all from z car depot. I am 90% confident that the zcardepot kit is straight up the precision kit. All parts are corresponding to precision’s part numbers, arrived in a precision box, some parts did not come in precision branded packets but upon watching some of the precision installation videos on YouTube some of the packaging looks unbranded. Also came with a precision kit packing list. So unless z car depot goes through the trouble of  restickering all their kit with precision part numbers. I’m pretty sure I have a precision kit. What I don’t get is the 200 USD price difference? Zcardepot 289 USD and from precision 468 USD! 

Rubber bumper and grommet kit was a bit of an impulse buy, but contains a lot of parts I assume I’ll need at some stage. 

My rationale in these purchases is that I will need door seals to start gapping panels and doors when I replace my outer rockers. Zcardepot had black Friday sales which meant the amount I saved covered the shipping I have to pay to get it to Perth. So I pulled the trigger. 

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Had so much time off over the Xmas/new year break but due to Family commitments, new baby and spending two weeks in Western Australia’s beautiful southwest, progress on the car was non existent. 

I managed to strip my rear SU, so plan is now to buy a parts washer and clean everything in prep for replating and vapor blasting. Can’t believe how many individual parts make up a set of SUs! All parts very thoroughly catalogued and organized.

Does anyone know the best place to source oem or equivalent fasteners for SUs? I have some screws with stripped heads etc

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I did receive my blemished zstory jdm muffler. Which is a very nice unit, and for 260$ aud including shipping I couldn’t resist. I don’t know what my plan is to minimize the blemish just yet. slight damage during shipping but nothing unfixable, may just need to have a machine shop shave the tip. 

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im hoping I’m able to make some decent progress this year. Wish me luck 

Ryan 

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14 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

slight damage during shipping but nothing unfixable,

Take a round piece of hard wood (piece of your broomstick) and give the pipe some little hits with it, from the inside of the pipe.. you will get that super smal dent out.. Just carfully with small hits. ūüėȬ† (or scuff it with the wood from inside to outside.. take your time. )

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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18 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Had so much time off over the Xmas/new year break but due to Family commitments, new baby and spending two weeks in Western Australia’s beautiful southwest, progress on the car was non existent. 

I managed to strip my rear SU, so plan is now to buy a parts washer and clean everything in prep for replating and vapor blasting. Can’t believe how many individual parts make up a set of SUs! All parts very thoroughly catalogued and organized.

Does anyone know the best place to source oem or equivalent fasteners for SUs? I have some screws with stripped heads etc

F19BA0B7-DE08-49AC-AC90-D7551064BB4C.thumb.jpeg.f578c7e0f3936a2d39a6238b5a7eb01a.jpeg

I did receive my blemished zstory jdm muffler. Which is a very nice unit, and for 260$ aud including shipping I couldn’t resist. I don’t know what my plan is to minimize the blemish just yet. slight damage during shipping but nothing unfixable, may just need to have a machine shop shave the tip. 

1340C919-AFE7-4EA1-8243-ED6B169AFCF1.thumb.jpeg.85f73a0fe65c7a9aeb697756955b2cfc.jpegCED89B7D-CBAE-4F8C-B952-C9FE80CE5015.thumb.jpeg.a5285db78314430fb28d05a261e2963a.jpeg1C244600-1B94-4F8E-AC33-20AC9B585DDB.thumb.jpeg.048d8a7edfea9275612a776ec26727a5.jpeg

im hoping I’m able to make some decent progress this year. Wish me luck 

Ryan 

the SU carb guys in Oregon should be able to hook you up with SU carb hardware.
 

Like Zed pointed out, a bit of wood on the inside (hardwood, like oak, or even better, ironwood), and use a hard plastic mallet on the outside to tap down on either side of the downward deformation should straighten it up. You will likely need to sand and polish the stainless after, to clean up any marring or scratches. 
 

It won’t even be noticeable.

Edited by Racer X
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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks @dutchzcarguy! 

On 1/18/2021 at 1:39 AM, Racer X said:

the SU carb guys in Oregon should be able to hook you up with SU carb hardware.
 

Like Zed pointed out, a bit of wood on the inside (hardwood, like oak, or even better, ironwood), and use a hard plastic mallet on the outside to tap down on either side of the downward deformation should straighten it up. You will likely need to sand and polish the stainless after, to clean up any marring or scratches. 

Thanks X I have packed the muffler away for now but I will give this ago when the time comes, thanks for the advice. 

Do you mean z therapy? I just bought a diy rebuild kit from them and asked if they could supply fixings they said no....¬†ūüėĘ

ryan 

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Unfortunately I have not had time to work on the car since New Years . My mum is unwell and I have had to spend a lot of time with her. 

Managed to put this together. Another massive thanks to @ConVerTT for creating and sharing this jig. I’ve never done metal work before this and if this inspires even one person to give it a go I’ve accomplished something! 

Ryan 

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  • 2 weeks later...

More pieces of the jigsaw puzzle arrived today.
 

Took MSA aka the z store 6 months to get these to me. Worst customer service I’ve ever experienced. I discourage anyone thinking of purchasing from them unless completely necessary. 

hopefully KF vintage jdm starts making these soon, the tabco pieces are very rough. But they will get the job done. 

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  • 1 month later...

Minor update

chassis jig is complete! Photos and video coming soon.

I managed to free my carb insulator blocks from the intake manifold with a razor blade and cleaned them up. The gasket was pretty much glued to one of the blocks, attacked it with the razor blade and was careful not to inflict any damage. cleaned up further with paper towel and sugar soap.  Came out pretty good!

Question: are my blocks ok to reuse and do people normally recoat/varnish these blocks before reusing? If so what product would one use? 
 

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ryan 

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1 hour ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Minor update

chassis jig is complete! Photos and video coming soon.

I managed to free my carb insulator blocks from the intake manifold with a razor blade and cleaned them up. The gasket was pretty much glued to one of the blocks, attacked it with the razor blade and was careful not to inflict any damage. cleaned up further with paper towel and sugar soap.  Came out pretty good!

Question: are my blocks ok to reuse and do people normally recoat/varnish these blocks before reusing? If so what product would one use? 
 

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ryan 

Never really considered refinishing them, but they are reusable. You might give them a good coat of beeswax, on the parts that are exposed, then buff to a nice gloss.

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7 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Question: are my blocks ok to reuse and do people normally recoat/varnish these blocks before reusing? If so what product would one use? 

The gaskets on mine were practically glued on as well, just make sure they are smooth and flat before installation.  I used some sticky backed 400 grit paper on a granite flat  and worked both sides until smooth, as I remember one had a slight warp that was causing a small vacuum leak.

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On 2/5/2021 at 8:10 PM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

 

Do you mean z therapy? I just bought a diy rebuild kit from them and asked if they could supply fixings they said no....¬†ūüėĘ

ryan 

Yes, it was Z Therapy I was thinking of.

There is a seller on eBay that has screws for the carbs.

Check them out:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Float-Bowl-Suction-Chamber-Carburetor-Screws-Set/164620649300

 

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You can reuse those spacers just fine. As mentioned above, maybe hit them on a sanding surface a little to see if they're badly warped, but other than that, run 'em. If you think they're bad enough to risk not sealing, you could put a little gasket sealer on them as insurance. For those, I'd use a non-silicone type like Permatex Moto-seal. It's MEK based and (in theory) is resistant to gasoline.

So I got a question for the collective... Has anyone come up with a good "solvent" to loosen the old petrified stock original gaskets? They're hard as rocks, stuck like the dickens, and probably harder than the aluminum they're stuck to. I've got the same job ahead of me (getting spacers off intake manifolds) and I've tried the typical methods with little success.

I'm looking for a silver bullet without having to completely powderize what is probably asbestos laced old gasket material.

All these years of experience and I'm asking how to get old gaskets off... Kinda embarrassing.   LOL

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