Rio24

Right front tire rubs bumper when turning

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    Good Morning,  a new issue showed it ugly face after I installed new wheels. When from 15x7 to 15x8 and now R/F tire rubs bumper when turning left.  I have read that nissan designed R/F caster to lead a little , but this is too much.  Can this be adjusted?  Also noticed that left front wheels poke is more that right side by 8mm.  Any suggestions?  Has anyone adjusted subframe for this reason.  No frame damage is apparent

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    1 hour ago, Rio24 said:

    Good Morning,  a new issue showed it ugly face after I installed new wheels. When from 15x7 to 15x8 and now R/F tire rubs bumper when turning left.

    Have you had it on the ground or are you turning the wheel while the wheels are hanging?

    And where, exactly is it rubbing? The "bumper" is that chrome covered thing on the front of the car.

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    Hello Zed. It rubs when driving.  I have it raised now to take wheels off. Sorry I shouldve made it more clear.  It rubs on sheet metal on lower part below the chrome bumper.  Wheel well area

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    Check your T/C rod bushings.  They can get old and loose and let the wheel move forward.  New bushings might buy you some room.

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    Thanks Zed.  All bushing are new.  Replaced them last year.   I did check them out and the bushing are correctly installed and nuts and even and tight

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    I experienced the rub when I went with bigger wheels, though I'm not sure you will like my solution. The lower valence was pretty beat up on my car, so I swapped out to an air dam. The air dam did not have the clearance issues that I had with the stock valence.

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    Your photo shows a tire size of 225/50X15 and a calculator says you are about 1" smaller diameter than OE so that is not the problem.  Other than the 8" wheel width being the issue , are you running a 0 offset?

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    1 hour ago, jfa.series1 said:

    Your photo shows a tire size of 225/50X15 and a calculator says you are about 1" smaller diameter than OE so that is not the problem.  Other than the 8" wheel width being the issue , are you running a 0 offset?

    Hello. They are 0 offset.  I drove this car for 2 year with the previous wheels 15x7. Using the same times as now (225/50) and had no issues.  You can clearly a smaller gap in front of tire compared to the left side.

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    How thick is your spacer? Did you use the spacer with your previous wheels? 

    The lower valence has some adjustment. Have you tried loosening that side to see if it will move forward?

    (We see quite a few Z's with this issue when owners are changing wheels and tires... I had this issue when I first mounted my sons Rota Grids on Goldie. -> airdam)

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    If the tires have a wider wheel base their arc will be greater.  The arc of the turn can also affect what the wheel hits.

    You could always "cheat" your T/C,  Take the inner sleeve out and cut a half inch off.  Put it back together and adjust to.  Might get you there.

    Anyway, the reality is your new tires rub.  And, tires can have the same specs and still have a different shape.  I learned this in the past but the width number is actually the sidewall width, not the tread.  I always thought it was tread width but it's not.

    https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/understanding-tire-sizes-and-types

    Section width of tire (Example: P 225/45R17 91V)

    The three digits following the service type prefix (if present) tell us the cross-sectional width of the tire in millimeters.

    In the example above, the tires width, measured from the widest point of the inner sidewall to the widest point of the outer sidewall when properly mounted, is 225 millimeters.

     

    Edited by Zed Head
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    2 minutes ago, cgsheen1 said:

    How thick is your spacer? Did you use the spacer with your previous wheels? 

    The lower valence has some adjustment. Have you tried loosening that side to see if it will move forward?

    (We see quite a few Z's with this issue when owners are changing wheels and tires... I had this issue when I first mounted my sons Rota Grids on Goldie. -> airdam)

    Good eye!  Spacer is 5 mm. And I did use it.  It still rubs with if off. Puzzled because spacing is fine on drivers side.   I'm going check the valence for adjust now.  Thanks!   I'll let you know soon

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    51 minutes ago, cgsheen1 said:

    How thick is your spacer? Did you use the spacer with your previous wheels? 

    The lower valence has some adjustment. Have you tried loosening that side to see if it will move forward?

    (We see quite a few Z's with this issue when owners are changing wheels and tires... I had this issue when I first mounted my sons Rota Grids on Goldie. -> airdam)

    I agree with cgsheen1......there is some adjustment in the front lower valence. Most everyone that installs wider wheels will run into this issue. Just futz with the adjustment till you get max clearance.....I think this will solve your issue.

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    Thanks Guys.   I'm about to tackle that now.  Looking for bolts under the Ziebart

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    Thanks guys.  Adjusted valence and now enough room to drive.   Still very close but good enough for now.  Went for a drive and got back and smell fuel from under the hood.  Rub my hand underneath carb. Found carb leaking where meets intake.   Who wants to buy a 240Z?! 

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    Tap on the carb with something solid.  I've fixed stuck boat carb floats with a closed pocket knife.  Tap, tap ,tap. A heavy wrench is good.  

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    2 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

    Tap on the carb with something solid.  I've fixed stuck boat carb floats with a closed pocket knife.  Tap, tap ,tap. A heavy wrench is good.  

     

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    3 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

    Tap on the carb with something solid.  I've fixed stuck boat carb floats with a closed pocket knife.  Tap, tap ,tap. A heavy wrench is good.  

    Would the choke mech leak if float value was stuck?  Its wet  If I touch underneath at carb/intake spacer.   Not leaking out of air horns. What you guys think

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    Sorrry.  Carb  plural.  Even better, they're so exposed.  Not kidding, the float needles or the floats themselves get stuck.  It's just a fact of floats.

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    Just now, Rio24 said:

    Would the choke mech leak if float value was stuck?  Its wet  If I touch underneath at carb/intake spacer.   Not leaking out of air horns. What you guys think

    The carb guys know more about the choke mechanics on those carbs.  Sometimes, "choke" means different things on different carbs.

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    4 minutes ago, Rio24 said:

     

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    Sorry, I didn't know you had triples. It's definitely not the float bowl hose. LOL That's only for SU carburetors. I am still thinking stuck float. Pull the plugs for the cylinders associated with that carburetor and see if they have a strong smell of gas.

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    2 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

    Sorry, I didn't know you had triples. It's definitely not the float bowl hose. LOL That's only for SU carburetors. I am still thinking stuck float. Pull the plugs for the cylinders associated with that carburetor and see if they have a strong smell of gas.

    Ok.  Thanks Steve 

     

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