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Her Majesty the 26th


26th-Z

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To make this "build thread' complete, I should rewind for a moment and discuss how I got to this point.  Much of this has been posted before, buried in the archives somewhere.

I bought 26th in 1984 from the estate of the original owner.  Rob bought the car new from a local Datsun dealer and I remember when he bought it.  26th was imported in Jacksonville Florida and delivered in May, 1970.  When Rob passed away, his son who is a very close friend asked me if I wanted to buy the car from the estate.  I drove 26th for several years and decided to do this restore after dealing with rust issues on two separate occasions.  She was literally rusting from the inside out and major work was needed.

There is a place in Wachula, Florida that provides a complete rust removal process called reverse electrolysis.  The body shell is immersed in a big tank with electrodes and a sacrificial anode to remove all the iron oxides resulting in bare, rust free, metal.

SilverPenneybody.jpg

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To insure that the interior chassis areas would not start rusting again, etching primer was sprayed inside the body panels with a garden pump sprayer and a long plastic wand.  All the seams had to be sealed.  The complete body had to be wiped down with a metal prep etching wash.  This was all done on a lift.

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Finally the whole chassis was sprayed in a continuous primer.  I started to place the sound deadening "tar mat" sections, but didn't like the material and that's about the time that the economy fell on it's ear and my income went to hell.

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The engine is going back together without the emission control hardware.  I have an exhaust manifold without the air injection ports and the non-emission intake manifold.  I happen to really like the Hitachi carburetor design, have worked with them during my British car SU days and will use Z-Therapy rebuilds (perhaps slightly modified).  I decided to paint my valve cover wrinkle black as a throw-back to my racing days.

I'll post more pictures of other completed components soon.  I have to start taking pictures!

Wrinkle.jpg

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Thank you for sharing all of this @26th-Z and kudos to you for making the car your own.  I know some would run moan and groan about not making it 100% stock when you have everything to do so.  However, no matter how rare or low the VIN, these cars were meant to be driven and enjoyed.  Everything you are doing will make it a fun car to drive.  Plus, if you ever wanted to return it to 100% stock, you could.  Keep up the great work!

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Hi Chris.  

Glad to hear your plans for 26th and 27th are finally back on track.  As you may know, I had 

reproduced, along with others, the red mastervac decals being sold by Motorsport and Banzai.

More recently I  have made the earlier ‘69-‘70  mastervac decal, also very nice and yet to be offered for sale.

let me know if they would be of interest to you.

the second  photo is an original decal, the first, my reproduction.  Colors, not well illustrated in

the photos, are very accurate.

Dan

 

 

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Edited by AZ-240z
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  • 2 years later...

Can you share any pics of the underside?  I've got Raptor waiting in a box.  I hope to be able to apply it to the underside of the car I am restoring in a few weeks or so.  

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Let me begin by saying that this was an experiment to capture what I believe was the original 'finish' of the bottom of an early 240-Z.  Originally, 26th was covered in a dealer applied bituminous undercoating that covered everything down there.  Fortunately, a good amount of original factory build stuff was preserved.  Factory markings and paint dabs, for instance.  When I scraped all that off I noticed a texture to the original paint coating - a real heavy orange peel texture.  27th was not undercoated and exhibits the same.

For 26th, I did not try to mimic any masking of the application that may have defined the areas applied at the factory.  You have to take the car apart or crawl up underneath to criticise.  The Raptor has a lot more texture than I expected however I am quite happy with it.  I think it's going to be a bitch to clean.  Raptor comes in black color and this was mixed with 907 green.  I would say it is a shade darker, but it shows well and I am happy.  Next time, I'm going to thin the paint a little more and try for a smoother texture.

Raptor-001.jpg

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, 26th-Z said:

Let me begin by saying that this was an experiment to capture what I believe was the original 'finish' of the bottom of an early 240-Z.  Originally, 26th was covered in a dealer applied bituminous undercoating that covered everything down there.  Fortunately, a good amount of original factory build stuff was preserved.  Factory markings and paint dabs, for instance.  When I scraped all that off I noticed a texture to the original paint coating - a real heavy orange peel texture.  27th was not undercoated and exhibits the same.

For 26th, I did not try to mimic any masking of the application that may have defined the areas applied at the factory.  You have to take the car apart or crawl up underneath to criticise.  The Raptor has a lot more texture than I expected however I am quite happy with it.  I think it's going to be a bitch to clean.  Raptor comes in black color and this was mixed with 907 green.  I would say it is a shade darker, but it shows well and I am happy.  Next time, I'm going to thin the paint a little more and try for a smoother texture.


Well, it came out very nice on your car.   For the car I am restoring, I share your observations regarding the factory coating having a really heavy orange peel texture.   Raptor liner (it is a truck bed liner), mixed per spec, and as sprayed from their application gun doesn't lay down quite as smoothly as the factory texture, but it is closer than other spray on liner protection coatings.  I researched quite extensively before I decided to buy Raptor liner.  Additionally, however, I have two videos to provide which I found very interesting and which provide information which may help to achieve a finish like the factory coating.  

Jump to 20:50 to see the resulting finish for the tintable stuff this guy achieved with the standard gun that comes with the kit and I think 60 psi at the regulator:

It is still more textured that the factory stuff, but closer than any other bed liner I researched.  That said, here is another video that I found where a guy using Raptor liner over dash parts and achieving a surface that literally allowed the original texture of the dash to show through.  I question the use of this product on dash parts, but I plan to experiment with the same, cheap gun, drilled out nozzle, more reducer and less hardener, as well as different air pressures to attempt to get a lot closer to the original factory look. 

Jump to 11:48: He uses a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun with the nozzle drilled out to 2 mm.  And he uses 20% reducer instead of 10% and half to three quarter of the amount of the hardener called for, so that the sprayed material doesn't set up as quickly.  Finished dash is shown closer to the end of the video.

 

Most of the coating on my car is still in good shape.  There are many areas that were impacted at some point, however.  My plan is to try to replicate the original texture in those spots as best I can, probably using the raptor gun and Raptor thinned to 20%.  Hopefully, I can get a good result there, and then, I want to spray a very thin coating over the existing factory coating using the method in the second video.  I hope the new coat won't add any texture, but that it will allow the factory texture to show in the new coat.

Edited by inline6
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21 hours ago, 26th-Z said:

It has been one long journey.  Three different body shops, years of storage, but she will be coming home next week to begin the reassembly process.  Finally!

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I have been wondering how 26th was coming along.  Congrats on getting the paint done.  It looks great!  Enjoy the re-assembly.

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