Engine test stand

[Dave WM]

A few things I need to work on, clearly running too cold, as disconnecting the water temp switch was required to operate (infinite resistance) also I would like to use a start switch so I can take advantage of the "Start signal" enrichment from the ECU. The cold start valve leaks from the plastic crimp, I replaced it with a good one but the thermo time was Kaput. Its prob not needed anyway as even with the constant water running it prob is too warm to fire (its in the 80's here and the water temp running thru the engine was maybe 70f, which may or may not fire).

Hope the Rad and thermostat will get more normal operating temps to better test out the ECU. Also the AAR I think is stuck open, the idle screw had to be fully closed and it still idled too high from the sounds of it. I have a spare AAR and will go ahead and install a spare thermo time just for the heck of it. I can get one of those universal start switches as well hooked up.

 

[Dave WM]

Long range plan... the wood go kart I always wanted to build as a 8 yr old.

[Zed Head]

When I was messing with mine I blocked the AAR port and just opened up the idle screw for starting then slowly closed it up as the engine got warm.  I had a leaky radiator but no fan.  Took a while to get steamy.

 

[Dave WM]

28 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

When I was messing with mine I blocked the AAR port and just opened up the idle screw for starting then slowly closed it up as the engine got warm.  I had a leaky radiator but no fan.  Took a while to get steamy.

 

I like that AAR plan. I have a rad coming from JSM was planning on just putting a box fan in front of it.

[JSM]

1 hour ago, Dave WM said:

I like that AAR plan. I have a rad coming from JSM was planning on just putting a box fan in front of it.

Radiator ready to go! I’m off tomorrow too if you want to swing by. Have a box fan too if you need one. 

Also have an old school charger if you need it. 

Edited April 19, 2019 by JSM

[Dave WM]

I will try to come by sometime early afternoon if that's ok. I got my charger fixed, I will have to re install the alt to get the fan belt to work (for the pump), I may even hook up the external regulator so I can keep the battery charged.

[Dave WM]

thx Jeff!

 

[Dave WM]

Got the regulator in last night, just need to get a T Stat, the universal ign switch, and wire that in and should be good to go for engine run test 2.0

I did check my stash and I have a very clean and tested AAR. so will prob swap out that (after I confirm the ign switch is powering the connector when in the run position.

So other than the CSV not firing (too warm here in Cen Fla this time of year) the EFI should be fully functional. I did not bother with the dual timing since my 75 does just fine on a single contact anyway. But I will check on the vacuum to the distributor. I presume it connects to the ported vacuum? I assume it retards at idle?.

The last run it required infinite resistance from the water temp sensor (disconnect) I presume do to the cold temps of the water cooling (no thermostat and constant cool water from hose).

Hopefully with the temps working the engine will operate with the sensor connected up as it should be. I do have a good sending unit for the gauge as well, its not installed the one in there test open. I would like to hook it up and keep an eye on the water temps. That and the oil pressure. Once I get all this up and running (hopefully ideal running) I will have to decide on whats next.

Seriously thinking turbo, but that will require quite a bit of research. I would like to keep in low boost max 10psi but I know that would require at the min pulling the head for a new gasket and some good head bolts. I suppose going turbo means I would really need to get the block cleaned, bearing for rod and crank etc... oil pump upgrade...at a minimum. Again will think on that for  while.

I will post up another video later this week or weekend after I get the latest setup  ready to run.

 

[Captain Obvious]

18 hours ago, Dave WM said:

I will check on the vacuum to the distributor. I presume it connects to the ported vacuum? I assume it retards at idle?.

The last run it required infinite resistance from the water temp sensor (disconnect) I presume do to the cold temps of the water cooling (no thermostat and constant cool water from hose).

Yes, the vacuum source is ported. There should be no vacuum at idle, and then slightly above idle (think light cruise), the vacuum peaks. From there, the vacuum will drop off above that point down to zero at WOT. So it never "retards"... It just provides no vacuum at idle, so the timing just reverts back to the base setting

And about the temp sensor... Unless you are in Antarctica, I don't think there should ever be a situation where your engine would be cold enough that it would need the sensor to be completely disconnected to run right. Even with constant cool water from a hose, that temp sensor will be getting way warm enough to be providing meaningful input to the ECU. If you need to disconnect it to get the engine to run, then I think there's a problem somewhere in the system.

[Dave WM]

29 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Yes, the vacuum source is ported. There should be no vacuum at idle, and then slightly above idle (think light cruise), the vacuum peaks. From there, the vacuum will drop off above that point down to zero at WOT. So it never "retards"... It just provides no vacuum at idle, so the timing just reverts back to the base setting

And about the temp sensor... Unless you are in Antarctica, I don't think there should ever be a situation where your engine would be cold enough that it would need the sensor to be completely disconnected to run right. Even with constant cool water from a hose, that temp sensor will be getting way warm enough to be providing meaningful input to the ECU. If you need to disconnect it to get the engine to run, then I think there's a problem somewhere in the system.

well should be able to test soon, got the ign switch (to add the start enrichment) and thermostat last night. going to replace the AAR while at it with the tested one.

I know the AFM is ok since I tested it on my car (worked fine) and the ECU was tested. I was thinking with NO start enrichment maybe the disconnected water temp sensor was compensating for that.

Edited April 24, 2019 by Dave WM

[JSM]

21 hours ago, Dave WM said:

Seriously thinking turbo, but that will require quite a bit of research. I would like to keep in low boost max 10psi but I know that would require at the min pulling the head for a new gasket and some good head bolts. I suppose going turbo means I would really need to get the block cleaned, bearing for rod and crank etc... oil pump upgrade...at a minimum. Again will think on that for  while.

Based on everything I've ever researched and read at HybridZ I wouldn't touch the head Dave. Leave it alone.  The compression ratios aren't that different than the P90/F54 combos especially < 10PSI. 

I'd save the $ just in case you pop the gasket during your tuning and have to do it then!

[Dave WM]

good point Jeff, I am having a lot of fun just messing with it.