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inline4

remove undercoating

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Originally posted by inline4

what do you suggest as a method.

the donor floorpans are out of the car already

A scraper and elbow grease. You can soften the undercoat with solvent, or application of heat from a heat gun.

Don't try to heat with a torch, you'll burn the undercoat.

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Originally posted by inline4

solvent like what? acetone?

too expensive.

Regular Paint Thinner will do just fine. Let soak in a bit then scrape

DO NOT USE HEAT AND SOLVENT!!!!

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how long is the leadtime for por 15 to ship if i buy it? I'm gonna have it cleaned and prepped hopefully within the week. just no undercoat and I want to clean up the interior...

the floors are red and the car is mexican orange :)

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Originally posted by inline4

how long is the leadtime for por 15 to ship if i buy it? I'm gonna have it cleaned and prepped hopefully within the week. just no undercoat and I want to clean up the interior...

the floors are red and the car is mexican orange :)

The POR Distributor in Sacramento can ship it within a day or two. UPS will take another couple of days to deliver it. Order a week ahead of time to be safe.

BTW, POR must be applied to BARE metal (applied over paint, it does NOTHING!) , properly prepared with "Marine CLean" and "Metal Ready". Both are products sold by POR. Order it all at once. Ask question of the distributor. They have lots of advice to help you.

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Originally posted by inline4

so before i have the floors welded in should i strip it completely of paint?

Doesn't matter when you do it, so long as you DO it. Probably easier to do with the pans out of the car. Easier access and all that.

If you don't strip them and properly prepare them, you will be wasting your money on POR.

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the por 15 distributors website advises against sanding but sandblasting, and acid is fine. what method should i use?

engine degreaser seems to be taking the asphalt off fine by the way.

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hey... after using por 15 on the bottom, should I use chassiscoat or should i undercoat with rubber.

if i undercoat, what else do i need to prep before spraying the rubber?

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Originally posted by inline4

hey... after using por 15 on the bottom, should I use chassiscoat or should i undercoat with rubber.

if i undercoat, what else do i need to prep before spraying the rubber?

You can undercoat after the POR if you want to. Will help keep road noise down a bit. ChassisCoat is not "necessary" for the bottom unless you want to do it. POR and undercoat is enough. Let the POR dry for a week or more, then cleanand dry the surface and undercoat.

You should consider doing the POR to the interior as well because if the door weatherseals leak, water will get in and stay hidden under the carpet/floormatts for a long time and will rot the floors from the inside. I did inside and outside of the floorpans on my Z so I KNOW I won't be doing it again EVER!

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Originally posted by drunkenmaster

What did you put over the POR on the inside?

This is my biggest problem...

I applied the POR ChassisCoat Black Paint over the POR15 on the inside of the floorpans. This summer I will replace the tarmat stuff that I had to remove to apply the POR with something. Haven't decided exactly what to use yet. There was a Thread here a while back suggesting several options for the Tar Mat.

As I recall (I could be wrong) one was "Q-Pads", and another was "Dyna-Mat". I need to do more research before I settle on what to use.

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Whats the finish on the chassis coat like?

Did you spray on or brush on?

Does it resemble paint in the sense that it is thin enough to show signs of future rust (well as much as 2pack paint would anyhow)

Thanks

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only thing that will suck is once I put the por 15 down, I dont want any crap getting wet and molding or getting wet and taking a long tgime to dry

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Originally posted by drunkenmaster

Whats the finish on the chassis coat like?

Did you spray on or brush on?

Does it resemble paint in the sense that it is thin enough to show signs of future rust (well as much as 2pack paint would anyhow)

Thanks

Finish was similar to the POR but without the sensitivity to UV, I brushed it on. Spraying their products requires special filteration for breathing and I don't have a compressor either. The ChassisCoat is similar in consistancy to POR.

If the POR has beeen properly applied, I don't think you would need to worry about signs of rust in the future. It is NOT as thin as regular paint though.

I have 2 coats of POR and 1 coat of ChassisCoat on the underside AND same on the inside of my floorpan.

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Originally posted by inline4

only thing that will suck is once I put the por 15 down, I dont want any crap getting wet and molding or getting wet and taking a long tgime to dry

You will need to make sure that your door seals are in good shape and stay that way. Also make sure that your windsheild seal is in good shape too.

POR or no POR, any water that gets down there WILL take a LONG time to dry and will cause the carpets, and any underpadding to get moldy.

The Dyna-Mat or Q-Pads shouldn't mold, but carpet padding and carpets will.

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Originally posted by drunkenmaster

Was originally intending Carl, but progress pics of yours would be good too :D

Sorry, No digital camera as yet. Spending all of my (limited) money on the car, and lifes surprises.

I did one floor pan late last summer, and plan on doing the other this summer. Maybe I'll get one of those new disposeable digital cameras and document the project.

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For others, or for the initiator of this thread... I have seen a recommendation to use dry ice to get undercoat off. Apply it to the inside of the car where it can set without having to hold it to the surface. When the undercoat/tar is well cooled, it will chip off readily per the writer. I believe GrassRoots Motorsports had this article???

Becareful of getting a "burn" freezing your skin. It will happen "rightnow". Don't ask.

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Rather than play around with heating and freezing etc i got right at it yesterday with a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder. After about 2 hours I had done the outer half of the passenger underside and 3/4 of the passenger rear wheel well.

The work itself is not very hard, the hard part is manouvering yourself under the car. Now i see why people swear by rotisseries. I have the car up on 40cm jack stands and while it is adequate, it aint easy.

Also the dust/particles from the underbody go everywhere (as i was told as well), I had a face shield and breather mask and its still got all over my face and neck, hands and overalls. Spent a good 15 minutes cleaning out of my ears :ermm:

Took a break today as I have to go out for dinner tonight, but hopefully will have it all done this week.

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Last Thursday afternoon I removed 85% of the undercoat on the Passenger side floorpan with a 1600W Hair Dryer and a 1.75" Stiff Blade Scraper. Took me 2 hours and 45 minutes, including jacking the car, clean up of the floor and me, and lowering the car, closing up the shop.

The remaining 15% (edges near the rocker panels & very rear of the pan will be done this week with a non-metallic abrasive wire wheel.

Also removed the complete "Tar Mat" from the inside of the passenger area on Wednesday of last week. 2 hours even. No heat, No dry ice, just a stiff 1.75" scraper and elbow grease.

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