motorman7

We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!

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1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

What he said. There are two completely separate (identical?) disks. I'll see if I can get a pic of the parts and post them.

Thanks, Capt and motorman! That's really helpful info because the disk doesn't SEEM like it comes apart and I was afraid I would bend it by prying on it too much. I'll try soaking it.

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Glad to help. Here's some pics. This is all the parts for the power valve:
P1150494.JPG

And here's a close-up of the washers in question:
P1150500.JPG

Here's the parts assembled on the sealing bolt sans diaphragm. The diaphragm goes between the two large washers:
P1150501.JPG

Good luck!!

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7 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Glad to help. Here's some pics. This is all the parts for the power valve:
P1150494.JPG

And here's a close-up of the washers in question:
P1150500.JPG

Here's the parts assembled on the sealing bolt sans diaphragm. The diaphragm goes between the two large washers:
P1150501.JPG

Good luck!!

That's awesome. I'm in Vegas for work this week, but will start soaking mine when I get back this weekend. thanks again!

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Today on the Facebook S30 group page is a post from an Australian titled "Flat Tops FTW 😂".  The post was just a video of a walk around of a smoothly running right hand drive  240/260Z with the Flat tops shown at the end of the video.  Looks like they are getting some international love.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/480008718866422/permalink/1132514976949123/

 

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On 8/7/2019 at 12:21 PM, Captain Obvious said:

Glad to help. Here's some pics. This is all the parts for the power valve:
P1150494.JPG

And here's a close-up of the washers in question:
P1150500.JPG

Here's the parts assembled on the sealing bolt sans diaphragm. The diaphragm goes between the two large washers:
P1150501.JPG

Good luck!!

I had some family things going on that kept me from getting back to this right away, but I've tried soaking mine and I don't think mine actually come apart. The way they go together is quite different from yours in the pics above. Mine don't have a bolt through the center holding it together. I've added a few pics of mine. Do I have a different model of some type?

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I think I see the divot from the original lock washer dug out of the one washer. Something has to go through the middle. I'm thinking you misplaced some parts?

BTW, that float valve does not have anything to do with the power valve, right? It's only in those pics to show scale size or something?

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Had the pleasure of meeting jayhawk today at the JCCS and saw the finished Z car.... motorman7 did an incredible job restoring this vehicle. This car was hands down the best OE restoration vehicle at the entire show. Every detail was nailed spot on! Here's a few pics that don't even come close to doing justice to this incredible restoration. If any forum members get a chance to see this car in person you are in for a real treat. This is a museum quality vehicle. Kudos to you both and to your body/paint guy.... amazing work!

 

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Jaw dropping fantastic! It's been almost 30 years since I had my 73, but I don't remember this smallish tube that I've marked in red. What is it?

73.png

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Thanks @mbz !  It really was a fun show and the car got lots of attention.  Amazing how many cars there were (over 500) and the crowds that came out to the show.

On 9/22/2019 at 3:51 AM, 240260280 said:

It just needs the papers in the window!

It has papers in the window...the original dealer sticker is posted on the passenger side ☺️.  I don't think any other vehicle at the show had that.

 

On 9/22/2019 at 6:59 AM, w3wilkes said:

Jaw dropping fantastic! It's been almost 30 years since I had my 73, but I don't remember this smallish tube that I've marked in red. What is it?

That is a small metal vacuum tube that goes to the EGR valve solenoid.  It's a bit kinked, but still functional.

 

Also, we got the judging sheets back. (Note: car is actually a 1973 and not a 1971, wonder which judge wrote that down)  I think we did fairly well in spite of the mad scrambling the last couple weeks to get everything ready for the show.  We were marked off 3 points for dirt behind the seats.  Will have to pay better attention to that next time. Seems like a lot of points off just for dirt, but oh well.

I was surprised the we were marked off for the bead blast finish on the valve cover and intake manifold.  I thought that looked pretty close to stock that way, but apparently not.  I wonder if all judges would mark that off or if it was just this judge.  Personally, I thought the flat tops were too shiny and we would get dinged for that. We were also missing a few small vacuum tube clamps.   That has since been corrected along with the kinked hose that has now been replaced with the correct hose (Thanks @Zup ).

Most of the other items I was aware of and was surprised that we did not get marked off for some other items I knew about, like the rear carpet plastic trim finisher which was installed backwards or luggage straps that were installed with hex bolts among other things.  These have since been corrected now that we have time, but I would have marked me off for those things.  Guess that makes up for the 3 point dirt deduction.

Anyway, the shows have been great fun.  Car is now on it's way up to it's new home in the Bay area with @jayhawk .  

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On 9/21/2019 at 8:14 PM, mbz said:

Had the pleasure of meeting jayhawk today at the JCCS and saw the finished Z car.... motorman7 did an incredible job restoring this vehicle. This car was hands down the best OE restoration vehicle at the entire show. Every detail was nailed spot on! Here's a few pics that don't even come close to doing justice to this incredible restoration. If any forum members get a chance to see this car in person you are in for a real treat. This is a museum quality vehicle. Kudos to you both and to your body/paint guy.... amazing work!

 

MBZ, thanks for stopping by and the kind words.  Motorman7 and Miguel have done magic with my Z and when I get in it, I feel like I'm 24 years old again.  (my age when I bought that Z in '73.  Hope that doesn't make me "museum quality")  😉  

 

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Now the Z is back home in N. California.  I'll be driving it to local shows for the next year or two.  I'll be at the Neillo Concours Serano at the El Dorado Hills country club in Sacramento on Sunday, Oct 6th.  It seems to me that these concours events value originality and authenticity more than the japanese car events.  But most concours events seem to be more focused on old European and American iron.  I'm just going to see if I can get my Datsun up close to some antique Rolls.  Bet I get bigger crowds!

Finally home. Need to get a anti door ding barrier built, and some netting for the shelves to protect against the next quake...

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Rich, I'm 100% sure about the color being gold, but these are silver.  What do you think?   

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On 9/24/2019 at 5:15 PM, 240Z73 said:

Oops, I mean I'm not 100% sure about the correct color being gold.

I can not say that I have seen silver decals.  I checked on my '70Z and even that is still gold in spite of its nearly 50 years of age. I thought maybe the gold could fade to silver, but not what I have seen.

Bit of a late response here, sorry about that.  

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Great thread with a lot of great info!  I have a plating related question.  Did the plating process ruin any rubber/plastic?  Did the vacuum advance still function after plating?

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@Zaspen That is really a good question as there is more to plating than just sending the parts.

1) Typically rubber does fine and is not effected by the acids.

2) Plastic is a little more hit and miss.  Some types seem to not be affected by the acids, others are affected.  I notice that the plastic on the end of the carb linkages do not handle the chemicals so well.  They come back very clean but seem to loose some of their shape.

3)  The bigger problem is 'Cavities'.  This is a big problem. The Vac advance would fall into this category.  What happens is the liquid that is used in the processing gets into the cavities of these parts and does not get fully rinsed or evaporated from the cavities.  Then, during shipping, as the box is manhandled and vibrated, the processing liquid comes out of the cavities and stains the other parts in the box. The cavity parts also corrode very quickly because this liquid is still inside.  So now, I send the cavity parts for plating separately from the regular parts.  Cavity parts get their own separate shipping bag with instructions to dry longer and ship separately (in bags) from the standard nuts and fasteners.

4)  Also, on the last vacuum advance I sent in (without special instructions) it came back with the internals very corroded.  So, I ended up using a vacuum advance with light gold paint to somewhat mimic the gold zinc plate.

 

Edited by motorman7

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@motorman7 thanks for the info. This would explain why the fuel rail I bought from ZThearpy was very corroded on the inside and under the rubber caps that were on the ends. 

Do you think there is any way to cap off cavity devices? Obviously the rubber covers used by ZThearpy didnt work so well. 

I've been in contact with Sav On Plating and they seem easy to work with. I read in this thread about how you bent the fuel rails into 48x48" max sizes to get plated. Did you do this at SavOn? I didn't get the impression that they had a tank that big. I was told if it fits into a 5 gallon bucket I should be good. 

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The 48" tanks are at the local plating shop which I typically only use for quick turn around.  Personally, I think the plating at my local shop is too dark and not shiny enough.

I spoke with Sav-On and they said they could handle parts up to six feet.  This works well for the brake and fuel lines because then you only have to fold them in half.  This makes for a better bend location as the middle portion that you bend would be in the transmission tunnel and not very visible. Also, it is in a straight section which is easier to manage.

 Folding in 48 inch lengths is not as good as the bend now is in the engine bay area of the tubing and there are other bends in that location.  This makes things a bit more challenging.

The cost for the larger tank items is more than the 5 gallon bucket items.  These large parts get charged individually so the price is a bit higher.  I do however, really like the quality of their work.  They do a great job.

When i send in the fuel and brake lines, I will cap them with tight fitting caps.

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