Elliott000

Discussion on idea for "air horn" fix

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    I agree on using a thicker stock which I have already. I think ill go the route of multiple pieces attached to make a final form. At least it doesn't have to look amazing since she's covered up. I did get excited when I seen that one guy who just cut em off and layed flat stock over it. But I'm not going that way, I agree these are an important part of the front structure. I'll post up pics as I go along of whatever I create.

     

    I tried finding nos for sale with those part numbers but no go, ill keep browsing

     

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    14 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

    I think ill go the route of multiple pieces attached to make a final form.

    Grannyknot did some comparable fab work when he modified the front crossmember on his 240 to provide clearance for the sump of the BMW he was installing.  Maybe he can post a sketch of how he'd go about fabbing this part.

    Great reference pix posted by 240260280.  Notice the doubler plate that's installed in the region right next to the shock tower.

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    10 hours ago, Namerow said:

    Grannyknot did some comparable fab work when he modified the front crossmember on his 240 to provide clearance for the sump of the BMW he was installing.  Maybe he can post a sketch of how he'd go about fabbing this part.

     

    Thanks John but Elliott seems very competent.

    Elliott, I was thinking about what you said and you could do it by using steel plate in the shape of a sideways T, 3/16th"  it would probably weight 4x as much as the air horn box but you could do it.

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    I appreciate the confidence! I'm new to the sheet metal game, im used to building for 37 or 40 inch tires and a v8 haha. I actually made some headway today. I cut the passenger side rust off the bulkhead and i can actually make this happen with about three pieces. I've bent a straight run for the middle section that maintains a width on top of about 1 5/8 inch. I don't have pics of that peice but I will tommorow. The two ends I'll have to get creative with a couple relief cuts and maybe a triangle or two to make things blend in. Overall I think ill be good to go. I do however need to make the two thin er parts that come along the end by the hood mounts. That will be the biggest challenge now. 20180611_103944.jpeg

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    image.png

    I guess you could do this if you want to stay in your comfort zone...LOL

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    Update, heres what I have conceived..... Hammering on a buck with heavier guage would suck so im bent the contour into some straight stock and ill do reliefs to follow the contour and then dress the seams with some welding. Where it make drastic direction Change on the right ill start with a fresh peice with a custom shoulder in it. Once I sew it up and grinder it will appear almost as stock aside from the square corner at the bottom where it ties into the wheel well. 20180622_211418.jpeg20180622_211436.jpeg

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    Nicely Done. Elegant solution just be sure to test fit the fender over it before welding the repair, there are a few places where the clearance is fairly tight between those two pieces. 

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    Hey would one of you fine folks be able to measure on your cars the distance between the inside faces of the "nose" when the hoods up? I gotta rebuild my upper core support brace and with the bent up front end I don't want to trust whit I have for numbers. Here's a pic of someone else's car, but I'd like the inside measurement between the two faces at the rad support upper member /radiator if that makes sense LOL. 20180623_121129.jpeg

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    My attempts for repair are struggling! While that one run I posted in the middle is pretty straight forward im struggling with shaping the metal for where it ties in the back and gets wider and also I assume I'll have a hard go at making the front. Any suggestions or links to tin bashing and forming steel into odd shapes? I have a set of hammer and Dolly's plus various other smashing devices and a oxy/acetelyne torch should i need heat. Im wondering if i should have used the stock guage steel to simplify shaping

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    Yes, you should use stock gauge, which is probably 20 for that piece. What are you using now? I find 20 is pretty easy to work with, 18 is a fair bit more difficult. It doesn't like to bend like 20 does, which I can basically adjust with just my hands.

    I'm not sure what specifically you're having trouble with, but maybe look into a shrinker/stretcher.

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    I used 18 on the straight run. As posted a few posts up. I just dont know how to form the flat pieces up the front

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    Post some pics of the area you are trying recreate and what you have so far,  nobody will laugh...too much.  As rturbo mentioned, 20ga is nice to work with an you can always add stiffeners afterward to strengthen it.

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    Will do, people can laugh I'm good with it haha! I'll be around tomorrow and snap some shots.

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    You're a confident welder.  Maybe you should stop trying to think about forming difficult shapes from a single piece of sheet.  Yes, it can be done... but do you really want to go down that path?  How about forming smaller sections and then tacking them together? 

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    8 hours ago, wheee! said:

    Here's an example of how I replicated a difficult curved area with small pieces welded together.

    My point, exactly (and a very nice piece of fab work by our friend in Ft. Saskatoon).  Try replicating the overall panel with pieces of 'box board' (aka packaging from a grocery store frozen pizza), using masking tape to hold the pieces together.  The box board will only be happy bending in one plane (kind of like 18-gauge steel).  Might take a few tries to get down to something you're happy with, but pizza is cheap (and goes well with beer).  Also worth remembering something the you, yourself pointed out at the beginning of this project, that being that nobody's going to see this panel after the car is finished and on the road.  All you're aiming for is a something that's structurally sound and fits.  

    Applauding your work from the sidelines.

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    Here's where I'm at tonight. It started going in good then the heat moved it abit. She burned a few holes i had to chase on the stock sheet metal but overall its there! Not as pretty as I wanted but it's solid. It's actually 16 guage I used over the straight run. Did that because of the double sheet metal I saw inside of that "tube". Now I need to figure out how to work those front little wing pieces ahead of the rad support. Slowly but surely. FedEx delivered my tabco stuff today yeehaw I got me some fresh sheet metal. Hopefully since the quarters are in relatively decdnt shape away from the rotten lip... I wont be chasing holes around ha.

     

    I appreciate all the input aswell, this is a different ball game than blasting 1/4 inch plate together. Hopefully once I'm through with all the front end stuff the rear quarter panel fit up and welding will be smooth. I'd hate to screw that up.

     

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    You didn't take that dent out first? lol.

    Make sure the rockers aren't split at the crease where the lower fender meets the rocker.

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    Ha that dent I agree. It's the same on both sides and my buddys car so I rekon it's a clearance thing?... Im not sure what u mean on the rockers.

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