Elliott000

Where to go with this rusthole

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One side looks kinda like a car! Almost done on the driver side.... Hey for the doors. Are there shims to push the top out from the a pillar a little? Shes pretty good laterall6and front to back but it could use some upper front corner out action haha. 20190101_230608.jpeg20190101_230502.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

One side looks kinda like a car! Almost done on the driver side.... Hey for the doors. Are there shims to push the top out from the a pillar a little? Shes pretty good laterall6and front to back but it could use some upper front corner out action haha. 20190101_230608.jpeg20190101_230502.jpeg

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yes

@JLPurcell

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4 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

Are there shims to push the top out from the a pillar a little?

The door hinges use 3 bolts to mount at both the door interface and the A-post interface.  However, the bolt pattern on the door mount is different from the bolt pattern on the A-post mount.  Patcon has correctly directed his comment to member JLPurcell, who had a bunch of special shim plates laser-cut by a local fab shop and had extras left over for sale.  It's not clear to me whether he had shims made for both bolt patterns vs. just one of the two.  Make sure you get the right type (or just make your own -- not rocket science).

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One off custom cardboard rad supports! We'll I hung both fenders and checked fitment of the hood and shes tight
Its good at the firewall end but sometime through all this the front wi g's have tightened up with welding I guess. I made a rig with my. Bottle jack and spread it the 1/2 inch it needs to have good gap all the way through. I cut a spacer bar to hold it where I want it, measured and designed the upper support. I'll fab that either tonight or tomorrow and install it. Should be fine, how important do you guys feel the "webbing" is... The sheetmetal that goes from one side to the other accross the front that has holes in it for wire and air etc. (see second last pic, part that the guys has patched up) i am for sure adding the corner brace up top to fender wall, and am contemplating doing a similar triangle gusset downwards rather than form a hunk of sheetmetal in there. Similar to custom job attached. (last pic) 20190103_171327.jpeg20190102_194237.jpegdownload.jpeg240z_0091.jpeg240z_011.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Elliott000 said:

how important do you guys feel the "webbing" is... The sheetmetal that goes from one side to the other accross the front that has holes in it for wire and air etc.

Yes it's important, it keeps the front from twisting,.

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That's what i figured too, gives it the rigidity. I'll make er happen as per stock and drill whatever size holes I need when the time comes

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Hey guys, couple questions on the motor. Pulled the exhaust manifold because one of the drpnt holes is pooched so im goin to asses if it's repairable or needs helicoil. Noticed front driverside engine has a hole on the block, un threaded, whats it for? Also a rear one threaded looks like it goes into the water jacket. Is that a coolant hookup when it in car?

Thanks guys20190113_182449.jpeg20190113_182310.jpeg20190113_182404.jpeg

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The left one is for the crank case ventilation pipe (although it looks small in that photo? ) and the one on the right is the block coolant drain. It should be just plugged in normal use. (although I have see one with a secondary electric pump extracting from there)

 

 

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Re the snapped-off manifold fastener:  You're looking at a steel fastener stuck in an aluminum head.  The dissimilar-metal corrosion along the threads can be really difficult to break free.  If you lead off by trying to get it out with a screw extractor, do not use a cheap one and do not get too aggressive.  It's a lot easier to drill out the fastener for a helicoil if it doesn't have a snapped-off screw extractor stuck inside it.

Some people swear by the use of a reverse-twist drill bit.  Might be worth a try... if you can find a place nearby that sells them.

Using heat from a bottle torch is a problem.  Too much flame spread, not enough focused heat.  An oxy-acetylene torch with a fine-tip flame might work, if you've got one. 

One heating option that probably will work (and makes it unnecessary to do any drilling) is to use a MIG to progressively build up an extension onto the top of the fastener (looks like you need at least 1/4" build-up here).  Once you get it above the surface of the head, you should be able to tack a nut onto the welded-up extension.  With all of the heating shock from the MIG work, you'll should then be able to twist out the fastener with a wrench.  Notice that I used the word, 'should'.

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LOL you guys are awesome. I honestly hadn't even thought of a busted stud there just a buggered hole. I'll pull the intake and get the gasket out the way. Have a good look at er. I have an oxy acetylene torch so we're good there.

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Been awhile, I installed my subframe connectors. I have to fill a couple holes on the floor still. Then I can focus on quarters and inner fenders. Once those inner are done I can finally paint the bottom and get it off the rotisserie. Factory sway bar connectors are a no go now. I'll look into the ones that come with plates for the lower diff bracket. Any ideas on decent brands or kits for front and rear matched bars? 20190118_111943.jpeg20190117_201830.jpeg

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I did some searching on this a while back. I have a sway bar thread. I settled on the ST sway bars. I think they are the cleanest mounting system with good reviews.

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And as I noted in my thread, the stock 280Z bars do NOT fit in an opposite installation. They are front of diff mount only as they are too long and overreach the rear control arm. Aftermarket antisways are the only rear of diff mounted option. Sigh

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Finally. There's a crappy gap up near the door handle. This is due to the repairs made before I got the car and full new quarter was installed. Nothing I can do to fix it with my quarter. I think I'll weld on a small piece of rod the the door edge and straighten the gap. 20190130_215513.jpeg

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6 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

I think I'll weld on a small piece of rod the the door edge and straighten the gap.

1/8" welding rod for Oxy/Acet works well, then you just grind it back to what you need.  How's the gap on the front of the door?  There are spacers you can use to push the door to the rear.

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1/8" welding rod for Oxy/Acet works well, then you just grind it back to what you need.  How's the gap on the front of the door?  There are spacers you can use to push the door to the rear.
When I had the fender on the gap up front is about as large as I would want it to be so moving the door backwards isn't really an option. I'm going to get the quarter finished off and then finalize the bottom. I'd like to get it off the rotisserie and onto its wheels. Then I will focus on fine tuning panel fitment. Thanks for the info on welding rod. I really only need it at that top pointed area of the rear of the door

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I've been a poor datsun builder LOL. I grabbed a new toy and it's distracted me. I have however gotten the drivers quarter mostly welded up. Few more hours of messing around and body metal work is done! Just need to asses the rear valance and one bumper mount. 20190224_190443.jpeg

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Holy hell boys! Been awhile LOL, update is..... All rust is removed and repaired. Epoxied the bttm and seam sealed er up and today I put on the final 2nd coat of undercoating (herculiner) I chose this stuff because I had used it on my bro co and I a used that thing hard in the bush, she held strong so I assume in this application under a car instead of a beast she will hold up fine. Pretty friggen excited to bolt on a few suspension pieces and get this thing off the stand and on ots wheels. Next up is a bit of a break from it, then set and adjust door gaps and hood /tailgate stuff. Should be ready to epoxy the body and start in on skim coats of bondo by the fall. Yay! 74624bf9ca030ce1c58530d9cf5a70e5.jpg2bd53f858f300ad173d1e1d8effe3338.jpgd73fce8230f62cb6ed8a08a49b83f8a4.jpg431040491607fd3d6180a895eb4ca016.jpg1e78c9a4703d7f0e6cb98aae4a519407.jpg15704b1dfbdd8063ae92cae38e236703.jpgb9da70530c588b83b15222bd605e8755.jpg7f1a3863a90e4e572d255ea2ff6bc349.jpg

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Alright ghys I'm now officially into the world of unkown haha. Panel fit up and the beginnings of body work. Drivers door is pretty good but the passnger door/fender is odd, the fender from PO is not straight down the edge vertical with the door, you'll see what I mean in the pics. I will shim the door out a bit to the side to mate up nice with the fender but what to do about the door gap. I can't do a lot more in terms of alignment with the door itself. I mean I could but I'll have to gri d and weld the lip at the back I think.... What's your guys thoughts on this bit of muckery

I gotta put the latch on too. Before I finish working this should I be checking how it closes and fits with the wetaher strip on or just do my gaps and ensure it all lines up nice then epoxy er up! 77a6137f0d07824c3429fbe00f1a6fd1.jpg2429c81b0fa163beaf1cf2d7e0b6a475.jpg46d31772f68d9f3e67e271dedb87ef27.jpg

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The gap at the very top is normally large like that. There is some inconsistency right above the body line. My way of going at that is grinding off metal or adding weld bead along the edge to build it out. I think I would strip the front fender to make sure what the rear edge looks like

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