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Halo8u

Transistor Module swap *PLS HELP*

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Hey guys, I'm brand new on here. I have a 75 280, and I'm having some issues. 

As most know, datsun is really weird about switching up their transistor ign modules throughout the years. Mine came with the E12-06, but I had a buddy who had a E12-27 that he'd sell me for cheap, so I grabbed it. However I've run into an issue. The 06 is a 7 pin (non cali), and the 27 is 5 pin, missing a brown and white wire. From what I've seen, the brown is a ground of sorts, but the white goes through the water temp relay to the water temp sensor (I'm assuming to advance/ retard turning when cold or at O.T.) My question is what should I do with the white wire? I may have to manually flip the relay somehow with a switch, but I might not have to. Any input will help! 

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You have a 76 fed model with dual pick-up in the distributor. The second pick-up is activated by a temperature switch and relay.

You can use the califorian model and go over the one pick-up.

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There's a whole thread about this somewhere very recent.  Search around, or maybe Eurodat remembers.  We both posted in it.  Same question, almost exactly, slightly different form.

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You can read Marks thread on it.  Its his restoration thread, but from page 68/69 hewent through a similar issue. Plenty of photos and diagrams

I changed my module to a GM HEI a couple of years back and made a sjmple instruction on what I did to do the swap.

TIU280Z1976_REV2 (1).pdf

 

Edited by EuroDat

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That was the thread.  I forgot that it was part of a much bigger one.  Never would have found it.

Halo, are you just planning ahead with a spare, or having ignition problems?  The GM HEI module swap is a better system, I think, with a new GM module, than using an old Nissan 7 pin module.  Plus, the Nissan modules were "low energy" until 1978.  And I think that after 1977 they were all 5 pin, so the -27 is probably have a low energy Nissan module.

Use the GM module and appropriate coil, remove the ballast, and you'll be able to run a wider gap on your plugs and have a stronger spark.

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My module just came in yesterday. I will be finishing the install soon. I have to work this weekend...

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I will look into doing that. I'm just trying to get spark, haven't gotten spark since I got it. It's been such a nightmare. But mine is the black box, with a 5 pin connector rather than the normal one with wires and rings to connect it. 

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1 hour ago, Halo8u said:

I think I may have a single pickup dizzy. From what I saw. How big of an issue is That?

I think that EuroDat addresses the single versus dual pickups in his writeup.  But, you don't need to swap distributors, you can use the just one of the two pickup coils that's in your current distributor.  You'll have a spare pickup coil already installed if you do it that way.  

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3 minutes ago, Halo8u said:

I will look into doing that. I'm just trying to get spark, haven't gotten spark since I got it. It's been such a nightmare. But mine is the black box, with a 5 pin connector rather than the normal one with wires and rings to connect it. 

There are some basic tests that you can do to figure out where the problem is.  Have you confirmed power to the coil?

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The 5 pin connector version E12-27 was used in the 78 model and doesn't have the dual pick-up function.

You can use it, but you will have choose one pickup and forget the white wire.

Have you done the simple checks to determine the tiu is your problem?

You can try the tests at the end of this instruction. Its for the 77 model, but the tests will workonthe 76.

Instruction - Fitting a 4-pin HEI module to 280Z 1977 RevD.pdf

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Okay so it will do the function of the white wire itself? I don't mean to sound ignorant, I'm just brand new to Z's and older cars in general. My oldest car next to this is a 92 prelude LOL

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I'll get out my multimeter and check continuity tomorrow. Reading into all of this, I think I'm going to go with a gm hei unit instead. So much more info on it, and seems a lot easier to wire up and diagnose compared to the -27. 

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You don't need to worry about the white wire, except to make sure it doesn't short out.  It's looking, though, like you're jumping ahead of your problem.  You need to confirm that the wires connected to your current module are correct.  There's only five to wrry about.  Green, red, blue, black with white stripe, and black.

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I did this same swap on my 76.  Use the 1978 Engine Electrical chapter, Transistor Ignition Unit, as a guide for testing.

Here's the proper pinout for the plug. "L" = blue.

image.png

 

Edited by Zed Head

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I did this same swap on my 76.  Use the 1978 Engine Electrical chapter, Transistor Ignition Unit, as a guide for testing.
Here's the proper pinout for the plug. "L" = blue.
image.png.6b8aaf20e35ca581cc3fa62e9fb970ee.png
 
That's how I have mine pinned. I did some more wiring and I'm going to test for spark today if my batteries I have on hand aren't dead. Also going to test for continuity beforehand so I don't burn anything up inside the module. If I still don't get continuity or spark, I'm going to go ahead and snag a gm hei unit and start fresh.

Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

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**update***
TIU is shot. Looked at the continuity test and troubleshooting pdf and I'm pretty sure it's fried. Guess I'm going GM HEI. Found them on amazon going for $40-$100. Any recommendation on a specific one?

Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

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You can get them at any auto parts store for about $25.  BWD seems like they make decent parts.  Or you can get AC Delco for about $55.

Rockauto has a wide selection also.  Don't forget the coil.  If you want to use the whole GM setup, get the module and external coil for a 1977 Nova with the 6 cylinder engine.  Or just get a good coil with about 0.6 to 1.0 ohm primary circuit resistance.  The 1978 280Z coils are in that range and will fit the bracket better.  You'd have to make a bracket for the GM coil.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/ignition---tune-up-16776/ignition-module-control-unit-ignitor-12521/1977/chevrolet/nova?q=igntion module

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/ignition---tune-up-16776/ignition-coils-19690?q=coil

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Update: life always finds a way to get in the way of the Z. I was finally able to get to Z to run. First time in 20+ years. The gm hei unit works great. However I'm not getting anything to the tach. I've looked at the wiring diagrams, and seem to have it hooked up correctly. Did anyone else have this issue when doing the gm hei swap? Thanks in advance.

"Do it in a Datsun"

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When you did your modification, you probably did not leave the tachometer connected to the negative side of the coil. The best way to do that mod involves leaving the stock wiring on the distributor, adding the additional wire for the HEI to trigger the spark, and disconnect the TIU from the wiring harness.

I'd offer to fix it at my house, but you're 5 hours away.

 

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