Patcon

510 Su's

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    Haha!! Thanks guys! I don't know about the little 38mm varieties, but there is plenty of meat on the Z flat tops. Just remember... Measure twice, cut once.

    "I cut it twice, and it's still too short." is often heard around my shop.  LOL

    Someday I'll have a pic of a car with uber-round tops installed.

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    @zKars

    I have two questions:

    What are you doing for a choke cable for your new carbs?

    It appears the heat shield is installed behind the carb and before the insulator. Did you put a gasket on each side of the heat shield? Did you put a gasket between the insulator and the manifold?

    Well maybe three questions...

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    Good question. Three possibilities. There is a 510 specific two choke cable, which I "think" I have one somewhere that needs work. If I use a Z console like I did on my 69,  I can just use a Z cable and mount it in the console.

    Last I've been trying to dream up a linkage "thingy" that converts the dual carb chokes into a single cable for 510's since the "right" one is nearly un-obtainium. Maybe some cold night the right simple design will come to me. I keep thinking of stepper motors....

    Heat shield. yes, 6 gaskets, both sides of heat shield and insulators. The back of the heat shield has gold reflective foil on it You're trying to block radiant heat directly between the header and float bowls, can't stop circulating heated air from getting around the heat shield without getting really boxy around the entire carb/fender area. Line of site baby.

    Edited by zKars

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    10 hours ago, zKars said:

    Good question. Three possibilities. There is a 510 specific two choke cable, which I "think" I have one somewhere that needs work. If I use a Z console like I did on my 69,  I can just use a Z cable and mount it in the console.

    Last I've been trying to dream up a linkage "thingy" that converts the dual carb chokes into a single cable for 510's since the "right" one is nearly un-obtainium. Maybe some cold night the right simple design will come to me. I keep thinking of stepper motors....

    Thanks Jim,

    If you find the stock 510 cable, post up some pictures, maybe I can fabricate something. I would also like to see your final choke cable as well as your 240z center console hybridization. Cody wants a  console but I don't have a plan for that yet...

    FYI I was able to get some misc parts and a heat shield from Z Therapy...

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    OK, I need some help now. I am working on Cody's SU's. I got the front one apart, cleaned, replated and reassembled. The screws were stupid tight on the dome when I disassembled it. The problem I have is when I tighten the dome down the piston doesn't want to slide. If I leave them loose it's fine. So now what? Was trying to get these done by Christmas...

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    Oh oh. Start with checking if the needle is bent and rubbing on the jet tube. 

    Try torquing down the dome screws in a slightly different order. Can it be put on 180 degrees rotated? 

    Maybe hold the piston up with your finger as you tighten it down?

    Has the plating added thickness somewhere where it shouldn't have?

    Add some oil?

    Edited by zKars

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    2 minutes ago, zKars said:

    Oh oh. Start with checking if the needle is bent and rubbing on the jet tube. 

    Try torquing down the dome screws in a slightly different order. Can it be put on 180 degrees rotated? 

    Maybe hold the piston up with your finger as you tighten it down?

    Has the plating added thickness somewhere where it shouldn't have?

    Add some oil?

    The needle is brand new. I thought about taking it out and try that to at least isolate the problem. I added some oil to the dampener chamber. The dome can only go on one way. I tried the tighten while lifting the piston technique, that is how I isolated the issue. There is nothing I plated that should cause this issue...

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    Oh sure, now the ideas get pretty thin and sketchy...

    Didn't mix up the domes/piston sets?

    Check for the tinest burrs, nicks, spider webs, nose hairs, something that's causing the dome to go on crooked....

    Lather it all up inside with tons of damper oil? 

    Color the piston all over with sharpy then get it to stick, then look for where it's touching by where the sharpy is wore off.

    Enlarge those holes where the locator pins fit to give you more position adjustment. Make whereever locates the dome looser or freer

    Edited by zKars

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    7 minutes ago, zKars said:

    Oh sure, now the ideas get pretty thin and sketchy...

    Didn't mix up the domes/piston sets?

    Check for the tinest burrs, nicks, spider webs, nose hairs, something that's causing the dome to go on crooked....

    Lather it all up inside with tons of damper oil? 

    Color the piston all over with sharpy then get it to stick, then look for where it's touching by where the sharpy is wore off.

    Enlarge those holes where the locator pins fit to give you more position adjustment. Make whereever locates the dome looser or freer

    If I remember correctly it operated correctly before disassembly. I wondered if the previous owner had mixed up the domes and then compensated by torquing the screws down. I thought I might try the other dome after I get it clean. Really frustrated by this! It looks good now but isn't gonna work the way it is...

    Why can't it just be simple?

    @240260280

    Any ideas Philip?

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    I second the vote for needle/nozzle adjustment issue. Since you've already loosened the needles, suggest you CAREFULLY remove one and see how the piston action is. This should narrow things down quickly.

    Also, another plug here for the late lamented Dime Quarterly, the last "newsletter" before everything went totally internet. Tons of good technical info, and the editor did several articles specific to SUs. All issues are available as pdf. If you can't access the site, let me know.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SZTVlNTU1N2YtZmQ2OS00ZjQwLWI1YTItMzlkZmIwNmZhZjJk/view?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SYWExMmM2YjMtMDNkMS00MDM0LTljZDQtNDU4ZGFlYjc5YjI2/view?usp=sharing

    ISSUE INDEX -- https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/0ByCvxnHNk90SYzc4N2E1MWEtMzg0MC00YTE4LTkxZGQtM2RjODA5ODA1YjU1?hl=en

    TOPIC INDEX -- https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SREtNSjQ2Wm9INzg/view?usp=sharing

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    This is what the choke cable looks like, similar to Z and Roadster styles but without the swedged cable ends shown. Nissan #18410-H2302 is NLA, but cables can be found on ebay, google and elsewhere as well as discussions for adapting other cables, like here:
    https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/bluebird510/choke$20cable|sort:date/bluebird510/DwdAB7Wvg8M/oRTXQHs1WXkJ

     

    choke.jpg

    Edited by NVZEE

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    2 hours ago, 240260280 said:

    Good Talking.

    Attached is SSS carb manual excerpt.   Apparently there are plastic replacements for those brass floats.

    You are the man! Went back down there and took the nozzle out and piston slides as it should. 19mm wrench to loose the nozzle holder. Put a philips down in the piston to hold it to the bottom. Thread the mixture nut all the way up. Center everything up and tighten the nozzle holder lock nut. Works like  champ now!!! :beer: Got a beer waiting on you in Atlanta!!!

    1 hour ago, NVZEE said:

    I second the vote for needle/nozzle adjustment issue. Since you've already loosened the needles, suggest you CAREFULLY remove one and see how the piston action is. This should narrow things down quickly.

    You are correct and the links are great! I already put some possibilities in my watch list. May actually go with the TR6 choke cable because it's reasonably priced. As a side note where exactly is the choke cable supposed to mount?

    • Like 1

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    If you're wondering about the handle end of the cable, it mounts on an L bracket to the right of the steering column:

     

    choke.jpg

    Edited by NVZEE

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    9 hours ago, NVZEE said:

    If you're wondering about the handle end of the cable, it mounts on an L bracket to the right of the steering column:

     

    choke.jpg

    Will that interfere with the under dash AC vents? We have one we plan on installing.

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    Don't know about the AC. You could probably find enough flex in the choke cables to clear with the handle but the bracket might need modification.

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    9 hours ago, NVZEE said:

    Don't know about the AC. You could probably find enough flex in the choke cables to clear with the handle but the bracket might need modification.

    Thanks. I will work on it...

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    This is how they sit at the moment. Plated all the hardware and polished the overflow tubes. They will need some straightening. The buffer took them away from me  a couple of times. :blush:

    20171230_184046.jpg20171230_184115.jpg

    Sourced the heat shield from Z therapy and a few other parts. I am still missing a few things. Throttle return springs and the hex head screws for the choke cable ends...

    If I set the float heights, I think they would be ready to go on. Don't know if I have what I need for linkage...

    • Like 2

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    @240260280

    Blue,

    I know you posted the float bowl needle dimensions for these carbs somewhere recently but I can't find it...

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    56 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

    This doc?

    HJL38W.pdf

    I don't know, does page 5 apply to sss type carbs? The floats in Cody's carbs are loose from the tab mechanism. We are trying to get his car running again...

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    Dual SU's are a distinguishing feature of the SSS model -- Super Sport Sedan -- so if you have 510 SU's they're SSS carbs.

    But that isn't to say other SU variants aren't adapted. 510 owners are notoriously resourceful ;)

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    Ok...the carbs are on Cody's car. We have done some preliminary tuning. It's drive-able but not perfect yet. Seems pretty rich. I am only 3/4 turns down on the mixture nuts. I set the floats at 11mm plus like Blues document had. Also I am looking at Ramflo for filters but can't figure out which one is right. Does the H1, H2 or H4 fit the Datsun 38mm carb?????

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