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Rear spindle removal


joe newsom

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There has been discussion about spindle pin pulling devices in the past and my belief is that if the pin can be pulled with a device like that, then it really wasn't that stuck in the first place.

I don't think it is possible to design a spindle pin pulling device that will work on all of them. At some point if you just make the tool even beefier, you'll simply pull the threaded end off the pin.

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If you're buying a commercially available tool, I absolutely agree. But that wasn't my point.

My point is that the people who are making and selling these tools are kidding themselves (and their customers). I've worked on pins like you and wheeezie and no puller device was going to get that sucker out of there. No way, no how. Heat, oil, and more pressure was the only way. The unbreakable beefiest puller would have just pulled the nub off.

And if the pin is NOT stuck so bad that heat, oil, and more pressure is the only way, then you don't need a puller at all. A couple washers, a couple nuts, and some taps on a nut on the other end will get it out. That's my theory and I'm stickin to it!   LOL

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When I was removing mine I found that spinning the pin, and moving it back and forth in the bore, helped.  I think that the rust and grit and metal shavings get jammed and the movement lets those particles find a new place and release the bind.  Also distributes the lubricant up and down the bore.  I used an old mag wheel lug nut on the end for spinning and also hammering.  Same thread size.

I also tore the end off of a pin but I think my fixture got misaligned.  And heat cannot be neglected.  Gotta have heat.

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Here is my puller. I bought it from some one many years ago. He was making them for forum members. Might have been on Hybrid Z

20180123_191734[1].jpg20180123_191749[1].jpg

The all thread is 1" hardened rod. With a bearing to help with friction

I haven't found one I couldn't pull yet. Even the ones I just separated that have been sitting outside for the last six years. I use wrenches to turn it so if it gets too difficult I fall back to heat and penetrating oils. I could see pulling the end off one being possible with this tool

8 hours ago, Travel'n Man said:

I am installing coilovers in the next couple weeks. I installed new spindle pins a couple years ago and really hoping I put anti-seize on them! Keeping my fingers crossed for easy out and easy in
 

Mitchell,

Let me know if you need a loaner

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No spindle pin is needed. Just use a Grade 10 bolt, coated with anti-seize, and throw that locking pin away.

I use a sawall to cut between the RCA and strut ends then have the 5 inches or so of the old spindle pin pressed out.

I like a free swinging, non-binding suspension.

 

Edited by gnosez
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Wow! So then it seems you didn't read the second paragraph about cutting the pin and pushing out what remains in the strut as something related to removing "old" spindle pins.

Whether one installs a new spindle pin or a bolt is a personal matter.

Read for speed and comprehension, my teacher always said.

Edited by gnosez
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Seemed like you're just implying that people are wasting their time trying to save a spindle pin.  The post had some "troll" to it.

The spindle pin is designed, I think, so that if the nuts come loose the suspension won't fall apart.  The pin is locked in place.  So a bolt might be cheap and easy but it makes the car less safe.  There are lots of cheap and easy things we can do to our cars.  Cheap and easy is a personal choice, of course.

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