Automatic Conversion

[HuD 91gt]

^ That's a definite possibilty.

[joe newsom]

Kind of thought the passenger side harness was that ?


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[joe newsom]

Not really sure to upload photos anymore


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[zKars]

I believe there is wiring that goes to the console auto shifter mechanism as a "park" or "Neutral" indicator switch of some sort? Or lighting in the shifter housing so you can see where it's set at night?  Or to the kick down solenoid?  You can tell I've had a lot of auto Z's....

[joe newsom]

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[David F]

I started my auto to manual conversion on my 72 this past weekend.  Got the auto removed and the manual installed...still need to connect all the ancillary stuff.  To address or confirm some of the stuff in above posts (as I remember them).  the passenger side auto wiring is for neutral/park safety switch and backup lights.  Drivers side wiring is for kick-down solenoid (not needed with manual trans).  Neutral safety wiring gets connected together and backup light goes to switch in manual trans.  I am using a '79 280zx five speed with a 9" flywheel and clutch (in lieu of 8-7/8").

The automatics had extra sheet metal spot welded to the bottom side of the normal (manual) shifter opening.  Simply follow the original hole outline to trim away the metal that is no longer needed (at front end of hole).  Dimples are in the sheet metal that corresponds with the holes in the shift boot retaining ring.  I chose to drill and tap (for 4mm x .70 machine screws) the doubled up sheet metal rather than using sheet metal screws (hard to get through double layer of metal).

240z master cylinder and slave are installed...used 240z slave to hopefully ensure proper clutch fork throw.  A 240z master cylinder is mandatory as the 280zx master has the mounting ears in the wrong position.  Hydraulic line is bent and installed in original rubber clamps along with brake and fuel line (simply drilled additional holes in rubber clamp blocks).  Clutch and brake pedals are installed.

To finish:  Install shift lever and rubber boots.  Install console with shift gator.  Install transmission mount and support (trans still supported with jack as I am waiting on new transmission mount).  Bleed MC/slave.  Install starter motor (I hear the automatic starter will work with manuals).  Connect wiring.  Replace driveshaft u-joints and install drive shaft.  One u-joint is notchy.  Smile.

Things that have me puzzled.  One bell housing bolt is longer than the other three and it took some investigation time to figure out where it went...I determined (hopefully correctly) that it went on drivers side lower.  The automatics do not have the clutch pedal travel limit stop welded to the the floor board/firewall.  Is this needed?

Should have the trans all buttoned up by end of this coming weekend.

Edited December 5, 2017 by David F

[zKars]

Great write up David.

I'll mention here that the hardline length is nearly exactly 53 inches from flare to flare. In case you need to make one.  I just measured a stock one I pulled from a 73. Since the auto cars don't have the spot welded on bracket on the frame rail where it meets the softline over to the slave, there some "error" there that you can compensate for pretty easily if you don't get it exactly the right shape on the way over. 

The clutch pedal stop absence is a little considered but very good point. Seems like a poor idea to force the master to hit it's internal stops. Life shortener? That said, I don't know if anyone has ever reported a problem related directly to this. 

[David F]

As far as the pedal travel limit stop, I think it will be an issue that will need to be addressed.  I am anticipating that I will want a positive stop so the clutch engagement is always the same distance from the floor repeatedly.  And, so I can slam the clutch to the floor without worry about bending or breaking anything related to the master cylinder and/or push rod/clevis.  My thought is to use a hood stop bumper drilled and mounted through the floor with a few heavy (fender?) washers sandwiching the floorboard for stability.  the hood bumper stop should be large enough to not worry about the pedal arm missing the target and adjustable as well.

We shall see.

[Diseazd]

5 hours ago, zKars said:

Great write up David.

I'll mention here that the hardline length is nearly exactly 53 inches from flare to flare. In case you need to make one.  I just measured a stock one I pulled from a 73. Since the auto cars don't have the spot welded on bracket on the frame rail where it meets the softline over to the slave, there some "error" there that you can compensate for pretty easily if you don't get it exactly the right shape on the way over. 

The clutch pedal stop absence is a little considered but very good point. Seems like a poor idea to force the master to hit it's internal stops. Life shortener? That said, I don't know if anyone has ever reported a problem related directly to this. 

I'm pretty sure Zcar Depot sells the clutch hard lines.  BTW....I hope you installed the brass bushing in the rear of the crank for the tranny output shaft. The auto cars didn't have one installed. I didn't install a pedal stop on either of my two auto conversions....no problem. You do need to check pedal play distance....can't recall what that was....somewhere between 7 and 8 inches if I recall.

[David F]

Yep, new pilot bushing installed.  I say "new" because there was one already installed.  The engine is not original to the car, so obviously from a manual trans donor.  What I cannot understand is how the torque converter pilot engaged the crank with a bushing in place.  Some of the repairs done by PO or mechanics were of questionable quality.   So, I would not be surprised that someone "turned down" the TC pilot to fit the manual trans pilot bushing.

Fabricating a new clutch hard line was simple enough and took maybe an hour.  I purchased a 60" line from my FLAP store with the proper flare and nut size and then cut and re-flared to the final length when all bends were finalized.

Hopefully this conversation is helpful to the OP, Joe, and giving him good information...I sorta feel like I am hijacking his thread.

Edited December 5, 2017 by David F

[joe newsom]

This info is very helpful thank you


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[lonetreesteve]

Back in 2013 my Type A 4-speed bit the dust on my '71 240Z.  Luckily I had a low-mileage Type B 4-speed in my garage and I had a shop install it for me.  However, the shop did not reinstall the console and told me that I needed to make some modifications to the console in order for it to shift correctly.  I did some research on this site,  I cut out just a little bit of metal on the top end of the hole and I had my body & paint guy modify the shifter for me. I installed the modified shifter and it worked great and I didn't need to do any modifications to the console.  Below are some pictures.