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Dave WM

1977 OE hitachi radio MOUNTS

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I am piecing together an OE stereo radio for my Z I have the radio and the METAL face plate, the plastic face plate is on the way. I have a switch I hope to get locally, really only need to source the mounts that bolt to the radio. I have the U shaped mount that attaches to the console. I did not want to piece this all together but seem the only way to get a complete radio with out spending a fortune on it.

here is what I am looking for. one is a simple bracket for just the radio, the other mount to the radio and provides a mount for the antenna switch.

 

correct 2501b 1.jpg

correct 2501b.jpg

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how good are you at fabrication? To make up a crude set wouldn't be that difficult.  If you don't want to do that then, i'de suggest buying one of those $150'ish 280 radio's on ebay and rob it for the mounts and put it back on for the same price you bought it for LOL Maybe clean it up a bit and offer SANE shipping costs.  Some are crusted with dirt and body oil ack... 

 Most people sell those with the radio's unfortunately.

 

Edited by hr369

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Dave, you da man. I put in the 2 diodes and a 222 mylar (0.0022)  from my old hitachi radio graveyard and auto tune came to life

Now all i gotta do is track down some Steppenwolf and Deep purple 8 tracks and I'll be rocking out 70's style.

 

 

https://youtu.be/koRaDwKz8yk

keyword: cst-2000zd cst2000zd  if anyone needs to repair their auto tune circuit on their jdm 8 track.

IMG_4997.PNG

Edited by hr369

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Oh cool! It was getting late and I had checked out before you got there. If there is still no signal getting thru for it to lock on to, I would suggest signal tracing. Hard to do with no schematic but you could just start a the coil/tuning cap and go from base to collecter of each transistor that seems to be in the path and see where it drops out. You will need to start by tuning in a strong local channel for the tuning tank circuit to pickup.

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8 hours ago, Dave WM said:

Oh cool! It was getting late and I had checked out before you got there. If there is still no signal getting thru for it to lock on to, I would suggest signal tracing. Hard to do with no schematic but you could just start a the coil/tuning cap and go from base to collecter of each transistor that seems to be in the path and see where it drops out. You will need to start by tuning in a strong local channel for the tuning tank circuit to pickup.

I didn't have an antenna attached is the reason it didn't lock onto anything.  I wanted it to do continuous scanning because this thing has probably been sitting 20+ years and there are A LOT of gears that turn when its scanning.  I also faked an 8 track tape being inside and the motor turns and it changes tracks like it should.  I had it on for quite a while and if the function of that cap is to filter out the current from the signal pulse, shouldn't that cap be getting a little warm from filtering out the 8 volts?  It's not warm at all.

 

Edited by hr369

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not sure about it getting warm or not. Generally speaking I would expect not. Glad to hear its working, that auto tuning is a trip.

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15 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

not sure about it getting warm or not. Generally speaking I would expect not. Glad to hear its working, that auto tuning is a trip.

The legs that hitachi put on most of the components is a strange design and they're a bear to try to solder to. I ended up just removed them and soldered the components directly to the board.

This thing is built like a brick sh!thouse. Weighs a ton. 

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 Comparing an earlier one to a later i've noticed differences in the radio pcb.  On the older radio there is a 472 green mylar whereas on the newer one (mine) there is none.

Could this be the mystery cap? On the older radio there is no pad or wires (lower left hand corner)  for the auto tune circuit.  Top picture is older radio

bottom picture is newer radio (mine)

hitachi-8-track.jpg

newer-model.JPG

Edited by hr369

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if you are really skilled with 8 tracks you would develop the sharp tug and get it to suck back into the case after one was eaten and pulled out an extra foot from the case. Just smooth out the wrinkles and a sharp tug, watch is spool back in. Ah those were the days of try high fidelity.

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I have 2 sets of 260z mounts that could also be modified to fit the later radio but it's a bit of work. 

Got an electrical harness for it yet? You could probably use a 78 radio harness on it.

 

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This tape is over 40 years old but still doesn't sound half bad. There is a hack to make you own mp3 adapter.

 

 

 

hacked.jpg

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I am almost there, looking to Blue for a faceplate, and a local to me member for the switch. I just installed the mounts, and the metal face plate that backs up the plastic. I made up a harness adapter that takes the 6 pin 75 plug and adapts to the larger plugs used on the 2501-B. Will be a simple matter to hook up.

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Dave, we got it wrong!  Even though it says "C9" ,the designation for a capacitor, on the board and does NOT have the symbol for diode like all the other diodes that are identical, there is a diode in this spot!

Alan snapped a picture of his hitachi and its shows one of those identical brown ceramic diodes in this spot.

 

fc5fbd146095b6fe754b6c8e630810c4.jpg

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very odd. Now the big question, is the red lead the cathode or is the brown banded side the cathode? If he can you should get a reading with a diode checker each way and see if you can simulate it with a 1N4001. perhaps the C9 was the smaller electrolytic cap, C14 the big one.

I would have thought the brown side would be the cathode marking.

 

Edited by Dave WM

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Cant find anything like that. Look at the bottom of the pcb and see if trace one of the lead back to the electro cap, see what polarity its marked.

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All the other diodes have the diode symbol printed on the circuit board and the red band is the cathode side on them. 

IMG_5014.JPG

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