240Z Resto - 01/1970 Car

[scarguy055]

The restore looks great!

On post #89, it looks lke the transmission tunnel is black instead of body color. Is that original or would it typically be body color?

[EuroDat]

Im with ya now. The two I have for a 280Z look very much like the plugs have silver zinc plating. The bolt and spacer washer is yellow zinc. I dont know if Nabco would have changed the process over the years.

[Careless]

The restore looks great!

On post #89, it looks lke the transmission tunnel is black instead of body color. Is that original or would it typically be body color?

 

To be fair, the body work that was done on the car was excellent, except for a couple of bolts that they did not extract before painting the chassis. The quality of the body work is exceptional, and was done by another restoration shop before I started to work on the vehicle.

 

It may have to be body colour, but that is something that I don't think I could change, even if I wanted to. I thought about that too- but in the end, It's something that will just have to do for now!

[Careless]

ughhhhhhh so many finishes that i have no reference for.

 

hubs... to plate, or not to plate?

 

 

MSA reconditions them and plates them, but the ones I have here are painted black. Not sure if I should strip, bead blast, and plate. Will be clear zinc plating the rotors so they dont rust, but the hubs will probably never been seen.

[Careless]

Sorry, been MIA here! Back with some textual updates:

 

 

Dear Diary, 

 

Recently received and organized/bagged 1000+ plated fasteners and hardware.

 

I was finding that fastener and hardware store bought washers, lock washers, and odds and ends were just really shitty and looked terribly ugly. I went shopping for a bunch of washers locally everywhere, and the ones they had were all cheaply produced. I even ordered a small quantity online from two sources, and the photos were not indicative of the item I received. Most have a knurled outside edge that looks really ugly, or the lock thickness was thinner or oddly round shaped as opposed to the distinct and well defined square stock shape of the Datsun ones. I know I'm just splitting hairs here, but even the way they sit under the bolt head was just making me hate using them if they were visible. There are also some Datsun lock washers that are distinctly fatter than the common ones, and those are uncommon and hard to find/search for- and you get weird looks asking for them at hardware stores- even if  you bring a sample and tell them "No, I'm sure this isn't Imperial/Standard size of some sort. I know where it came from"

 

 The factory ones are easily identifiable in my eyes (and I'm legally blind in one eye!... so I've got a 50% chance of pointing it out if you need some help  ).

 

Also, the plating on almost every single one was flat clear zinc. No chromate to them. No yellow ones that looked decent. 

 

I decided to just dump the entire box of old washers, nuts, locks, and odds and ends into the tumbler after attempting to sort them. It was kind of an "ahhhhh f*ck it" moment where I figured I would sort them out later. So I had them all cleaned and all plated along with plenty of other brake/suspension hardware bits, and I received a bunch of parts from the dealer that will allow me to install the engine after I assemble them, and after I drill out a painted-over broken bolt for one of the brake line brackets on the firewall of the freshly painted chassis. BOOOOOOOO!!!! So far that makes 3 bolts that were just ... swept under the rug. Small issues, though. The rest of the work done on the body prior to me working on it is outstanding, so all I can hope for is that I don't chip or scratch the finish trying to extract this bolt. It's a visible one on the drivers side of the firewall just below the steering column exit hole.

 

 

I'll be assembling some of the parts and complex items that have been long separated from their hardware, awaiting plating finishes in order to be put back together. Then I can reclaim some of my garage space in doing so, and then on to cleaning up interior pieces. Also got my engine-lift leveller, so I'll be carefully nestling the motor in some shipping blankets while I lift it off the engine stand to avoid scratches and disasters. 

 

 

 

Pics to follow!

Edited December 22, 2015 by Careless

[Consigli]

That engine is just gorgeous. It belongs in the Louvre!

Edited December 22, 2015 by Consigli

[Careless]

On 12/22/2015 at 2:46 AM, Consigli said:

That engine is just gorgeous. It belongs in the Louvre!

Thanks Consigli! <3

 

Funny thing about that engine. Took it off the engine stand and put it on a dolly today so I could install the Drivetrain parts.

Well whattaya know! The Part Number that supercedes all other Clutch Disc part numbers is bogus, and is the wrong disc.

C0100-22500 does not work with the factory pressure plate. The design of the protruding hub that holds the springs as well as the rivets that holds the assembly together touches the 3 flat spots in the center of the part of the pressure plate were the hub sits... each flat has 2 rivets to hold the diaphragm to the friction surface plate together.

Quite a set back now, as I was hoping to have the engine in tomorrow.  

I had initially found the superceded number through my dealer software, and today I verified that it is indeed the last number on the supercesion chain. But I can't return it because it's special order? Thaaaaaaanks Nissan. Y U GOTTA PLAY ME LIKE DAT?

 

Anyone have any insight into this? I was hoping to show you guys the engine in the car this week but that doesn't look likely- unless I find a disc somewhere.

 

Edited January 11, 2016 by Careless

[Zed Head]

What's the pressure plate number?  Just for reference.  And, maybe, at least, you can get the right pressure plate for the odd disc and have a set.

We all like pictures too, if you have them.

[Zed Head]

Odd - http://www.partsbase.org/parts/nissan-c010022500/

 

[Careless]

3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Odd - http://www.partsbase.org/parts/nissan-c010022500/

 

yes, it is from a Stanza, but I confirmed with the dealer that it is the number that the latest 240Z one eventually supersedes to.

3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

What's the pressure plate number?  Just for reference.  And, maybe, at least, you can get the right pressure plate for the odd disc and have a set.

We all like pictures too, if you have them.

The pressure plate is the OEM 240Z one. The disc is from Nissan made by Valeo. I will have to take photos of the assembly tomorrow, but it's quite difficult to take photos of the contact area because I have to peep through a tiny slot to get a good visual on where it's hitting.

[grannyknot]

Oh no, I have a brand new clutch kit sitting on the shelf waiting to go in, I guess I better pull it down and start do some test fitment, thank for the heads up.

Chris

[Careless]

Hey Chris,

If you have a clutch kit, you should be ok. They come with the pressure plate and disc (some with flywheel too), so they will be matched and operate without this hub contact issue.

I believe this has something to do with the two different styles of OEM pressure plates offered... I'm not sure why there are different pressure plates for the 2 Seater and 2+2- but perhaps I spec'd out the wrong disc? 

In any case, I have a friend who has an SR20 clutch disc and pressure plate that I am going to look at. If his pressure plate can accept this disc, and the 240z pressure plate can accept the SR20 disc- I will see if he's willing to trade.

Kinda sucks... this disc is 125+ dollars :-/