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Trying To Figure Out How Much To Ask For My Z


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I am looking to sell my 1971 240Z but am having a hard time coming up with an asking price.  I've stopped paying attention for a long time to what is selling.  I've had the car here in Arizona since around 2005.  I hope you guys might have some advice.


First, here’s the story of the car as I know it:


I bought it around 2005 from an ad online for around $4,500 sight unseen from a guy in Chicago.  The car was built in late 1970 but is a model year 1971 240z.  Once I got the car I set out to find out when it was made using the VIN numbers.  The car had one VIN inside the door jamb and another different one inside the engine compartment which is HLS30-14160.  I can no longer find the VIN that was in the door jamb because the Arizona licensing inspectors removed it and replaced it with a new state issued VIN but I remember it was a very low VIN number.  This means the car is obviously not an original numbers matching car.  It was put together from two cars at some point a long time ago.  It also failed the Arizona emissions inspections and has a permanent emissions waiver in AZ.


Here are the issues with it now from what I remember:


  1. The gas tank leaks if filled over halfway and the device that sends the fuel level to the gas gauge doesn’t work.  I have a replacement gauge to be installed but the tank really needs to be pulled, boiled, sealed, and new fuel hoses put in (along with the new gas level sender)
  2. The car won’t start now and fuel isn’t getting to the engine.  This is either an obstruction from the old tank and hoses, or a faulty fuel pump.  I haven’t figured it out
  3. The brakes are squishy and it loses brake fluid slowly.  I think the brakes need to be bled and possibly a leaky brake like replaced
  4. The parking brake doesn’t work.  That cable will need to be replaced
  5. The turn signals work sometimes, but usually don’t.  I haven’t figured out that one
  6. I replaced the cover to the heating controls and to do so had to take apart the wires that connect the heater controls to the internal mechanism that opens the vents, etc.  I have all the parts but it needs to be put back together
  7. I have the original AM radio installed in the dash (I spent $250 to get that) but it’s not connected or working

I also spent $900 to get the carbs balanced and synced, had a valve adjustment, replaced front rotors, pads, and brake hardware, new shocks and springs.  The paint is solid but not original.  Next to zero rust anywhere which is huge for one of these. 



Here’s the list of parts I replaced




RH Armrest

Dash Protector Carpet

Air Filter

Outer Shift boot










New Carpet

Shift Knob

Map Light

Map light frame

Heater Control Panel

Center wheel caps with Z logos

Spark Plugs

Steering Wheel and knob

Heater Control Knobs

door lock knobs

plug wires

sill plates

kick plates

Gas tank flap

gas door bumpers

9 new emblems installed

front bumper rubber

rear bumper rubber

new points

Original AM radio

Thermostat housing

Thermostat top

Front rotors

Front brake pads and hardware kit

Hood adjustable bumpers

Hood bumper side

Cowl to hood seal

Rubber bumper inspection lid

Hatch dovetails

Hatch stopper assemblys

Hatch side rails rubber bumpers

Accelerator/clutch/brake pedal pads

Ignition Coil

All brake light bulbs

Engine compartment light

Metal wiper blade holders with blades

Door rubber bumpers

Braided PCV hose

PCV Valve

Fuel filter

New floor plugs

Braided PCV breather hose

Ignition Coil Resistor

New SU's

Original Radiator hose clamps

All hatch weatherstripping

All rubber fuel lines

Top and bottom radiator hoses

Water outlet connector

3 way water pipe

heater hoses

firewall grommets for heater hoses

Master vac valve

Rear water outlet connector

Steering column coupling bushing

Distributor cap

Distributor points, rotor



New battery Dec 2014


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What is the VIN on the firewall?

You need to post pictures, especially of underneath the car to get more than wild guesses.


Running will increase the value, as well as fixing the known issues. (I state it only because it's not obvious to some people.)


I have a guide to repairing the turn signal switch on my blog. I also have a detailed write-up on the entire circuit there.


I would inspect the master cylinder and brake booster for the leaking, especially if there isn't a puddle of brake fluid underneath the car.


For the lack of fuel, try replacing the fuel filter and blowing out the line to back to the tank with some compressed air. Keep the pressure low on the compressed air. It shouldn't take too much effort.

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You've got issues with the gas tank?  I would use a gas can in front of the radiator and put the fuel lines into that and try and get it running.  That's what I did when i first bought mine (thanks Jeff78) and drove around the block to see if the drivetrain was any good.  It'll be a big difference in asking price vs selling price if it runs and drives, like SteveJ said above.  I got mine for less than half his asking price because he wouldn't spend the time to get it running.  Your call.   :)  

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HLS30-14160 is stamped in the firewall? And that matches the plate in the engine room? If the door jam had a different number then you should pull up the carpets and look under the car to see if it's been spliced together with another car. If so it should also have a reconstructed title. If it's been pieced together with back half of another Z then that'll really hurt the value. Lot's of "ifs" there.


Best case scenerio is that a PO removed the door plate when he was restoring the car and accidentally installed the wrong one. I know that I'm reaching but I'm trying to be positive.


Pictures would help us determine the value. I'd fix all 7 issues before selling it. They shouldn't be too hard or expensive to fix but dropping the tank is always a challenge due to dirt and dry/brittle fuel line.



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Very true, Dennis. In California & Arizona, a "rust-free" example not running is worth far less than a similar car in the East or Mid-West.

With all the other issues (not running, salvage title, can't pass SMOG, etc.), I'd also question the "rust free" claim on a 44 year old car from Chicago. Looking at the value/cost of all the replaced parts and seals that are listed, getting it running is the only way to recoup any of of the money that's been poured onto it, other than parting it out. That should be job #1 at this point.


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Thanks folks.  Yes, 14160 is firewall stamped.  I just dug through my files and found the VIN that was on the door when I bought it:  HLS30-0003137.  The Arizona DMV took the car into their secret inspection garage when I was getting it titled, presumably to inspect it for stolen stuff.  It passed that but they removed the door VIN plate and replaced it with a state issued VIN.  I've been under the car plenty and didn't notice any obvious splicing.


Regarding pictures I've got plenty in my gallery:  http://www.classiczcars.com/user/9108-ddezso/.  Admittedly old and some that document the work but it's not deteriorated visually from here.


I think I'd like to get the repairs done and am ill equipped to do them.  Does anyone here know of a good place in the Phoenix area that can do proper work on these cars like I need on my fuel tank?

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Sakura Garage near the 101 and 202 in Tempe, has great experience with Zs and other Datsuns.  Chuck Sheen and his son Greg run it and though they focus more on body work and paint, they know Zs well enough to work on many other areas as well.  


Contact info:

Sakura Garage

1985 E 5th Street #18
Tempe, Az 85281

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