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Quiet 4Psi Electric Fuel Pump


grannyknot

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  • 2 months later...

I have an RX7 pump too and I just tried running it and got a very low, inconsistent flow of fuel. It doesnt even register on the gauge. Steve, did you use the supplied filter that came with it or just cut it off? Maybe thats my problem.

 

EDIT: found my problem, needed more than 3 gallons in the tank.  :rolleyes:

Edited by HaZmatt
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It seems that the Mallory 4070 (4PSI) and 4110 (7 PSI) pumps are recommended for how quiet they are. Figured its recommended to run the Holley fuel pressure regulator with these units also. They are pricey though, and summit has a couple negative reviews regarding their dependability. I would like to find a quiet pump under 100 dollars also. 

Edited by nismospek
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This is what I ended up with, http://www.fuelpumpu.com/vehicle-search.aspx#

2.5-4psi, mine measured out at a solid 3psi and that is better then what I had, hopefully I can finish the 1/4 mile this coming season.

Chris

 

Electric Fuel Pump E8016S
Attributes Type Solenoid Volts 12 Inlet Type Strainer Outlet Size 5/16 in. Outlet Type Hose Bead GPH (Free Flow) 30 Max Pump PSI (Not System) 2.5-4.5 UPC 080044089940 Edited by grannyknot
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not to hijack, but what is the advantage of an electric fuel pump vs. the mechanical one? 

i've read that the stock mech. pump will happily feed a carbed L28, it makes no noise in the cabin and i like the simplicity of less wiring, fuses, relays, etc.

 

reason i ask is i was planning on going this route on the F54/P79 that i'm building - any input would be greatly appreciated...

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not to hijack, but what is the advantage of an electric fuel pump vs. the mechanical one? 

i've read that the stock mech. pump will happily feed a carbed L28, it makes no noise in the cabin and i like the simplicity of less wiring, fuses, relays, etc.

 

reason i ask is i was planning on going this route on the F54/P79 that i'm building - any input would be greatly appreciated...

My Z came with the mechanical fuel pump already blocked off. From what I hear, especially in hotter parts of the nation is that the car can be susceptible to vapor lock due to the fuel and lines being right by the engine. If  you run the a electrical fuel pump, you can run a fuel line by the firewall to the carbs helping to reduce the amount of heat on the lines. 

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I changed to an electric pump for a few minor reasons, they are cheap, reliable, offer consistent flow,

I wanted to change the route of the fuel line so it wasn't taking a tour of the engine bay. Now it comes out of the trans tunnel, straight up the firewall and dead heads into the carbs. I eliminated the return line altogether, also there is parasitic power loss from a mechanical pump, granted it's not much but all of these

items together were enough reason for me.

Chris

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 I like Chris's idea of re-routing the lines direct to the carbs when going elec, but I think heat is more of an issue with FI than SUs. 20+ years as a DD w/ stock set-up, my 71 didn't experience any temperature  related problems in the fuel system. Many Summer days over 100`f. As far as parasitic power loss from a mechanical pump, you'll find a lot more loss in the engine cooling fan. But that is another topic.

Mark

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